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Sound system upgrade

Cemclo

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Stage one of my sound system up grade is complete.
I have a 301a GT, which includes the 9 speaker system with sync 3. Overall it’s not terrible, but leaves a lot to be desired.

I decided I’d breakmy upgrades down into stages until I get to something I’m happy with, stage one is add some bass, stage two is change door and deck speakers on the factory amp, and stage three is a dsp and 5 channel amp. I’m really hoping, though not expecting, to be happy with changing the door and deck speakers and leaving the factory amp.

As for stage one, I went with zenclosure’s box with a kicker L7S 10” sub, for an amp I’m reusing an older Kenwood amp that’s rated for 500w rms at 4 ohm. The birth sheet for the amp comes in at just over 500w (512w if I recall) but that was many years ago. Connected to the rear speakers via an LC2i. I also disabled eq via forscan.

Going to take a little time and get the sub broken in properly while I look at component speakers for the rest. Any recommendations?
C2ED1069-6E7F-447E-B86F-779C8600688D.jpeg
You will definitely want to pull subwoofer signals from the front speakers on a stock amp. Rear speaker signals are really jacked up
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CorvZ061

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You will definitely want to pull subwoofer signals from the front speakers on a stock amp. Rear speaker signals are really jacked up
even after disabling eq via forscan? It sounds fine
 

Cemclo

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even after disabling eq via forscan? It sounds fine
Oh yes definitely. There’s still a roll off on the lower frequency but not like on the rear channels
 

FreePenguin

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I disabled factory EQ, and disabled front middle speaker. I loved my system after that. really did. but I did replace the 6.5 speakers with powerbass 2ohm speakers in the doors.
 

Cemclo

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I disabled factory EQ, and disabled front middle speaker. I loved my system after that. really did. but I did replace the 6.5 speakers with powerbass 2ohm speakers in the doors.
Why did you disable the center channel? I like it a lot
 

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because you'll love it a lot more with it disabled. all I did was pull the green pin out of the connector under amp, or use a wire cutter and snip the green wire. Lol. either reconnect the wires if you ever wanted it back, or re insert the pin back into the connect clip. cutting it is easier. I originally cut it, then I pulled the molex pin out because I actually needed the little molex pin for another project.

the cars audio became so much cleaner.
 

Cemclo

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because you'll love it a lot more with it disabled. all I did was pull the green pin out of the connector under amp, or use a wire cutter and snip the green wire. Lol. either reconnect the wires if you ever wanted it back, or re insert the pin back into the connect clip. cutting it is easier. I originally cut it, then I pulled the molex pin out because I actually needed the little molex pin for another project.

the cars audio became so much cleaner.
I replaced all my speakers including the center channel. It really pulls it together for me
 

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An artificial channel being bounced off windshield doesn’t do it for me. I tried to like the idea, but ultimately, prefer to have the correct left and right sound stage
 

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I am really considering the removal of the rear speakers, I did indeed sound deaden the shelf, but if I remove the speakers, will it cause the lid thing to flap all around each time bass hits? I don't really want to do it now and find out it becomes all bouncing everywhere. I doubt it would though.

I already have a 1 inch gap between the seats and shelf via bolt spacers. do you think removing the rear speakers would let anymore pass out? or is the 1 inch gap along the entire rear seats already enough of a port and the 2 6 inch speaker holes wouldn't yield much difference.
Yes, I do think more bass will pass through because it will be almost like letting both seats down. You could glue foam blocks to the bottom of the rear deck cover to prevent any vibration or rattling.
 

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Thanks for that link m3incorp. I’ll take a look and see if what offer will work for me.
 

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My deck lid is not rattling at all. Running a JL 10w3v3 in a ported box from a Mosconi D2 500.1 amplifier.
 
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CorvZ061

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Oh yes definitely. There’s still a roll off on the lower frequency but not like on the rear channels
do you by chance know the wire colors for the front speakers out of the amp in the drivers kick panel for the 9 speaker audio? I think I may be getting a result of the rear eq you were talking about. My sub sounds good except for at a certain frequency which isn’t even a low frequency. But it’s like there is no input going to the sub.
 

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do you by chance know the wire colors for the front speakers out of the amp in the drivers kick panel for the 9 speaker audio? I think I may be getting a result of the rear eq you were talking about. My sub sounds good except for at a certain frequency which isn’t even a low frequency. But it’s like there is no input going to the sub.
Look in the Stereo Information sticky thread in this same section
 

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do you by chance know the wire colors for the front speakers out of the amp in the drivers kick panel for the 9 speaker audio? I think I may be getting a result of the rear eq you were talking about. My sub sounds good except for at a certain frequency which isn’t even a low frequency. But it’s like there is no input going to the sub.
disable factory eq, it will give full range to the speakers I assume
 
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CorvZ061

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disable factory eq, it will give full range to the speakers I assume
there is still some weird crossover issues with the rear speakers. i went ahead and changed to pulling from the front door speakers and a huge difference was made.
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