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Splitting roof seams near back window, water leaking into rear quarter panels

Sig556

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Just a side note to those of you without Jacking Rails. If your vehicle is improperly jacked up to change wheels you can get your car body to flex big time. The same is true when using a car lift.
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RazzaRossa

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My car was bought 3/19. Has 900 miles on it, never been washed, always garaged ( I know... drive that p.o.s.). When it is driven, I drive it fairly aggressive, it's my toy. Anyhow, it has the hairline cracks where you guys are seeing them, but are very fine at this point. I'm not going to worry about it until if and when they look like a potential leak problem. Just commenting that sun or elements don't have anything to do with their appearance, it's a poor design, or sealant is inadequate or dries out and shrinks. Hell, they use to use body lead, that $hit didn't shrink or crack, but we all know why they don't use it anymore, progress.
 

HeelToeHero

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Just a side note to those of you without Jacking Rails. If your vehicle is improperly jacked up to change wheels you can get your car body to flex big time. The same is true when using a car lift.
I installed jacking rails before ever lifting the car (except for dealer PPI)
 

Elp_jc

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Me too. Hope that alone would avoid cracks, but doubt it. Entering a steep driveway/strip-mall entrance sideways probably twists the body as much as (if not more than) jacking without jacking rails, no? So we need to install rails, but also avoid twisting the car like that as much as possible. I'm doing both.
 

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I don’t see any cracks in mine yet, but applied some of this using a q tip, as a preventative measure.
 

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raptor17GT

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body shouldn't flex enough in normal usage to split seams. Thats poor indeed but cheers for heads up, will check next time I'm about the car
 

StangTime

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Jacking rails will do jack squat. Rails were the first thing I put on my car as soon as I got it.
This is a compound problem with the paint sealer shrinking, and the paint not being thick enough or flexible enough to accommodate the shrinkage.
 

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IMO, that type of cracking could be considered a manufacturing defect. IF defined as such, may still not be covered under the 5/60 paint and corrosion warranty - UNLESS there is major paint peeling OR there is visible signs of corrosion (ie: surface rust, rust staining or rust bubbles). IF there is definite water intrusion to the interior of the vehicle due to the defect then that should be covered under the 3/36 - don’t even think that would fall under the 5/60 paint warranty.

Good luck with the attempt at getting it fixed. I agree it should be fixed, but Ford’s legal jargon under the Paint Warranty will be the deciding factor as well as how loud you can scream before getting Ford to do what is right.
 

SoFla2016PP

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IMO, that type of cracking could be considered a manufacturing defect. IF defined as such, may still not be covered under the 5/60 paint and corrosion warranty - UNLESS there is major paint peeling OR there is visible signs of corrosion (ie: surface rust, rust staining or rust bubbles). IF there is definite water intrusion to the interior of the vehicle due to the defect then that should be covered under the 3/36 - don’t even think that would fall under the 5/60 paint warranty.

Good luck with the attempt at getting it fixed. I agree it should be fixed, but Ford’s legal jargon under the Paint Warranty will be the deciding factor as well as how loud you can scream before getting Ford to do what is right.
My thoughts exactly.

Don't know what happened to my prior posts, but I know there is a 5 year unlimited mile corrosion warranty, and one could argue that if the paint and clear coat failed, or did not have enough flex in the paint it would lead to the seam sealer being exposed causing these damages.

That is what my argument will be based upon, at least and when I take it into the dealer next week will update as to what happens.

If worse comes to worse a buddy of my owns a body shop that has certifications in several high end manufacturers, he said he has already seen this issue on the Mustangs and the new F250's.

Will keep everyone updated.
 

Sig556

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Me too. Hope that alone would avoid cracks, but doubt it. Entering a steep driveway/strip-mall entrance sideways probably twists the body as much as (if not more than) jacking without jacking rails, no? So we need to install rails, but also avoid twisting the car like that as much as possible. I'm doing both.
JC if you have jacking rails installed they stiffen the body almost as much as a boxed frame. They prevent body flex and support the entire chassis. The best ones out there are BMR they are strong, full length, well constructed and built like a tank.
 

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Bikeman315

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The best way for you to prevent any type of car flexing/twisting is not to drive it. I do not doubt that this could be an issue and appreciate OP for posting it. But, I think, like many issues, it is being overblown by some. If you have the issue certainly have it looked into but most of these pics appear to be the sealant that may have cracked and not the body.
 

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Thanks to the OP for posting about this problem. I haven't noticed any water in the trunk of my 15 RS3 but also haven't done any checking around the suspect areas for seam cracking. Mine is garage-kept but as a 2nd owner not sure how the first owner housed it. I will do so at my next opportunity. Also thanks to bluf3cs for posting a picture of his fix for the cracks if there is a problem there. Seems like a reasonable preventative measure against future damage.
 

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Taking mine to dealer tomorrow morning will follow up with results.
 

SoFla2016PP

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I did find a plan B for anyone interested.
Hahah.
19405E42-57C7-48CB-879A-036463FD5AA3.png
 

Elp_jc

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Would that spoiler hide sealant on the entire upper area? Or you wouldn't have to put any? Hopefully a forum member buys one, and can post details. If it's not OEM quality and looks, it wouldn't go into my car. Ha ha.
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