Starting on my suspension looking for insights

[shogun32]

Last question. If I replace the shocks/struts can I reuse the bolts or is there a kit for this?

There is a kit for it though some of the bolts are re-usable. Search on CJ Pony Parts for the Ford suspension bolt package.
ahh found it.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-strut-shock-hardware-kit-one-time-use-2015-2020/p/HW3336/
or
https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...fastback-ecoboost-gt-2015-2020/p/MFR3FASTENA/

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[K4fxd]

Like Shogun32 said.

Stock the car is not drivable over .5 G because the rear suspension is all over the place and not predictable.

He won't be able to learn how to drive without locking the IRS cradle.

 

[WildHorse]

Non PP EB = worst bakes in Mustang land.

What? What? You want supercar braking performance? Braking, 70–0 mph: 164 ft . That's pretty good on stock tires. Get better tires and it'll scrub off some additional feet.

 

[eXodium]

Thanks for all of your help. I think I'm going to start with the stop the hop kit and some jacking rails and go from there. Make it a progressive project I take in stride.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Like Shogun32 said.

Stock the car is not drivable over .5 G because the rear suspension is all over the place and not predictable.

He won't be able to learn how to drive without locking the IRS cradle.

Actually, I think the value of having "slow hands" would become more apparent with the cradle not restrained as tightly . . . doesn't mean you'd want to keep it there and you'd have gained your own understanding of why you wouldn't.

Own understanding > simply being told


Norm

 

[NightmareMoon]

Like Shogun32 said.

Stock the car is not drivable over .5 G because the rear suspension is all over the place and not predictable.

He won't be able to learn how to drive without locking the IRS cradle.

thats absolutely not true. I drove for 3 years in competition with zero IRS mods and learned/performed fine at Gs up to and above 1.15. IRS mods are nice. An alignment is critical.

 

[K4fxd]

On a base model?
You have bigger Jaholies than me. I think a 1974 Lincoln town car is more stable.

Norm
I now understand what you are saying.

 

[shogun32]

I drove for 3 years in competition with zero IRS mods and learned/performed fine at Gs up to and above 1.15. IRS mods are nice. An alignment is critical.

No doubt. But thru sheer dint of repetition and practice you figured out how to read the rear end in it's stock config. My point is that locking up the iRS immediately conveys a new and 'intuitive' feeling for the rear of the car such that you can short-circuit N years of racing. It by no means confers to the driver the overall experience one gains from said years of practice, however.

Certain cars talk to the driver off the showroom floor. Others are a mess. The Mustang is on the 'mess' end of the spectrum. I'd never driven a Kia Stinger before and was confidently doing things with it with the salesman in the other seat that I would never have attempted in my as-delivered Mustang.

 

[K4fxd]

Mine was so sloppy my limit was around .7

Anything faster and I was afraid I'd spin off into a tree. I suppose advance track might allow higher G's but I don't rely on electronics.

 

[WildHorse]

On a base model?

My base GT is an awesome canyon carver, regularly goes over 1G no problems whatsoever.

 

[NightmareMoon]

On a base model?
You have bigger Jaholies than me. I think a 1974 Lincoln town car is more stable.

Norm
I now understand what you are saying.

Base model IS pretty floppy when cornering. Definitely not confidence inspiring, but that's due to factory springs and shocks more than anything else. It flops over and you hit the bump stops (which is bad) if you drive at the limit. PP1 is better controlled (but still a lot of room for improvement in the damper department if you're driving hard near the limits)

Stock rubber rear suspension bushings (with a proper and accurate alignment) will let the car slowly wiggle when getting wheel spin and accelerating in a straight line, but the wiggle does self-center w/o correction. Coming out of a corner its noticeably busier with the stock parts than if you lock down the rear suspension with bearings and/or braces, but you can still drive the absolute snot out of it. The 15-17 cars are worse than the 18+ cars (Ford made a design change in the rear suspension to help on the '18 refresh, IIRC)

The base model also lacks the Torsen, which is a big help to predictable handling when putting power down in a corner. The base cars without the Torsen are going to be a lot more willing to step out on you, versus the PP car with the Torsen, so that's another difference to consider.

 

[WildHorse]

Ford made a design change in the rear suspension to help on the '18 refresh, IIRC

What change ?

 

[K4fxd]

Wildhorse

Is that on stock rubber?

Same question to the guy who tracks his and pulls 1+G

 

[NightmareMoon]

What change ?

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...and-improved-stabalizer-bar-questions.129257/

 

[WildHorse]

Wildhorse

Is that on stock rubber?

The stock 235/50/18's ? Hell no lol. These are on Firestone firehawks. Overall, tires will undoubtedly the biggest difference over any suspension/brake change. So for me, the base suspension is pretty darn good with some proper tires.

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