Indeed it is. There are plenty of opinions but not all are equally valid.And a few things you don't need: rear swaybar, toe links, and rear springs that are too soft.
Setting up a car well is a systematic approach.
I think what Norm is trying to say is learning how to drive it is more important than improving the parts. Stiffening the suspension makes things happen faster, so when you lose it, it will be with less warning.As far as CB005 and CB762 - what makes them better than the steeda stop the hop kits?
The reason I am still leaning towards a full suspension kit is from reading all of your responses - it comes with all of the parts for much cheaper than buying each of these parts individually. The ford racing kit comes with literally everything. Unless I am missing something this seems like the most cost effective way to upgrade.
Springs I have been looking at are the ford performance ones or the progressive sport ones from Steeda as they include a full kit as well. My goal is for street driving, and possibly the occasional track day for fun.
Norm - you're the first person to recommend not lowering the springs that I've seen. Why so? As for the oversteer situation, I want to be able to take turns faster without spinning out. If you are saying that is an acceleration problem with my foot I'll look there first thank you. In the end I just want to feel more control over the turn.
It's because, first, we're building a street driver. And second because I'm a firm believer in sneaking up on your own best combination. Understand that I didn't say 'never' as far as lowering springs were concerned, only suggesting that you consider waiting until you notice your own reason for doing them (in my own case, that was, specifically, when I started noticing something about nose dive under hard braking on the track).Norm - you're the first person to recommend not lowering the springs that I've seen. Why so?
I think it may be bigger than just your right foot, but I guess that's as good a place as any to start. The #1 operative word especially where hard cornering is concerned is "smooth". As in, ease into all of your steering and pedal inputs instead of trying to make them all-or-nothing step changes (unless you're having to catch a bit of tailhappiness). Patience. Go fast, slowly.As for the oversteer situation, I want to be able to take turns faster without spinning out. If you are saying that is an acceleration problem with my foot I'll look there first thank you. In the end I just want to feel more control over the turn.
Justin, I have a question for you: Do you want a "Kit" for the sake of simplicity, or do you want a suspension close to a GT350? or perhaps a GT350R?Last question.
Hard pass. As mentioned by others earlier, the PP1 dampers are marginally better than the base version. They'd probably be great with the stock springs but they're already at the limit with the PP1 springs (which are all of 6% stiffer if memory serves). They are inadequate with anything beyond that. I wouldn't waste my time installing them if they were free.PP1 struts/shocks.
PP1 shocks/struts are VERY sad. At autocross there are a few stock cars and mine with Koni Yellows at ~2 turns. My car looks much more composed on course.Hard pass. As mentioned by others earlier, the PP1 dampers are marginally better than the base version. They'd probably be great with the stock springs but they're already at the limit with the PP1 springs (which are all of 6% stiffer if memory serves). They are inadequate with anything beyond that. I wouldn't waste my time installing them if they were free.
Understood. But I don't think OP is at the point where bushing deformation is getting in the way that much yet.Norm it is a real issue on the base S550's. On a constant radius turn, anything over 70MPH the rear feels like it is fishtailing. It won't take a set and gives a seat of the pants feeling of the rear washing out.
The IRS braces stopped 90% of this on mine.
Non PP EB = worst bakes in Mustang land.Brakes? Wilwood. But the stockers are more than enough.
This ^^^I think what Norm is trying to say is learning how to drive it is more important than improving the parts. Stiffening the suspension makes things happen faster, so when you lose it, it will be with less warning.
Sometimes you just ask more of the car than it can do. That can happen with poor technique or just plain overdriving. So, while locking things down and stiffening the suspension can improve control, you need to understand that that limit will come faster and you won't feel the gradual roll that the car has in stock form. It feels good when it stays flat but that can lull you into a false sense of security. Its still a machine and has limitations.