Steeda IRS braces

[K4fxd]

Bought these a few days ago, got an email saying they were out of stock but would ship in 2 to 4 days. While I was waiting I did more searching, seems a lot of people recommend the BMR cradle lock out kit. I started to think I made a mistake.

I got the braces today, ordered on Thursday last week.

I installed them on jack stands. Went for a drive and it is a different car. So far the only mods are the factory front cross member brace and now the Steeda IRS braces. It is like I added stiffer sway bars and springs to both front and rear, the car is flat through tight turns. I did not expect this.

It did loosen the car up some, but is predictable, I can tell when on the edge I couldn't before.

I still feel some movement on high speed sweepers, I believe that is the soft factory bushings.

I would buy again. Thanks Steeda. I'm sure the BMR offering is great also.

OK my question.

Should I keep stiffening the chassis or should I start upgrading bushings. I'm looking at the ford racing 3 point strut tower brace or the Steeda sub frame bushing support system.

Bang for the buck. I'm very limited in my budget, so I can do one thing a month or so up to 250. I want the car to corner as good or better than a C6 Vette.

EDIT

I have a base 17 GT

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[Kermitz]

Steeda makes great products. They develop and race what they sell.
You could throw the entire catalog of parts on your car.
I'd put the extreme g-trac brace, strut tower brace on and go from there.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Strut tower brace should be further down the list than where most people put it.

If this is for a non-PP car, I'd first look into doing the 3 point OE bracing that Ford already did with their PP1 and PP2 packages. I'm talking about the weird kind of U-shaped piece that ties the strut towers into the cowl area instead of directly to each other here, as an individual first step.

The 2-point tower to tower piece can always be added later (it reduces the 'V' part of NVH and reduces cowl shake more than it helps chassis torsional stiffness).


Norm

 

[K4fxd]

I am looking at the Ford kit, it includes the u brace and the tower brace. Is their any advantage to using a Steeda tower brace to the Ford. I can buy the U brace by itself. I am also looking at the cowl brace.

FR3Z-63016A52-A

 

[Norm Peterson]

I doubt there's enough difference among any of the tower to tower bars to really matter. At least not among the ones that DON'T use rod ends anywhere (I suspect that the ones that do use rod ends would be somewhat less effective).


Norm

 

[Schwerin]

I just put on the Extreme G-Trac last weekend. Got the IRS braces to do soon. Cant wait to get off my Winter tires, and get an alignment to really test them out!

 

[brucelinc]

I have the BMR CB005 kit. I am not 100% pleased with it for helping wheel hop. I wonder if replacing the BMR braces (parts in red below) with the Steeda braces would help lock down the cradle a bit better? I would obviously retain the bushing supports that are part of the BMR kit.

 

[SteedaTech]

I have the BMR CB005 kit. I am not 100% pleased with it for helping wheel hop. I wonder if replacing the BMR braces (parts in red below) with the Steeda braces would help lock down the cradle a bit better? I would obviously retain the bushing supports that are part of the BMR kit.

Steeda IRS subframe support braces absolutely compliment any IRS subframe support bushing system.
We have sold thousands of our Patented IRS braces. We use the Steeda IRS support braces and our IRS bushing support system on both our road race and record setting Silver bullet programs.
Steeda Tech

 

[Scooter MGee]

I'm talking about the weird kind of U-shaped piece that ties the strut towers into the cowl area instead of directly to each other here, as an individual first step.

I'm not sure that piece is available separately......is it??

 

[K4fxd]

I've had these braces on since the day they were delivered. I have not tried the BMR piece and see no reason to switch.

When I bolted these on it was surprising how much they stiffened the whole car. It ties the rear subframe to the unit body (Can't think of the right words) or the main part of the car. By themselves, on a non pp car, it flattened out cornering. I became somewhat happy with stock springs and bars. I then added several more frame bracing pieces.

I went down this rabbit hole due to an on ramp that is constant radius and maybe 3/4 mile long. The car felt like the rear was attached with rubber bands. These braces took out about 80% of that rubber band feeling. I need to replace bushings to get the rest of it removed.

 

[Vicr]

The braces are next on my list. I had my speed shop Steeda-ized my IRS and front control arms and bumpsteer kit and a complete 4 wheel alignment compensating for my weight and track use. Holy Sh-t what a difference! NO wheel hop, no weird stuff going into hard corners at 100mph. I’ve heard of BMR parts failing and who needs a suspension part failure at 140?? The suspension now is so tight I may not change sway bars.

 

[K4fxd]

I'm not a Steeda fan boy. Nor do I think BMR are Gods. But what works works.

If you only want to stop rear subframe movement, get the BMR thing.

If you also want to stiffen your chassis, get the Steeda IRS brace.

Sorry, I only see the BMR option as stopping the rear IRS movement. (which is what I wanted)The Steeda unit also improves chassis stiffness. Which I did not anticipate.

 

[Ericc B]

I'm happy with my Steeda braces as well, they do a great job of making the car feel more planted and less wiggly. Depending on your climate you may want to consider having them powdercoated or otherwise rust protected before installing though, because the standard finish blows and shows surface corrosion after just one winter.

 

[Bluemustang]

Focus on the other suspension bushings. Honestly the BMR CB762 by itself does a better job at controlling subframe movement AND improving chassis rigidity.
IMO do the RLCA bearings first. Changing the front control arm bushings out also does a lot for the steering feel and response.

Sorry to say but your Mustang isn't going to touch a C6 Corvette in the corners lol. It has less weight, better weight distribution and a better engineered suspension. Now depending on the driver could you, I suppose so. But same driver no chance. You can however, make your Mustang handle miles and miles better than stock. I have a Base GT and honestly don't even remember what it feels like anymore. If you really want to make it handle great, it's going to take a lot more cash and careful planning. Try to stay away from the marketing aspect of suspension parts. You need to choose the correct spring rates (not just the ones the manufacturer tells you), ride height and dampers, as well bar setup.

Trust me on this one. Re-engineering a suspension is not easy and takes careful planning. Otherwise it will handle worse, or you spend lots of money trying to make it right.

 

[K4fxd]

I just want it to keep up with a C6. I'd have bought a Vett but it is too damn hard to get in and out of it, plus I can drive one any time I want.

Yea, the Mustang disappointed me. Actually my F150 feels better in a high speed constant radius curve.

Does the 762 raise the body up like the CB005?

I have been thinking about trying it, but if it raised the body, that is a deal breaker.

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