Starting on my suspension looking for insights

[eXodium]

Hi all! My name is Justin. New to the forum and new to modding my car, but the journey has been fun so far. For reference here is my car and current mods:

2015 Ford Mustang Ecoboost 2.3L AT non-PP
- cp-e Delta core FMIC
- cp-e hot and cold side pipes with tial BOV
- Airaid modular intake tube
- Cobb Accessport tuner with stage 2 93 octane tune

I've got what I think is about the best bang for buck power upgrades I can get (charge pipes and BOV maybe a little over the top). Looking to get into the suspension next keeping with the bang for my buck type mindset. I've looked at all the major websites and have put together a rough list of everything that COULD go in, now just looking to dial it back in for what I want. My biggest wants with the car are to lower it a bit as well as helping with the oversteer at the rear wheels as I'm just a daily driver not a track boy I don't think I need to go too crazy. Just feel a bit more control when I come out of a turn and press the gas pedal down. Mods I am thinking of:

- Lowering Springs (do I need camber plates?)
- Shocks and struts
- Sway bars
- Front strut tower
- k member
- stop the hop kit from steeda (seems like it could be good, but feedback appreciated)
- toe links

OR just get a FP track handling full suspension with the non-kit products above. Not sure if I need most if any of this stuff so that's why I'm coming to you guys. Thank you for any help!

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[NoVaGT]

Definitely one of the Steeda Stop The Hop kits. I did the starter kit on my 2016 GT PP car, and it was fantastic, along with their horizontal links with poly bushings. I also used their Pro Action adjustable shocks & struts, and they too were beyond awesome.

But I'd sKip their rear shock mounts, as they tend to rattle. Just drill out the stock rear mounts.

That's all I can comment on, that I've had personal experience with.

 

[shogun32]

I'm just a daily driver not a track boy I don't think I need to go too crazy. Just feel a bit more control when I come out of a turn and press the gas pedal down. Mods I am thinking of:

better tires and 9.5" rims (or 10) all around

- Lowering Springs (do I need camber plates?)
- Shocks and struts
- Sway bars
- Front strut tower
- k member
- stop the hop kit from steeda (seems like it could be good, but feedback appreciated)
- toe links

You forgot 4-pot (the standard GT) brakes you can get dirt cheap.
If you lower by 1" or more you want to make DAMN sure your bump stops are cut way the heck short, and you should consider roll-correcting links (Steeda).

After the Stop-the-Hop basics kit which should be non-negotiable #1,
Lethal/BMR Diff bolt upgrade - just use the bushings if you don't feel like using the bolts
200/800'ish springs with 0.5-0.75" drop, definitely no more than 1"
Bilstein or Ford 'Track' dampers
GT/PP sways (or the Ford 'Track' kit)

then re-assess

I think you can get the Ford 'Track' kit without the 'Y'/'X' springs.

 

[eXodium]

Where's a good place to find the breaks?

 

[WildHorse]

Definitely one of the Steeda Stop The Hop kits

Is that even needed for a ecoboost?

Where's a good place to find the breaks?

Brakes? Wilwood. But the stockers are more than enough.

- Lowering Springs (do I need camber plates?)
- Shocks and struts
- Sway bars
- Front strut tower
- k member
- stop the hop kit from steeda (seems like it could be good, but feedback appreciated)
- toe links

You don't need camber plates unless you want a stupid amount of camber
shocks and struts get a used set of GT PP1/2. Shouldn't be that hard to find
sway bars again, get a used set of pp1/2
same with the strut brace
K member.. hmmm you shouldn't need it.
stop the hop ? why ? you having a lot of hop?
toe links there cheap enough so why not.

 

[shogun32]

ebay and here have brakes rather frequently.

 

[Dave TBG]

EBPP/GT brakes are a nice upgrade and can be found pretty cheap.
Skip the stop the hop stuff. There are better solutions out there, take a look at the BMR CB005, less complex and more rigid. Even the CB010 or the Steeda equivalent will get you most of the way there. I went with the CB010 with the plan of adding the CB762 but I'm happy enough with the way it is now that the CB762 is on the back burner.
Do not change springs without upgrading your shocks and struts. The base dampers aren't even adequate for the base springs and the PP1 units are barely adequate for the PP1 springs. PP1 parts are an improvement, albeit a very small one, but most aftermarket springs will absolute require better struts and shocks. It's a "while you're in there" thing.
Sway bars can be done separately at any time. The '18 and newer Ecoboosts seem to come with the same front sway bar that the PP1's get, EBPP gets the rear bar from the GT PP1. The front PP1 bar is OK but it's not really worth the effort, think bigger. If you already have the PP1/EBPP rear bar it may be plenty, the base EB bar could stand an upgrade.
Spring are another story, there are a ton of them to choose from and you haven't given any idea of what you are considering. I would suggest that lowering your car will cause a change in geometry that should be taken into consideration. I'm very happy with Steeda's control arms with roll center correction. A drop of more than 3/4" can make bump steer an issue, Steeda has a good solution for that as well from what I've heard. I'm only 1/2" lower than stock so I skipped it.
There are plenty of options, feel free to include some details about your goals (drag vs road course vs show) and we can give more specific advice. Camber plates may or may not be needed, depending on the other choices you make. I didn't expect to need them but I was wrong, my combination of parts left me with slightly less negative camber than stock.

 

[Logan@Lethal]

I would agree with the 4/6 piston upgraded brakes..

For suspension, CB005/CB762 (CB010 if you want a tad cheaper).

Sway bars do help, but I would advise going with shock/struts/springs/plates (or a coilover setup like Pedders) before doing sway bars.

Toe/camber links always expected for the rear when lowering.. Bolts can only help so much.

 

[Norm Peterson]

... My biggest wants with the car are to lower it a bit as well as helping with the oversteer at the rear wheels

Can you explain how you're getting this oversteer in a little more detail?

The reason I'm asking this is because your car was set up by Ford to understeer, and I suspect that driver exuberance over the increased power is mainly to blame.

as I'm just a daily driver not a track boy I don't think I need to go too crazy. Just feel a bit more control when I come out of a turn and press the gas pedal down.

First responsibility as far as control when exiting a corner on the throttle lies with the driver. Keep your pressing down on the accelerator under control (like, smoother) and less than where the drive tires start losing their ability to keep up IOW, develop better throttle modulation skills.

It doesn't matter that right now you may only see yourself as an average-daily kind of driver; as soon as you start applying more and more of a track technique like hard acceleration coming out of a corner to your daily driving you need to start thinking more like a track rat. I'm afraid that if you don't learn this skill, improving the car will only end up with it letting go at a higher speed when you eventually ask more from it in its modified condition than it can support. And there's a fair chance you wouldn't get as much advance warning as you're getting now.


As far as eventual mods are concerned, go with shocks, struts, and if you insist on lowering the car only a little lowering (I think ideally the least amount of lowering you'd be reasonably happy with). You may eventually want to do sta-bars, but do drive the car a while with only the springs and dampers first.

Truth is, you could do struts, shocks, and bars first and hold the springs off until later. You might be pleasantly surprised at the resulting ride vs handling compromise from bars and dampers alone.

Either way, just do that much and a cradle bushing kit before going any further. Wait until you can personally identify something about the way the car drives that isn't where you want it to be.


Norm

 

[eXodium]

As far as CB005 and CB762 - what makes them better than the steeda stop the hop kits?

The reason I am still leaning towards a full suspension kit is from reading all of your responses - it comes with all of the parts for much cheaper than buying each of these parts individually. The ford racing kit comes with literally everything. Unless I am missing something this seems like the most cost effective way to upgrade.

Springs I have been looking at are the ford performance ones or the progressive sport ones from Steeda as they include a full kit as well. My goal is for street driving, and possibly the occasional track day for fun.

Norm - you're the first person to recommend not lowering the springs that I've seen. Why so? As for the oversteer situation, I want to be able to take turns faster without spinning out. If you are saying that is an acceleration problem with my foot I'll look there first thank you. In the end I just want to feel more control over the turn.

 

[DavidEcobeast]

If you want to be cheap, then look for used PP1 suspension parts or order the Ford Performance street handling package with factory strut tower brace and k member brace.

I have a base Eco and after upgrading the turbo and being tuned for methonal the car was all over the place. I installed the Steeda strut tower brace and g trac brace and for some reason the car started to wonder when doing highway speeds. The car just felt way too soft.

 

[shogun32]

As for the oversteer situation, I want to be able to take turns faster without spinning out.

you're either a grossly ham-fisted driver or your tires are utter crap/over-inflated. Go find a quiet 4-leaf interchange and drive faster and faster till you find the limit. If the rear really does let go first, and you're not a twat at the throttle there's likely something wrong with your car.

PP1 suspension is NOT something you want to pay money for. Hell, I wouldn't install it even if it was free. 'Track' shocks or aftermarket - don't waste your time.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

The ford racing kit comes with literally everything.

And a few things you don't need: rear swaybar, toe links, and rear springs that are too soft.

Setting up a car well is a systematic approach.

 

[eXodium]

So this is what I've gathered so far:

Start with BMR CB005 (possibly with Steeda 555 4447)
*Maybe get BMR CB762
*Maybe get neither and go with Steeda 555 4455

Shocks/Struts/Springs/Camber plates - thinking Steeda 555 2116 (looking for cheaper if there are better options)
*Still leaning towards the Ford Performance Track pack as it might have more than I need, but I can't see a better price for everything it includes.

Toe Links - thinking Steeda 555 4120 (have some people saying necessary and unnecessary so unsure?)

Then looking into wheel/tire combos when I need to replace the tires. I'll look for better breaking solutions down the line.

Let me know if my mind is getting closer to the finish line. Thanks!

 

[shogun32]

Shocks/Struts/Springs/Camber plates - thinking Steeda 555 2116 (looking for cheaper if there are better options)

This is how low your car will look like with those springs:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showcase/matts-2019-nfg-ecoboost.774/
If you're gonna do those shocks then get the adjustable version.

I have a pile of parts that I took off my EB that I haven't listed yet (Steeda camber, progressive springs, proActive shocks, Steeda stop-the-hop brace, PP1 front toe with bearings, the bearings (new), PP1 lateral arms with air deflectors) so PM me if you want some/all.

Toe Links - thinking Steeda 555 4120 (have some people saying necessary and unnecessary so unsure?)

totally not necessary

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