Rear Upper Shock Mounts

[fatbillybob]

That's why I sourced the Eibach units and cut them in half (3->1.5") or might go even shorter. If I'm hitting them at all it's because I hit one hell of a bump and managed to blow thru most of the stroke. IMO they should only be a last-ditch device to soften the spike in energy transfer to the mount.

Agreed! I think you can remove the spring and run the rear suspension through it's stroke. You can feel the stop in the shock on full compression and see where that is relative to the BS. Then you can cut the BS accordingly and get max stroke and the protection you want from say ripping out the mounts. It may be that our stock BS is the way it is because that prevents the stock shock from bottoming out and sacrificing the stock mount.

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[BmacIL]

Yes but only if you run out of travel and bottom. That's part of what racers do is test and develop to go faster. If that 2" BS takes up travel that you still have in your suspension and you hit those stops you go slower. You can't do things like get the power down right because you loose grip on the BS.

You should still have a small one for kerbs and such.

 

[fatbillybob]

The kit looks like the Vorshlag MCS TT2 one and in the pic you can see the front springs are 600lb or GTS package rate. Can't tell from the pic what the rear spring rate is but if it is the GTS kit then it would be 750lb. Vorshlag says 60mm front springs and 2.25" rears. Probably 6" long at each end.

Correct! I just did not feel comfortable with the bigger rates on his other package. Terry says it works and is smoking fast "trust me." I'm more of a softer spring bigger bar guy. So I compromised and took his middle package and those rates are still higher than what anyone else runs of I mentally feel comfortable with. They are certainly higher than BMR's fastest setup or the GT350R setup. I forget the chassis frequency I estimated but it was pretty stout for a non-aero car. I get the exact frequnecy when I weigh all the components and do the math. I figure I'll try this and best thing are springs are off the shelf easy and cheap to buy in any rate I want. So if I want to go softer I can and Lex at MCS (former best guy at Moton left to start MCS) says these shocks can take quite a large range of rates before I have to revalve them.

 

[fatbillybob]

You should still have a small one for kerbs and such.

Yes might be good idea.

 

[BmacIL]

Correct! I just did not feel comfortable with the bigger rates on his other package. Terry says it works and is smoking fast "trust me." I'm more of a softer spring bigger bar guy. So I compromised and took his middle package and those rates are still higher than what anyone else runs of I mentally feel comfortable with. They are certainly higher than BMR's fastest setup or the GT350R setup. I forget the chassis frequency I estimated but it was pretty stout for a non-aero car. I get the exact frequnecy when I weigh all the components and do the math. I figure I'll try this and best thing are springs are off the shelf easy and cheap to buy in any rate I want. So if I want to go softer I can and Lex at MCS (former best guy at Moton left to start MCS) says these shocks can take quite a large range of rates before I have to revalve them.

The rates you got are not too far above the traditional go-to of 2 Hz baseline for a low aero street car. The problem with big bar on the rear of this car is that you won't be able to put power down.

I just installed RideTechs with 425 / 550. I previously had the GT350R and BMR handling springs with the FP track dampers.

 

[shogun32]

So if I want to go softer I can and Lex at MCS (former best guy at Moton left to start MCS) says these shocks can take quite a large range of rates before I have to revalve them.

I couldn't believe those rates either. I have the Steeda duals and I think the fronts at 220/350 are interfering with proper bump absorption. I really should put some potentiometers on the rear shocks to see where i'm at on the rate transition but the more I drive it the less annoyed I am with the rears but I'm still not in the happy camp.

 

[BmacIL]

I couldn't believe those rates either. I have the Steeda duals and I think the fronts at 220/350 are interfering with proper bump absorption. I really should put some potentiometers on the rear shocks to see where i'm at on the rate transition but the more I drive it the less annoyed I am with the rears but I'm still not in the happy camp.

You'd be amazed what linear spring rate can feel nice with a good monotube damper.

 

[fatbillybob]

The rates you got are not too far above the traditional go-to of 2 Hz baseline for a low aero street car. The problem with big bar on the rear of this car is that you won't be able to put power down.

I just installed RideTechs with 425 / 550. I previously had the GT350R and BMR handling springs with the FP track dampers.

Good to know! Do you have the big plate rear shock mounts with the extra rivnuts for more support of the thin chassis metal? If so I think that is the best design on the market. I can't believe no one else is doing that even as an option. I got the vorschlag shock mounts on now but I also have J&M mounts with straight cut bottom. My thinking was the J&M design was an easier one to weld an additional plate to copy the ridetech design.

 

[BmacIL]

Good to know! Do you have the big plate rear shock mounts with the extra rivnuts for more support of the thin chassis metal? If so I think that is the best design on the market. I can't believe no one else is doing that even as an option. I got the vorschlag shock mounts on now but I also have J&M mounts with straight cut bottom. My thinking was the J&M design was an easier one to weld an additional plate to copy the ridetech design.

Sure do. Was a piece of cake.

 

[shogun32]

might want to push a shock sock on those rears since there is no dust boot.

 

[BmacIL]

might want to push a shock sock on those rears since there is no dust boot.

Not a bad idea.

 

[Sawyer]

Just wanted to add my experiences with the Steeda mounts. I bought mine 2 years ago and just installed them recently. I am also getting a creak, clank when the wheel is unloaded. Called Steeda and "they have never heard of this issue" and advise that I purchase a replacement unit since they cannot locate my original purchase to honor the lifetime warranty. I'll be moving to the BMR mounts.

 

[tj@steeda]

Hello Aaron,

Just wanted to add my experiences with the Steeda mounts. I bought mine 2 years ago and just installed them recently. I am also getting a creak, clank when the wheel is unloaded. Called Steeda and "they have never heard of this issue" and advise that I purchase a replacement unit since they cannot locate my original purchase to honor the lifetime warranty. I'll be moving to the BMR mounts.

Hello Aaron,

It is my understanding that Rod is currently working with you to ensure everything is taken care of - is that correct?

Please let me know - thank you in advance for your help.

TJ

 

[Sawyer]

Hey Tj,
I have not heard anything since my call but his statement that he had never heard of this happening, doubted that it was a problem discussed on the Mustang6G forum and that I would have to buy a replacement for the creaking mount made me feel as though I was being blown off.

 

[tj@steeda]

Hello Aaron,

Great news - I just spoke to our manufacturing team - we are going to honor the warranty & get you a new unit out ASAP. Please send me your address to [email protected].

As far as your conversation with our sales team - I can assure you, you were not being blown off or doubted that there was an issue. The sales professional needed a few minutes to understand what was taking place, he needed to speak with our manufacturing team & he was going to get back to you as soon as he was able to understand what was taking place.

We appreciate your patience & support.

Best Regards,

TJ

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