Rear camber adjustment Pics - how to

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes & Chassis' started by murphyslaww, Apr 19, 2015.

  1. murphyslaww

    murphyslaww Well-Known Member

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    Not really a how-to, as it's super easy but here is the pics of my camber correction from the Eibach Sportlines.

    This got me to around -1.0 both sides.

    Passenger side, loosen this bolt(18mm):

    [​IMG]

    broght back about 1.8 degrees of neg to pos.

    [​IMG]

    Drivers side, fuel filler line in the way, and be careful of the lock tab and the ABS sensor wire, (I think), same thing, loosen bolt.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Schu

    Schu Well-Known Member

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    Not sure that is accurate as you high think it is...
     
  3. OP
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    murphyslaww

    murphyslaww Well-Known Member

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    #3 murphyslaww, Apr 19, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2015
    No, I'm sure it's just ball park. But the way they changed was consistent.

    I was reading -3ish before on a pretty flat surface, those measured a change of 1.7 to 1.9 in moving the slotted arm, and now the measurement is -1 to - 0.8.

    I'd bet it's probably accurate to -0.3 and eyeball re-enforces it.
     
  4. DR_

    DR_ Well-Known Member

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    Good to know there is that much adjustment back there. Did that change the toe as well?
     
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    murphyslaww

    murphyslaww Well-Known Member

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    #5 murphyslaww, Apr 19, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2015
    Yeah, I'm pretty psyched about that. I may be able to just slide it from one end to the other after each event and get most of what I want without much hassle.

    The toe probably moved somewhat. It's pretty close to vertical, so a bit, I'd guess, but not a ton. I'm on pretty used RS-3's, so I'll monitor how they wear over the next few weeks. I probably won't get it aligned until just before the Mineral Wells Pro-Solo. I'm not worried about getting anything perfect until I'm on coil-overs and can get it corner-balanced as well.

    This is the plane that the movement occurs. It's pretty perpendicular to the travel of the hub.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. BlackS550

    BlackS550 Well-Known Member

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    edit


    thanks for this post - very helpful
     
  7. Mivy27

    Mivy27 New Member

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    Your post was correct. I moved it all the way out. Had the alignment and it showed rear camber on both wheels were at .08 neg camber. Did not change the toe much. But they adjusted it. Very little off. Since then I found steeda auto sports makes a rear camber adjustable arm. Just came out. Check it out if you want to get better than .08.
     
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  8. Mivy27

    Mivy27 New Member

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    P.S. I also have eibach sport lowering springs
     
  9. cobrakid

    cobrakid Well-Known Member

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    so you loosen that bolt, and pry outward and tighten (while on a lift) ????
    That moves the top of the wheel/tire outward correct?
     
  10. qtrracer

    qtrracer Well-Known Member

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    Camber is supposed to be measured with the weight on the car; caster too. Hence, for this sort of angle gauge, use some sort of bridge on the hub/spindle for the magnet (socket comes to mind). Or buy a CC gauge. If you go the latter be sure you anticipate the larger wheels. Some mounts only go to 18 or 19"; mine goes to 22". Down side, it won't measure 14" and smaller :(
     
  11. Ryan1112

    Ryan1112 Well-Known Member

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    How did you get that to move? Did you use a pry bar or something?
     
  12. trustyrusty436

    trustyrusty436 Active Member

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    You have to keep backing the nut off till it will move. I loosened the outer bolt also and it moves easily once the initial breaking loose, I though this sucker will never move , but it does! I only have a level so I'm going to try to get both side the same and see how it looks and wears for now. I don't race and don't care to spring for the Steeda parts unless really needed.:cool:
     
  13. vogtaction

    vogtaction Well-Known Member

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    I'm getting ready to adjust mine since my car is lowered about 1 in the rear. How do you get to the driver side bolt with the pipe that comes up in the way? Also, do you have to lift the car and take the wheel off I assume. Then adjust, tighten and put the wheel back on, lower to figure out where you are?
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
     
  14. trustyrusty436

    trustyrusty436 Active Member

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    I used a Flex Box-End Ratcheting Combination Wrench I got at Lowe's, KOBALT #0338377 18mm. This or one like it should work. After I did the springs and shocks & struts, so I took it to a Dealer to get the oil changed [ extended warranty ], so I decided I'm already here so I'll have them do an alignment to. Well the Jackass of a mechanic did the front just fine, but like a lot of people have found out they can't seem to figure out how to loosen the bolts to move the rear wheel in or out to adjust the camber!:shrug: Before he started the alignment I walk out to the car on a lift and got up under it and pointed to the bolts and told him about the adjustment slots! So about 2 hrs later they come in to the waiting area saying the rear end is not adjustable, so I discuss this with them for a little bit and decide their are f#@king idiots and I no longer want them to try anything else with it. So I take it home and do the rear in my driveway, they did say the toe on the rear wheels was good so I use a level and a rule to set the rear camber to about .6. it's supposed to be .8 to 1.2, but I was tired of screwing with it for the day. I have not noticed any abnormal wear or handling, so I'm leaving it there.:crazy:
     
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  15. vogtaction

    vogtaction Well-Known Member

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    That's exactly why I'm going to do it since half the idiots out there will do the same. Once you loosen the bolt can u just pull on the top of wheel or rotor to pull it out and adjust? Then go back under and tighten?
     
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