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Clunk / Rattle Right Rear Suspension

Must_Tang

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Surprise! :shocked: Another thread talking about the clunk/rattle from the rear of these cars.

I've got the BMR CB005, Steeda Jacking Rails, Steeda Billet Shock Mounts, and Steeda non-adj Struts and shocks.

The clunk/rattle - let's say crattle - only happens when the right rear wheel goes over a series of small, sharp bumps. It does not make the noise when taking off from a start, driving over undulations in the road, or taking corners. It comes from the right rear shock area, and at times sounds like it is coming from the trunk.

I've removed the spare tire and jack, checked the tightness of the module that lives behind the passenger side trunk trim, and re-torqued the suspension components.

The car does not have lowering springs


I have also backed off the cradle bolts and re tightened them to make sure the CB005 cups were seated.

Stabilizer bar end links seem ok.

Top shock mount torqued and re-tourqued. Bottom shock bolts re-torqued.

I was under the car yesterday and unbolted the outer toe rod bolt so I could inspect the inner toe rod bearing -these are stock GT toe rods.

The bearing feels smooth when you move the toe rod, UNTIL you jiggle the toe rod up and down quickly - almost simulating the movement of the toe rod when going over small, sharp bumps. When doing this, I can hear and feel the bearing rattle. I'm going to assume this gets louder when under a load. Note: I was careful not to twist the toe rod when jiggling it so it would hit the frame!

I'm also going to assume that the solidness of the Steeda top shock mount is TELEGRAPHING the noise into the car...

So, I went ahead and ordered replacement (PP) toe rods. I should have them in a few days.

I did not want to go with the Steeda or BMR solution; those toe rods have open spherical bearings which to me, is not good here in the Northeast with snow, salt, sand. I've also see various posts about those being noisy as well.

The other threads here don't quite seem to have a common solution for this, and a lot of folks here are just living with the noise...I can't do that :headbonk:

Thoughts??
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jbailer

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I would recommend just starting to inspect all the bushings. Do you have differential bushing inserts? I think you have to look at the IRS as a system. As you start working on one thing, you need to consider what the change will bring about, Energy needs to go somewhere. Maybe as we lock one thing down to solve a problem, it causes additional stress somewhere else.

It's definitely not the only reason but it's certainly one reason I decided to stick with Steeda parts to build my suspension. I certainly don't mean to take this to a vendor discussion just thinking about it as a complete solution.

I also think when we describe "clunks" we tend to generalize while there are probably a combination of drive line clunks more associated with manuals (I believe) and suspension clunks. I also believe that most suspension clunks are a result of improper installations. There are always exceptions and this certainly sounds like one. While none of the parts you've mentioned have been problematic to my knowledge, it could be a combination or the lack of 1 area that needs attention like a bushing that hasn't been visited like the diff inserts?
 
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Must_Tang

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Thanks jbailer.

I did do a thorough inspection with a mirror and flashlight while under the car looking for witness marks. I actually stared at the various bushings for quite a while. You know that is- sometimes these things are not evident at a glance.

It could indeed be a diff bushing, but I think I will try replacing the toe link first before I dig into that. It's tough to pinpoint these sounds as it travels through the components. But it does really sound a bit more "outboard" than a diff bushing noise.

I did also try swapping the Steeda shock mount with the stock one on the right rear. The sound was still there, but much quieter due to the Steeda bushing telegraphing the noise to the body, I think. Steeda shock mount is back on.

I've turned wrenches professionally for 15 years when I was younger. This really sounds like a stabilizer link noise. Early 90's Asian imports used this type of joint, and it sounds like that. But mine are tight.

Again, the sound I was duplicating by shaking the toe rod on its natural axis did have the same tone and timbre of what I am hearing in the car. Just quieter. There really is no way to move it fast enough while loaded to duplicate the frequency and amplitude of going over these small bumps at 10-30 mph.
 
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Must_Tang

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Ah, and the car drive just fine. Nice and tight. No hopping or pulling.
 

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jbailer

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Tracking down something like that, that doesn't come right after an install is tough. It's easy when you make a change because you know where to go and I know what you mean about the bushings. It's nice when you can visibly see one tore up but sometimes they're just wore out and you can't tell at a glance. If you only had a car monkey that could ride under there and watch for it and tell you!

Are you replacing the knuckle to toe link bearings with the toe links? If not, I'd recommend doing that at the same time. It may be that bushing that's the problem anyways. The stock is pretty weak. The FRPP bearing is nice and strong.
 
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Must_Tang

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Not out of the question on the pp control arm bearing. I'd have to pick up a nice c-clamp.
 

jbailer

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Not out of the question on the pp control arm bearing. I'd have to pick up a nice c-clamp.
Not the control arm bearing, I hear all kind of horror stories about installing that, the knuckle to toe link bearing.
 

TNcoupe

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I just had my whole rear suspension off in the last couple weeks and began getting a pop and crack from the back. I put it on ramps today and unbolted the Steeda rear bar and it seemed to be in a helluva bind from having the rear suspension off one side at a time. Will report back if its an improvement.

I did toe link bearings, Steeda adj shocks, new hub/ wheel bearings, and extended wheel studs.
 
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Must_Tang

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Well, toe link and sway bar link did not fix. I'll try swapping the Steeda rear shocks and billet mounts left to right to see if the noise switches sides. PIA.
 

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I have this issue now after installing the steeda diff bushings. The only noise I could find while the car was on a lift being changed from R to D was that the trans yoke had slack on the output shaft causing a clunk when being loaded when switching gears from D to R and vice versa. Its most noticeable when at around 5 mph taping the gas and letting off then the wheels lug the engine back n fourth.
 

jbailer

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I have this issue now after installing the steeda diff bushings. The only noise I could find while the car was on a lift being changed from R to D was that the trans yoke had slack on the output shaft causing a clunk when being loaded when switching gears from D to R and vice versa. Its most noticeable when at around 5 mph taping the gas and letting off then the wheels lug the engine back n fourth.
I believe you're describing a very common drive line problem, different from the suspension problem and one that has plagued a LOT of people. So many people have gone through countless iterations of trying to fix that. Drive shafts, flanges, even transmissions.
 
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Must_Tang

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Problem solved. It is the Steeda billet shock mount rattling.

I switched the shocks left to right, and now the noise is coming from the left rear. When I had the shocks off there is noticeably less tension on the noisy spherical bearing, hence the rattle.

Everything is torqued correctly.

I'll reach out to Steeda on Monday.
 

JRENIGAR

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I believe you're describing a very common drive line problem, different from the suspension problem and one that has plagued a LOT of people. So many people have gone through countless iterations of trying to fix that. Drive shafts, flanges, even transmissions.
So I take it there is no fix and I am just going to have to deal with it then?
 

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Problem solved. It is the Steeda billet shock mount rattling.

I switched the shocks left to right, and now the noise is coming from the left rear. When I had the shocks off there is noticeably less tension on the noisy spherical bearing, hence the rattle.

Everything is torqued correctly.

I'll reach out to Steeda on Monday.
Reach out to Matt Henschke @ 954-960-0774

He will take care of it for you.

I will advise him in the morning.

Thanks Steeda Tech
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