Solved: Woodpecker in my valve train ??

[Jhalil101]

I recently swapped my oil pump gears and crank sprocket with billet versions. Ever since I’ve been hearing what I can best describe as a woodpecker. I’ve attached a video below of the sound I’m hearing and I am almost certain that it is coming from just under the drivers side valve cover towards the front of the motor. I’ve tried Ceratec but it’s made no difference. Car is a 2020 PP1 GT with 7,000 miles and fresh 5w20 motorcraft oil and filter.



close up at 0:35

Edit: I should add, car drives fine and still has all power and makes plenty of oil pressure.

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[thelostotter]

I'd definitely pull that valve cover off and take a look. Sound like one of the chains is rattling.

 

[Jhalil101]

I'd definitely pull that valve cover off and take a look. Sound like one of the chains is rattling.

Are you thinking it’s the chain connecting the cams to the crank or the chain connecting the two cams?

 

[thelostotter]

Are you thinking it’s the chain connecting the cams to the crank or the chain connecting the two cams?

Could be either. The tensioners on the secondary chain that connects the two cams need to be oriented correctly, I think its possible to have the sliders rotated 180 degrees and they will be misaligned with the chain. Going by memory here, I rebuilt my engine this summer. The Gen 3 might be a little different too.

 

[Jhalil101]

Could be either. The tensioners on the secondary chain that connects the two cams need to be oriented correctly, I think its possible to have the sliders rotated 180 degrees and they will be misaligned with the chain. Going by memory here, I rebuilt my engine this summer. The Gen 3 might be a little different too.

I didn’t mess with the secondary chains or secondary chain tensioner at all. I can’t imagine that it could be the primary chain tensioner either because don’t you think it would’ve knocked my timing off by now with the chain having slack in it? I will still pull the cover this weekend and inspect.

 

[Jhalil101]

Also the sound is not constant it only happens every few seconds randomly.

 

[thelostotter]

Yeah the main timing chain system is pretty simple so I wouldn't expect any issues there, that's why I jumped to the secondary chain but I forgot that doesn't need to come off.

 

[Jhalil101]

The only thing I can think of that could be making racket is the intake VCT oil control solenoid.

Maybe some of the old RTV I removed found its way into the oil pan and is clogging this thing up? Although I’d think it would be throwing a code and running rough if that were the case. Just spitballing here but where it’s located sounds exactly like where the noise is coming from.

 

[Jhalil101]

Really need a coyote connoisseur to weight in on what I should be looking for when I open it back up! Any guess would be appreciated.

 

[Jhalil101]

Still looking for help before I go replacing everything!

I pulled off the LH valve cover and noticed the VCT Solenoid’s (pictured in post #8) electrical connector had a ton of play and thought that maybe it got broken while we were moving around the front engine cover. Fast forward a week later and a replacement comes in the mail that has zero play. Excited I rush and throw in on the car tidy everything back up and to my disappointment find the car still makes the noise.

I put my ear to a pipe and placed it against the valve cover while the car was running and I’m 100% certain that it is coming from where the timing chains meet the cam cogs. I’m not certain wether it is the primary or secondary chain making the noise since they are so close together.

I’m leaning towards replacing the primary chain tensioners with some mmr ones but I’d really rather not have to mess with it if that isn’t the problem.

Once again I’m just looking for any input someone might have, as stated previously the car runs great and still makes tons of oil pressure. While I had the valve cover off I inspected everything and the VCT solenoid was the only thing I could find out of the ordinary. I can’t find anyone that seems to have the same problem as me and I’d really like to figure it so the car will be set to go for my stage 2 Whipple install.

Thanks for reading.

 

[ice445]

I think the issue is related to too much chain slack. Or the crank sprocket you installed is out of round and causing chain wobble on the primaries. Aftermarket parts aren't always better unfortunately, and you said the issue started just after installation.

 

[Jhalil101]

I think the issue is related to too much chain slack. Or the crank sprocket you installed is out of round and causing chain wobble on the primaries. Aftermarket parts aren't always better unfortunately, and you said the issue started just after installation.

I’m really thinking the LH (side that’s making the noise) tensioner is shot, it seems like I remember being about to compress it by hand pushing to it again my work bench. I’m leaning more towards that then the sprocket being out of round since it is only one chain doing it and mmr makes pretty quality parts. I can get a replacement tensioner from Ford for around $50 so I might start with that.

Do you know by chance if I’ll have to drain the oil to swap the tensioner or can I get away with not doing that?

 

[ice445]

I’m really thinking the LH (side that’s making the noise) tensioner is shot, it seems like I remember being about to compress it by hand pushing to it again my work bench. I’m leaning more towards that then the sprocket being out of round since it is only one chain doing it and mmr makes pretty quality parts. I can get a replacement tensioner from Ford for around $50 so I might start with that.

Do you know by chance if I’ll have to drain the oil to swap the tensioner or can I get away with not doing that?

As long as you don't take the oil pan off you won't need to drain the oil.

 

[Jhalil101]

As long as you don't take the oil pan off you won't need to drain the oil.

Okay, and if I’m going to replace the tensioner do you think I should replace with OEM or go with mmr billet?

 

[ice445]

Okay, and if I’m going to replace the tensioner do you think I should replace with OEM or go with mmr billet?

Up to you, I haven't done it on a coyote personally. OEM should be fine

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