Redlining your car

[Mustang5ohMan]

It’s the gift and curse of these cars. For short digs to get into the power band good you have to get the RPMs up....

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[schmeky]

The 5.0 valves are small and appear to be lite weight, which is good, and 5.0 valve springs are much smaller then the valve springs used in a small 2 valve Chevy motor for a comparison. Modern chrome silicon valve springs can easily last the life of the engine.

I don't see the 5.0 valve springs as being a weak area, in fact I have not read or heard of any loss of valve control or valve float in the 5.0.

 

[sport160]

I have a new 2019 GT. Need for green with the black racing stripe. Damn do I love this car.
Prior to this one, I had a 98 with the 4.6L engine. It was quick and sounded good but NOTHING like this one.

The problem that I've had is how quick it gets to 7,000 RPM in first. I've bounced it off of the rev limiter a couple of times now and panicked about it. It will take me a bit to get used to it for sure. A few early mornings on the local highway should help.

Is there a way to set the rev limiter lower than the factory setting? I know that is the opposite of what most ask, I just don't like getting that high into the RPMS if I can help it.

And as for the rev matching... Arrgghhhh.. I hate that.

You can turn the rev matching off right? Certainly can on mine, its an option on the pony button on steering wheel

 

[NoVaGT]

 

[m3incorp]

I just want to know where he found those long straight roads lol

He said he spent something between 3 and 4 hours sitting on the speed limiter of 155, lol.

 

[Mustang5ohMan]

You can turn the rev matching off right? Certainly can on mine, its an option on the pony button on steering wheel

Never seen that but I’d take a look. What year and model do you have?

 

[Norm Peterson]

The 5.0 valves are small and appear to be lite weight, which is good, and 5.0 valve springs are much smaller then the valve springs used in a small 2 valve Chevy motor for a comparison. Modern chrome silicon valve springs can easily last the life of the engine.

I don't see the 5.0 valve springs as being a weak area, in fact I have not read or heard of any loss of valve control or valve float in the 5.0.

I'm not expecting them actually break. But it's hard to not picture them losing a little seat pressure and open pressure if you hammer the engine to redline at every opportunity.


Norm

 

[sport160]

Never seen that but I’d take a look. What year and model do you have?

A 19 Bullitt, but I can't believe that's a Bullitt only config option, although with Ford, you never know for sure :-)

 

[sport160]

Never seen that but I’d take a look. What year and model do you have?

If you have the digital cluster its right there on the menu under the pony/mustang button options, if you have the normal cluster its an option under track apps

 

[Mustang5ohMan]

A 19 Bullitt, but I can't believe that's a Bullitt only config option, although with Ford, you never know for sure :-)

yeah that what it has to be... I didn’t notice it .

 

[Elp_jc]

Never seen that but I’d take a look. What year and model do you have?

It came out in 2019. And if you have it, it CAN be turned off . As mentioned, go to the pony menu and it'll be right there checked, when you open the menu. Just uncheck it, if desired. Easy peasy. And yes, you'll notice you just can't beat it consistently, so don't get mad at it for being better than you. Ha ha. It blips the throttle exactly the amount I like to do, which is aggressive, but not overly so. Surprisingly, Porsche's system is meh; much less aggressive. Almost like motorcycles; just enough to match engine speed, so not really a 'blip'.

 

[Jimmy Dean]

Ford shows maximum horsepower, 460, at 7000 rpm. Not sure I understand the purpose of going beyond that. Just because you can do something doesn’t mean it makes sense to do it.

Because it is not about hitting maximum horsepower (rather not about hitting a maximum hp number), it is about the total power area under the curve in a gear, from the shift into it until you shift out. you would ideally want to peak HP to be near the middle of the RPM range unless the power drops off a cliff on the end (like a big block with weak springs that'll float valves at 5kRPM)

compare these two identical curves, suppose you had a 1500rpm range between shifts

if you went with the second shift pattern, your average HP would be up significantly (and your applied torque would be as well, even though it is instantaneously lower on the second pattern...but that's a different physics discussion)

The other benefit is that by shifting at a higher RPM, provided the motor can handle that RPM safely, is that when the RPMs drop into the next gear, your are at, in this example, 500RPM higher, or about 50hp more already available.

Now, for 1st gear this doesn't really apply, that is about instantaneous torque to get moving initially. some of the older transmissions you would shift into second pretty quick to keep high torque up through about 50mph before moving your shift points up in 3rd and 4th gear where HP is a bit more important

basically, you drop the red portion, and gain the green portion for power applied:

 

[Bikeman315]

Because it is not about hitting maximum horsepower (rather not about hitting a maximum hp number), it is about the total power area under the curve in a gear, from the shift into it until you shift out. you would ideally want to peak HP to be near the middle of the RPM range unless the power drops off a cliff on the end (like a big block with weak springs that'll float valves at 5kRPM)

compare these two identical curves, suppose you had a 1500rpm range between shifts

if you went with the second shift pattern, your average HP would be up significantly (and your applied torque would be as well, even though it is instantaneously lower on the second pattern...but that's a different physics discussion)

The other benefit is that by shifting at a higher RPM, provided the motor can handle that RPM safely, is that when the RPMs drop into the next gear, your are at, in this example, 500RPM higher, or about 50hp more already available.

Now, for 1st gear this doesn't really apply, that is about instantaneous torque to get moving initially. some of the older transmissions you would shift into second pretty quick to keep high torque up through about 50mph before moving your shift points up in 3rd and 4th gear where HP is a bit more important

basically, you drop the red portion, and gain the green portion for power applied:

I get it now. Thanks for posting.

 

[Qcman17]

My car has never hit the red line....

 

[CrashOverride]

I have to give FoMoCo a lot of credit for these engines, and the engine is why I bought the car to be honest. I've complained ad infinitum about the stupid 100mm bore center that they backed themselves into (Such a poor, poor choice made for a FWD V-8 engine plan in the 90's) and because of that, they have to make a ton of somewhat questionable choices. Because the engine has OHC, the heads are huge, which means in order to cram the engine into an engine bay, the deck height needs to be small. But, to compete with a 6.2/6.4 OHV engine, without FI, you need to (1) bore out the cylinders as much as possible and (2) stroke it. (1) is self-limited to approximately the bore size of the Voodoo. So the only way to build cubes is to stroke it. Normally, not much of a problem, but because of the short deck height, you really have to compromise the rod length and/or put the piston pin darn near into the oil groove. A complete mess in terms of engineering, yet the thing I love about this engine is just how well they built it in order to cope with the cards stacked against it. If this exact same engine was built by anyone, with possible exception to the Germans, it would have a 6k redline because they would use "standard grade" materials. But because they know the piston acceleration is going to be pretty high (due to the long stroke, short rod combo) and the sidewall loading is going to be high (same reason) they use really good forged internals to take the abuse.

And don't even get me started on the Voodoo...That thing deserves to be in a museum - If I could afford it, I'd buy a few of the crankshafts and use them as lamp stands because they are so cool.

The silly thing is, if GM was willing to throw a few dollars into the LS/LT engine (Basically employing a lot of the coyote's features) the engines would easily hit 550HP. We'll see that as well with the C8 (Presumably Z06) 5.5L engine...Just imagine if that engine was punched out to the same 6.2L the LS/LT has.

*Note I know the C8R "only" makes 500HP, but it's race-dressed designed for abuse. A street engine would make more power.

The engine cost for the coyote I would guess is at least double the cost of the LS/LT.

The funny thing is how people discredit the torque of the Coyote. It is absolutely massive. Given it's size, it outperforms a lot of way more expensive engines...And again, I'l talking torque, not HP (Technically Brake Mean Effective Pressure [BMEP]). Check out this video explaining just how awesome it is.

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