vogtaction
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tips. Ended up using 18mm deep socket on passenger side and 18mm wrench on the driver side. I took the bolt out holding the fuel line or whatever that line is in the way to be able to move it around a little. I turned the bolt loose so that the arm drops on its own. Then I took a jack and raised it under the rotor till the preferred height was achieved, then tightened down. Pretty simple once you figure out how to get around the big fat line and the right location to tighten down to.I used a Flex Box-End Ratcheting Combination Wrench I got at Lowe's, KOBALT #0338377 18mm. This or one like it should work. After I did the springs and shocks & struts, so I took it to a Dealer to get the oil changed [ extended warranty ], so I decided I'm already here so I'll have them do an alignment to. Well the Jackass of a mechanic did the front just fine, but like a lot of people have found out they can't seem to figure out how to loosen the bolts to move the rear wheel in or out to adjust the camber!:shrug: Before he started the alignment I walk out to the car on a lift and got up under it and pointed to the bolts and told him about the adjustment slots! So about 2 hrs later they come in to the waiting area saying the rear end is not adjustable, so I discuss this with them for a little bit and decide their are f#@king idiots and I no longer want them to try anything else with it. So I take it home and do the rear in my driveway, they did say the toe on the rear wheels was good so I use a level and a rule to set the rear camber to about .6. it's supposed to be .8 to 1.2, but I was tired of screwing with it for the day. I have not noticed any abnormal wear or handling, so I'm leaving it there.
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