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Shortblock advice

Troy Carter

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are you friggin kidding me... Tim@MPR had to add 2 heavy slugs to a brand new crank for my boostline rods.. The wiecso rods are very heavy for what they are. why would you try to nickle and dime a performance build. even my brand new block needed machining as they are not square from the factory. I'm all for saving cash, but some times you gotta pay to play. I've been a professional wrench for 20yrs and I know when I'm being taken advantage of. I had no intentions of spending money on brand new block until I was educated. And I'm local so me and tim, which I have used in the past had a face to face and showed me how even new parts need work... espesically when your shooting for 4 digit numbers.

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Great build.

I absolutely think that if you are at a level like the OP that you should be having your stuff balanced and checked. So we are definately in the same mind set for builds like this and I can't understand why anyone would sacrafice on this. You can definately save a few $ on many builds but you just can't skip the important stuff.

I will defend some of the non-balancing posts only because I've seen factory balance numbers for several motors that are way out of whack for what I would expect. So, there is clearly a window that's larger than what you and I may accept for factory builds. But, not for !000hp stuff. Yes, a stock shortblock can often take that power but it's a gamble and just tossing parts in a block isn't going to be much of an improvement there.
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I think what I was trying to get across is there is alot of hidden cost that go into a build. Here are some prime examples.
-a new block does NOT come with a doweling kit or any of the core plugs install. expect 100.00 right there.
-there is also shipping on most of these items. I purchased locally with an employee discount and still still cost close to a 1000.00 with tax.
-if you plan on running any aftermarket piston, you will need oil squirter block-offs. 75.00$
- torque to yield bolts for the valve train and block will set you back another 100.00 or so.
- not a requirement but highly recommended--- boss302 chain tensioners. 100.00

when its all said and done expect to pay close to 5k for a COMPLETE engine without sleeves or headwork.. I went with upgraded valve springs and comp cam timing chains so I could spin this motor up to 8500. I also did all the labor myself, minus the machine work. In the end, 5K for an engine that can live at 1100whp is a deal in my book .

here is my setup about done and she is running good...

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Jackson1320

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are you friggin kidding me... Tim@MPR had to add 2 heavy slugs to a brand new crank for my boostline rods.. The wiecso rods are very heavy for what they are. why would you try to nickle and dime a performance build. even my brand new block needed machining as they are not square from the factory. I'm all for saving cash, but some times you gotta pay to play. I've been a professional wrench for 20yrs and I know when I'm being taken advantage of. I had no intentions of spending money on brand new block until I was educated. And I'm local so me and tim, which I have used in the past had a face to face and showed me how even new parts need work... espesically when your shooting for 4 digit numbers.

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What crankshaft are you running. I have had boostline rods come out in spec. Plus it depends on what your balance goals are. There’s more to it than just the the rods
 
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Troy Carter

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I have Oliver rods, not Boostline but my new Boss crank also needed two small slugs to balance with the Olivers. Considering Boss cranks claim to be balanced to a 618g rod and Olivers are 663 with Boostlines claiming 696g I can't beleive that I'd be happy with either Oliver or Boostline being used without balancing. I mean, 78g between the spread can't possibly all come within spec.

Look, here's what I'm saying. The gen 3 aluminator is a decent deal if you don't want to build a motor yourself for a decent 1000hp setup. Same with some of the other options posted in this thread for shortblocks.

If you want to save a few $$ and do it yourself that's great but check your stuff over and don't just beleive that it will work because anyone told you it would. Literally too many moving parts to just hope it works based on posted number without actually checking.
 

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I would think using rods right out of the package would be like using a bellhousing without checking the runout. Could it work? Sure. Might even get lucky and need zero offsets, but if it's out of alignment, even a smidge, you're going to end up with elliptical wear, potential binding and high rpm shift issues, etc. Just because a part comes from a factory with a tight tolerance doesn't mean that it will compliment or integrate with OTHER parts in proper fashion.

I would consider using slap and go parts for a daily driver (to keep repair costs low). I don't think i'd be all that hip on the idea for a high horsepower performance and precision machine.
 
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Jackson1320

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I have Oliver rods, not Boostline but my new Boss crank also needed two small slugs to balance with the Olivers. Considering Boss cranks claim to be balanced to a 618g rod and Olivers are 663 with Boostlines claiming 696g I can't beleive that I'd be happy with either Oliver or Boostline being used without balancing. I mean, 78g between the spread can't possibly all come within spec.

Look, here's what I'm saying. The gen 3 aluminator is a decent deal if you don't want to build a motor yourself for a decent 1000hp setup. Same with some of the other options posted in this thread for shortblocks.

If you want to save a few $$ and do it yourself that's great but check your stuff over and don't just beleive that it will work because anyone told you it would. Literally too many moving parts to just hope it works based on posted number without actually checking.
It is not about the total weight of the rod but where the weight is. A compstar rod out weights a boss rod by about 60grams but only need a small amount removed from the big end to be in spec
 

battleship

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first tuning session at PBD on this setup.. ( i'm down the road from them) Remember it's a 4 door truck and not a mustang. she is a real blast to drive.. hopefully my 5700lb whale will see 9's tommorow.... ( 10.45 is my current best)

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Jackson1320

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first tuning session at PBD on this setup.. ( i'm down the road from them) Remember it's a 4 door truck and not a mustang. she is a real blast to drive.. hopefully my 5700lb whale will see 9's tommorow.... ( 10.45 is my current best)

20201211_131712.jpg
What do you mean keep in mind it’s not a mustang. Those are some killer numbers for a mustang and even more impressive in a pickup. Enjoy
 

battleship

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What do you mean keep in mind it’s not a mustang. Those are some killer numbers for a mustang and even more impressive in a pickup. Enjoy
For whatever reason it seems like the mustangs make more power than the trucks pound for pound.. I know the firing order is different, don't really know what else.. that's why I made that statement.
 

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Jackson1320

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For whatever reason it seems like the mustangs make more power than the trucks pound for pound.. I know the firing order is different, don't really know what else.. that's why I made that statement.
Ether way awesome numbers. Get ready to hurt some feelings
 

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with the water jackets supports, idk, im on the fence about that
It's one of the things that's been addressed in the newer blocks, without sleeving, the cylinders have way less rigidity and with big water channels, I'm sure that's what they're trying to shore up.
 
 




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