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Spun rod bearing..

Burnin4

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F1, I'd give Tim at MPR a call. He can build you a 1000hp short block for $5000'ish (fresh block and crank, diamond pistons, mahle rods, king/clevite bearings, ARP hardware, balanced). Then, I'd send him your heads/cams/front engine pieces. Anytime heads come off a motor they need/should be disassembled, cleaned, resurfaced, with new sprangs and valves, gaskets/studs. I'd let him assemble the entire engine and ship it back to you ($2000'ish). It'll be a sure thang, mine makes 1100'ish on 23psi however anything over 800/13psi is useless on the skreet. MPR engines are sure things, guaranteed.
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moffetts

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One of my friends had (key word) a Whipple 2.9 on his 2012. He also spun a rod bearing and the result was enough damage to warrant swapping out a stock longblock and selling the whole thing. The bits of metal were present enough to nuke his MMR oil pump, too.
 

Excelerater

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Yeah that just isnt true. You realize this is an improved 302 boss engine we have, right? We have their rods, bearings and rod bolts. The largest difference betweem us and a boss is our cobra jet intake cams and 302 boss exhuast cams. Our heads are not cnc ported like the boss. We also have bigger valves slightly and our heads are cast with these valves in mind and stiffer valve springs. The only thing we dont have is their forged pistons, timing chain tensioners, harmonic balancer and intake manifold. Missing those few of things at 7700 wouldnt cause a spun rod bearing. Broken oil pump gear, sure eventually.
It would be great to know for sure what let loose,my money is on a rod bolt
stretching on the dood... Boss302 uses ARP ? And if so what size?

My own car,7200-7300 is my threshold for safety . Im not ready to plunk 10Gs on a new bullet
 

DAVECS1

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Wonder if there is enough harmonics on the oil pump, that it becomes less efficeint or gives up at high RPM? OPGs keep the pump from breaking, but the harmonics are still there. Other than that, my last random failure, I am attributing to a Valvoline oil change, maybe you got some bad oil. As crazy as that sounds. The engine I had fail had been together for 9 years, then on a drive through the country the lifters started rattling, got home and had a flat cam???
 

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HISSMAN

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5w30, to me anyway, seems way weak for a whipple powered coyote. Definitely needs a something like a QUALITY FULL Synthetic 0W40, 5W50, or 20W50.

Also, it is almost always better on these engines to have not quite enough oil over having too much oil... and Valvaline Max life is for high milage (+75K mile) engines. It has a lot of conditioner and what not in it that I would never use in a high performance engine.
 

15dib

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What type of oil is everyone running that is fi?
 
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F1scamp

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I am not sure why you would run 20w/50 with a motor that the bearing clearances were set for 5w/20. I used the oil I use based on info I found here.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Brad penn is pretty far down that list..

I realize I made a typo, I used 5w/20 max life, not 5w/30. I used a quarter of a quart over 8qts, which makes my dipstick read right on the line.
 

HISSMAN

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I am not sure why you would run 20w/50 with a motor that the bearing clearances were set for 5w/20. I used the oil I use based on info I found here.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Brad penn is pretty far down that list..

I realize I made a typo, I used 5w/20 max life, not 5w/30. I used a quarter of a quart over 8qts, which makes my dipstick read right on the line.

5W20 is set by Ford for fuel economy. Anyone that tells you different doesn't know jack..
 

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esacteksab

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turbo50

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Thicker oil will give you better protection especially on a boosted motor that sees more heat, 5w-20 looks like water when it's hot
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