Sound system upgrade

[CorvZ061]

Stage one of my sound system up grade is complete.
I have a 301a GT, which includes the 9 speaker system with sync 3. Overall it’s not terrible, but leaves a lot to be desired.

I decided I’d breakmy upgrades down into stages until I get to something I’m happy with, stage one is add some bass, stage two is change door and deck speakers on the factory amp, and stage three is a dsp and 5 channel amp. I’m really hoping, though not expecting, to be happy with changing the door and deck speakers and leaving the factory amp.

As for stage one, I went with zenclosure’s box with a kicker L7S 10” sub, for an amp I’m reusing an older Kenwood amp that’s rated for 500w rms at 4 ohm. The birth sheet for the amp comes in at just over 500w (512w if I recall) but that was many years ago. Connected to the rear speakers via an LC2i. I also disabled eq via forscan.

Going to take a little time and get the sub broken in properly while I look at component speakers for the rest. Any recommendations?

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[Cathul]

Skip stage 2 and go directly to stage 3.
Really... although you will find dozens of other opinions changing the speakers for lot better ones in the doors (skip the rears and remove them. lot more bass this way) and run them from the stock amp will not give you great results.
Therefor skip step2 and dedicate the money for the rear deck speakers to the DSP/amplifier.

 

[NGOT8R]

I’m running a pair of Herz DSK 165 6.5” mid bass speakers in the doors on the factory B&O amp and they sound great! The factory door speakers are made of paper (very cheap). I also agree with Cathul on removing the rear deck speakers. I removed one of mine to give the bass an avenue of escape from the trunk. I wish I had pulled them both because the sound from the remaining rear deck speaker isn’t enhancing the sound any at all. If I ever remove the rear deck cover again the other one is coming out too.

 

[CorvZ061]

I’m running a pair of Herz DSK 165 6.5” mid bass speakers in the doors on the factory B&O amp and they sound great! The factory door speakers are made of paper (very cheap). I also agree with Cathul on removing the rear deck speakers. I removed one of mine to give the bass an avenue of escape from the trunk. I wish I had pulled them both because the sound from the remaining rear deck speaker isn’t enhancing the sound any at all. If I ever remove the rear deck cover again the other one is coming out too.

Pulling the deck speakers makes that big of a difference? I’m sure my kids in the back would notice them gone, though.

 

[Cathul]

My daughter doesn't notice this (6 year old).

 

[NGOT8R]

Pulling the deck speakers makes that big of a difference? I’m sure my kids in the back would notice them gone, though.

Yes, it sure does. The best way I can describe the sound of the remaining rear deck speaker in my car is, it sounds no better than a transistor radio to me. I believe it’s only rated at 12.5W. Try fading your music to the rear and turn your volume up to see what you think; or better yet, unplug them you have the rear deck cover off.

Now as for the bass, from your subwoofer, having no rear deck speakers provides an escape for all that bass which would otherwise be trapped in the trunk. Have you ever noticed that the bass sounds much deeper when you let down one of your seat backs? This is what you’d be accomplishing without having to ride around with one of the seat backs down.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

I have to agree with removing the rear speakers for more bass. But you might want to sound deaden that rear panel or the cardboard cover is going to vibrate badly.

 

[gadgtfreek]

I had the doors and rears replaced with JL Audio speakers, sounds good just needs bass. Punch 1000x5 for power, and crossovers and amp are in the spare tire well. JL is currently building my 12" stealth box and I should have it the second week of January. Surprisingly, there were 3 Mustang orders ahead of mine, so they must be selling ok.

 

[CorvZ061]

Yes, it sure does. The best way I can describe the sound of the remaining rear deck speaker in my car is, it sounds no better than a transistor radio to me. I believe it’s only rated at 12.5W. Try fading your music to the rear and turn your volume up to see what you think; or better yet, unplug them you have the rear deck cover off.

Now as for the bass, from your subwoofer, having no rear deck speakers provides an escape for all that bass which would otherwise be trapped in the trunk. Have you ever noticed that the bass sounds much deeper when you let down one of your seat backs? This is what you’d be accomplishing without having to ride around with one of the seat backs down.

I’ll be honest I’ve never played it with one of the back seats folded gown, at least not yet. I have to do some tuning to the lc2 and amp still, it’s a little too soft right now but I also have the gain turned down some for break in.

 

[m3incorp]

Are the Herz DSK component speakers with separate tweeters? Did you just toss the tweeters?

I’m running a pair of Herz DSK 165 6.5” mid bass speakers in the doors on the factory B&O amp and they sound great! The factory door speakers are made of paper (very cheap). I also agree with Cathul on removing the rear deck speakers. I removed one of mine to give the bass an avenue of escape from the trunk. I wish I had pulled them both because the sound from the remaining rear deck speaker isn’t enhancing the sound any at all. If I ever remove the rear deck cover again the other one is coming out too.

 

[NGOT8R]

Yes, the DSK 165s did come with tweeters. I installed them in the A-pillars and they fit nicely behind the factory grills. I’m running the tweets on an AudioControl 4.300 amp. The Hertz 6.5s will also be powered by that same amp soon. I was just kinda waiting to tee if someone makes a t-harness for the B&O amp because I’d rather cut the factory speaker signal from the t-harness instead of cutting the factory wiring. I may have to cut wire though if no one developed the t-harness.

 

[Dave2013M3]

NGOT8R, can I ask where do you mount the external crossovers?

 

[NGOT8R]

NGOT8R, can I ask where do you mount the external crossovers?

I did t use the external crossovers because I am running an AudioControl DM-608 DSP. I turned off the factory eq via my AmpPro Fd-21 interface and on the amps as well. Now I control all of that with the DSP through my laptop.

 

[m3incorp]

I talked to the guys on the phone yesterday. They said they have this one installed and working with B&O system. They said when you add it to the checkout, choose the optional cable and all will be plug and play.


https://plugnplaykits.com/collectio...system-plug-play-upgrade-for-aftermarket-amps



QUOTE="NGOT8R, post: 3104954, member: 51947"]
Yes, the DSK 165s did come with tweeters. I installed them in the A-pillars and they fit nicely behind the factory grills. I’m running the tweets on an AudioControl 4.300 amp. The Hertz 6.5s will also be powered by that same amp soon. I was just kinda waiting to tee if someone makes a t-harness for the B&O amp because I’d rather cut the factory speaker signal from the t-harness instead of cutting the factory wiring. I may have to cut wire though if no one developed the t-harness.
[/QUOTE]

 

[FreePenguin]

I am really considering the removal of the rear speakers, I did indeed sound deaden the shelf, but if I remove the speakers, will it cause the lid thing to flap all around each time bass hits? I don't really want to do it now and find out it becomes all bouncing everywhere. I doubt it would though.

I already have a 1 inch gap between the seats and shelf via bolt spacers. do you think removing the rear speakers would let anymore pass out? or is the 1 inch gap along the entire rear seats already enough of a port and the 2 6 inch speaker holes wouldn't yield much difference.

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