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Rear Camber Adjustment.

Sithel

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I adjusted my rear camber just by feel and look until i can get it to the alignment shop. I'm still not driving the car but wanted to make some adjustments so i don't have any rubbing issues while getting it there. Anyways, I was able to get to the passenger side with a deep well socket easily. The main reason you need a wrench or ratchet wrench on the drivers side is because of the gas tube that runs in the way of the bolt.
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mbeale68

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Can the rear camber be adjusted while there is weight on the rear wheels? If not, then after the camber is adjusted, won't the bushings in the upper arm be clocked incorrectly? In other words, if you adjust the camber while no weight is on the wheels and then lower the car, there will be twist or pre-load in the inner bushing of the arm. This could cause premature wear/failure of the bushing. The mechanic at the alignment shop that I work with pointed this out. I'm wondering if this is really a problem and if there is a way to avoid it.
 

BMR Tech

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Can the rear camber be adjusted while there is weight on the rear wheels? If not, then after the camber is adjusted, won't the bushings in the upper arm be clocked incorrectly? In other words, if you adjust the camber while no weight is on the wheels and then lower the car, there will be twist or pre-load in the inner bushing of the arm. This could cause premature wear/failure of the bushing. The mechanic at the alignment shop that I work with pointed this out. I'm wondering if this is really a problem and if there is a way to avoid it.
Yes, it can and should be done with the weight loaded on to the wheels/tires - technically.

The best way to do it is:,

-remove a slight amount of load from the rear wheels
-loosen the inner slotted bolt
-pull the top of the tire OUT until it cannot go any further
-snugly tighten inner slotted bolt
-place load back onto wheels
-loosen inner bolt again, then adjust camber to spec or desired setting
-torque inner slotted bolt to spec
-loosen outer knuckle to link bolt, then re-torque
-double check camber to ensure accurate.

That said, with our new design, you simply loosen the inner bolt, adjust, then torque inner bolt and done. :cheers:
 

stang99svt

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I'm digging up this old thread as a search didn't yield a response any where else.
Anyone find a good way to torque down the inner upper camber bolt? Installed the BMR Upper camber arms. I've got alot of tools but spent most of Sunday attempting to get an angle, but was very limited, especially on the driver side given the fuel filler line.
 

BmacIL

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I'm digging up this old thread as a search didn't yield a response any where else.
Anyone find a good way to torque down the inner upper camber bolt? Installed the BMR Upper camber arms. I've got alot of tools but spent most of Sunday attempting to get an angle, but was very limited, especially on the driver side given the fuel filler line.
Has to be done from underneath unless you drop the subframe.
 

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Creedog

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Can anyone recommend the Steeda Rear Camber Adjustment kit? Especially on a GT350?
 

DougS550

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I am on the alignment rack and the techs are still telling me that there is no adjustment for rear camber. ZukiDan I read your post to them and now they think they can do it. :lol:
OEM does look hard to get to so I replaced my OEM Camber links with BMR Fully Adjustable Camber links. Easy access to adjust them, Ford got my Cambers right at that sweet spot. Good luck
 

Dana Pants

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I'm digging up this old thread as a search didn't yield a response any where else.
Anyone find a good way to torque down the inner upper camber bolt? Installed the BMR Upper camber arms. I've got alot of tools but spent most of Sunday attempting to get an angle, but was very limited, especially on the driver side given the fuel filler line.
Easy solution: Move the fuel filler line.

That's what I did. I recall it being only 1 bolt. Good luck.
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