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Rear alignment issue 2018 GT

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Drivers side
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Passenger side close-up of inner

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Passenger side full view


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Now, I am a guy who beats on this car a bit. I don't track it, but I drive it spiritedly, I like to drive into the corners I like to drive fast. I am not young, I am in my 50's and this isn't my first rodeo. This IS my first S550, but I am not new to driving street cars and pushing them a bit further than the average person. My last car was the S197 GT500 in my signature that was a lot of fun. This car is very capable out of the box, but I intend to push it a bit further with the Whipple and some stock height suspension mods. Just as a side note, I do already have a set of Delron bushing equipped vertical links that will go on the car soon.
 

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@AAD Performance I have two questions about the camber arms. I don’t see anything that locks it in place in the inboard adjustment hole. How does it attach on that end? Do you just push it full inboard and tighten down the bolt? And then camber adjustment ms after that…it looks like your limited to having the arm move from position to position as opposed to the infinite adjustability of a turnbuckle type setup? Thanks for the clarification.
 

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@AAD Performance I have two questions about the camber arms. I don’t see anything that locks it in place in the inboard adjustment hole. How does it attach on that end? Do you just push it full inboard and tighten down the bolt? And then camber adjustment ms after that…it looks like your limited to having the arm move from position to position as opposed to the infinite adjustability of a turnbuckle type setup? Thanks for the clarification.
Our camber arms ship with lockouts that for the factory camber adjustment slot. These lock outs are off set, so you can lock them out inboard, or flip them around and lock them in the outboard position. This allows the user a better range of adjustment.

You are correct though our design is not infinitely adjustable like the turn buckle type designs. Every design has trade off’s. Our interchangeable tab design was originally created for autox and road course users to be able to set their alignment for track and street use; so you can reliably and repeatably swap from race to street alignment without having to go to an alignment rack after initial set up.

If you have any more questions about the system or set up let me know or dm me.
 

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This photo is exactly how all four of my BFG all seasons tires have worn after 30,000+ miles. Alignment is excellent. Nearly zero toe at all four wheels, and stock camber settings for street use. I rotated them often (square setup).

I've thought about standing up the rear tires to ~1degree, but as mentioned in this thread I would only do that after getting aftermarket camber arms. I saw the alignment tech struggle with rear camber adjustment of the OEM arms. He had to return to his tool chest a couple times for wrenches. An extra long handle 18mm wrench is best for OEM arms. But the aftermarket products (AAD, SPC, etc) are designed to make it easier.
 

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relatively normal wear when you have camber and dont do track days
 
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I do really like the way the car handles with the current setting, and if it repeatedly will get approximately 30k miles out of a set of rear tires the way I drive it, I can totally live with that. I assume the passenger side wearing more than the drivers side has to do with the fact that I drive it by myself 70% of the time and I am running anywhere between 250-260lbs.
 

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I do really like the way the car handles with the current setting, and if it repeatedly will get approximately 30k miles out of a set of rear tires the way I drive it, I can totally live with that. I assume the passenger side wearing more than the drivers side has to do with the fact that I drive it by myself 70% of the time and I am running anywhere between 250-260lbs.
Note my tires were all seasons and rotated often. The BFG also has a pretty square shaped shoulder.
 
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I went with the same tires I had on it, Cooper GS3's. They have good traction for the current power level and I have NT05R'S for when I put the Whipple on it and need more, but 30k miles without being able to rotate them to me was a good run. As you can see, they were spent. I don't think that set owes me any money.

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I read on 6g that a real sensor is in the cylinder head but water and oil temps are back calculated from it. Ie no actual sensors for those.

Happy to be corrected.
Okaaaayyyy....
 
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Rear camber arms were the best/easiest thing I did on the rear. I went with these.....

My rear camber was originally -1.9 and -2.2°. With the new arms, I set camber to -.85 and -.90° So much better. I don't road course race the car. No need for that much negative camber for me. My fronts were just as bad. Bought the BMR eccentric bolts. Now both front are -1.2 and -1.3°

camber arms.jpg


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Rear camber arms were the best/easiest thing I did on the rear. I went with these.....

My rear camber was originally -1.9 and -2.2°. With the new arms, I set camber to -.85 and -.90° So much better. I don't road course race the car. No need for that much negative camber for me. My fronts were just as bad. Bought the BMR eccentric bolts. Now both front are -1.2 and -1.3°

camber arms.jpg


027A4A07-F64F-4761-9E44-249C4EA5C1B4.jpeg


1C30A533-9B38-4C47-B3F0-DF4F70803A0E.jpeg


B2E853B8-A9F8-43C5-806F-164D75801C67.jpeg


F0988493-9703-45F7-B0C3-2CDECD80EFBD.jpeg
I know you are more of a straight line performance guy than you are a cornering guy, but did you notice much of a difference in the corners when you took out the camber? I don't track my car much, but I enjoy driving in the corners on the street. There are some very fun corners nearby and I don't want it to suffer too much when I take it out.
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