Ramps for DIY Oil Change

[ORRadtech]

I've used Rhino Ramps for years. They fit under my stock ride height Mustang on 18" wheels.
My suggestion to the OP is to buy a pair of Rinos and try them. If they work, great. If not then he can return them and spend 6 times their price for Race Ramps.
We've got a guy who wants to start doing his own maintenance. Something he may, or may not, decide is for him. Is there really any need for him to spend $300+ on a set of ramps if a $50 set will work? Besides, he'll also need some basic hand tools- a wrench/socket set, oil filter wrench, funnel to do an oil change.
I'm sure the Race Ramps are fabulous for a low car but they seem like overkill for a first time oil change if an option at 1/6th the price will work.

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[Crew4991]

Hold up. I know you have a Viper, but you’re holding a Ferrari out on us??

Sorry for the slight de-rail OP

yes there is more than one prancing horse in the garage. My spouse primarily drives it… I just constantly fix the damn thing when it has its issues every month. LOL It’s a lovely car and fun to drive. The sounds it makes are absolutely beautiful but I always have this feeling that it might break down in the middle of a spirited drive. I usually take it to Cars&Coffee or Costco for gas and grabbing a rotisserie chicken. I feel more comfortable in my reliable American cars with lots of crappy plastics that won’t leave me stranded on the side of the road.

Going back to OP’s conversation… GET THE RACE RAMPS!!! You won’t regret it.

 

[vinny89gt]

I could never shell out that much money for ramps.

Personally, I bought a couple 2x12x8's and made my own for less than $40. You can spend a few extra bucks if you want and buy some door hinges and split them in the middle so you can fold part of the ramp out of your way for better access under the car.



Downside is the are large and heavy. Upside is you'll have saved yourself $400 for go fast parts.

Not mine but you get the idea.

 

[skinnyb]

I've used Rhino Ramps for years. They fit under my stock ride height Mustang on 18" wheels.
My suggestion to the OP is to buy a pair of Rinos and try them. If they work, great. If not then he can return them and spend 6 times their price for Race Ramps.
We've got a guy who wants to start doing his own maintenance. Something he may, or may not, decide is for him. Is there really any need for him to spend $300+ on a set of ramps if a $50 set will work? Besides, he'll also need some basic hand tools- a wrench/socket set, oil filter wrench, funnel to do an oil change.
I'm sure the Race Ramps are fabulous for a low car but they seem like overkill for a first time oil change if an option at 1/6th the price will work.

I tend to agree with that. As for tools for an oil change on a Gen 3, only really need a large drain pan enough to hold the 10 quarts and the large gush when you remove the plug, an oil filter wrench and a 7mm nut driver to remove the screw for the filter access flap and a filter to refill with. The plug is a twist out plastic job

 

[CrazyHippie]

After 13 months of ownership, I think I’ve finally worked up the nerve to change my own oil on my 2020 GT. I’d prefer to use ramps instead of fiddling around with a jack and jack stands. When I started looking at ramps, I never realized there were so many options, brands, and variables. Any suggestions for good quality ramps for home garage/driveway use? I’m not lowered and I have 255s all the way around. Also, any rookie oil change tips would be appreciated!


***Yes I know it’s just an oil change but I’ve never done my own car maintenance or been exposed to those who do.

I prefer jack stands, personally. First, less can go wrong getting car up in the air and I like to get the car high enough to fit a bucket under there to catch the oil. I use an old Fresh Step plastic cat litter pail that holds about 3 gallons. Here's way too much detail:

1. Warm up the car and then let it sit for about 5-10 minutes before draining. This thins the oil and provides a more complete drain.
2. If the car isn't level, it should be sloped towards the drain plug. (Another benefit of getting the front end of the car up in the air on jack stands.)
3. Put a large piece of cardboard under the car to catch drips and have an old towel or a few rags handy. (Oil stains concrete and dissolves blacktop/tarmac).
4. Take the fill cap off before draining. (Optional.)
5. Position the bucket rearward of the drain plug, loosen the plug carefully and slowly pull it out of its seat while controlling the oil flow and adjusting the bucket position to catch it. Once the plug is completely out, I typically drop it right into the bucket and fish it out later. (These plastic plugs make it hard to use a magnet to retrieve them....)
6. Allow it to drip for 5-10 minutes, slide the bucket out, retrieve and re-install the plug. Mop up any drips or spills.
7. Transfer the waste oil to a container for recycling. (You will need the empty bucket to replace the oil filter.)
8. Locate the oil filter and grab your choice of filter wrenches.
9. Prepare for a controlled spill when removing the filter -it's full of oil and will spill. I remove the plastic underbelly piece thats below the filter to get additional clearance. You can fashion a piece of cardboard as a drain to try to channel the oil to your bucket (or purchase a moldable piece on Amazon). You've got to shove this tightly under the filter all the way to the engine block cause leakage starts at the seal. You will still get oil on your hand and arm and wherever else it decides to flow. I like to loosen the filter a few turns until oil starts to drain, let it drain for a while, then spin the filter off quickly while keeping it upright like a cup full of coffee. Then pour the oil from the filter into the bucket. I usually just drop the whole filter into the bucket while I get the oil cleaned up.
10. Take some time to wipe up spilled oil from wherever it ends up, including you, the floor and all areas up in the engine bay.
11. Prepare a new filter by slightly lubricating it's o-ring. This keeps the seal from binding while tightening.
12. Wipe the filter sealing surface on the engine to get it good and clean, then spin the filter on as tight as you can get it by hand. Then use your filter wrench to tighten it about 1/4 to 1/3 spin more. Do not over-tighten.
13. Drop the car from it's ramp/stands and fill the engine to the fill mark with fresh oil. Keep in mind that the new filter is empty at this point. Start the car and allow it to run for a few minutes to fill the filter and otherwise circulate the oil.
14. Allow the car to sit for 5 minutes, check the fill level and top it off as needed.
15. Reset the oil life display in the car.

Done!

 

[robvas]

If you don't plan to mod your car underneath, then ramps are good for oil changes.

But if you think you will mod underneath then why not apply the ramps' money towards floor jack and stands? About $250 covers aluminum 2.5T jack plus four stands when they are on sale.

Agreed. More useful as well. And can be bad for $150 if you keep an eye out for deals!

 

[xcm77]

I rent a car lift for €15/H

 

[sms2022]

Been working on cars since I was 12. I have a set of metal Mac tools low profile ramps. I find myself using the cheap plastic ramps they sell at autozone instead.

an expensive lesson I learned a long time ago is buy decent but not top notch quality tools (and ramps, etc) and upgrade if it gives you issues or breaks. I have a snap-on filled tool chest that was truthfully a phenomenal waste of money. But I can’t say it doesn’t look great with the lid open in the garage lol

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

I have a set of Rhino Ramps but hate them, they always seem like they're gonna buckle when i drive onto them and now that im lowered i don't think they're a good option anymore.

For those with race ramps, do you need to put any adhesives pads under them to prevent them from sliding around on smooth concrete? The Rhino ones move around like a mofo unless you put some sticky foam under them. I've been thinking about the race ramps but they're so $$$ for ramps.

 

[Jnaszty559]

Can anyone tell me what way you turn the oil filter to loosen it ? I always seem to forget .

 

[MotoMike]

Can anyone tell me what way you turn the oil filter to loosen it ? I always seem to forget .

Counter clockwise, lefty loosy, righty tighty!

 

[MotoMike]

I prefer jack stands, personally. First, less can go wrong getting car up in the air and I like to get the car high enough to fit a bucket under there to catch the oil. I use an old Fresh Step plastic cat litter pail that holds about 3 gallons. Here's way too much detail:

1. Warm up the car and then let it sit for about 5-10 minutes before draining. This thins the oil and provides a more complete drain.
2. If the car isn't level, it should be sloped towards the drain plug. (Another benefit of getting the front end of the car up in the air on jack stands.)
3. Put a large piece of cardboard under the car to catch drips and have an old towel or a few rags handy. (Oil stains concrete and dissolves blacktop/tarmac).
4. Take the fill cap off before draining. (Optional.)
5. Position the bucket rearward of the drain plug, loosen the plug carefully and slowly pull it out of its seat while controlling the oil flow and adjusting the bucket position to catch it. Once the plug is completely out, I typically drop it right into the bucket and fish it out later. (These plastic plugs make it hard to use a magnet to retrieve them....)
6. Allow it to drip for 5-10 minutes, slide the bucket out, retrieve and re-install the plug. Mop up any drips or spills.
7. Transfer the waste oil to a container for recycling. (You will need the empty bucket to replace the oil filter.)
8. Locate the oil filter and grab your choice of filter wrenches.
9. Prepare for a controlled spill when removing the filter -it's full of oil and will spill. I remove the plastic underbelly piece thats below the filter to get additional clearance. You can fashion a piece of cardboard as a drain to try to channel the oil to your bucket (or purchase a moldable piece on Amazon). You've got to shove this tightly under the filter all the way to the engine block cause leakage starts at the seal. You will still get oil on your hand and arm and wherever else it decides to flow. I like to loosen the filter a few turns until oil starts to drain, let it drain for a while, then spin the filter off quickly while keeping it upright like a cup full of coffee. Then pour the oil from the filter into the bucket. I usually just drop the whole filter into the bucket while I get the oil cleaned up.
10. Take some time to wipe up spilled oil from wherever it ends up, including you, the floor and all areas up in the engine bay.
11. Prepare a new filter by slightly lubricating it's o-ring. This keeps the seal from binding while tightening.
12. Wipe the filter sealing surface on the engine to get it good and clean, then spin the filter on as tight as you can get it by hand. Then use your filter wrench to tighten it about 1/4 to 1/3 spin more. Do not over-tighten.
13. Drop the car from it's ramp/stands and fill the engine to the fill mark with fresh oil. Keep in mind that the new filter is empty at this point. Start the car and allow it to run for a few minutes to fill the filter and otherwise circulate the oil.
14. Allow the car to sit for 5 minutes, check the fill level and top it off as needed.
15. Reset the oil life display in the car.

Done!

On #9, the filter area on mine has a trap door in the belly pan to access the filter. One srew to remove, not too big of a mess the couple times I've changed oil.

Good tips in that post! Make damn sure you have a drain pan big enough to handle 10 qts! A lot of pans they sell are smaller.

 

[XeninWorX]

Counter clockwise, lefty loosy, righty tighty!

And if you have an aftermarket catch can (canister style), it’s the opposite.

I have Steeda jacking rails. I just jack the car up using the rails and put jack stands underneath.

 

[Kabayo]

I prefer jack stands, personally. First, less can go wrong getting car up in the air and I like to get the car high enough to fit a bucket under there to catch the oil. I use an old Fresh Step plastic cat litter pail that holds about 3 gallons. Here's way too much detail:

1. Warm up the car and then let it sit for about 5-10 minutes before draining. This thins the oil and provides a more complete drain.
2. If the car isn't level, it should be sloped towards the drain plug. (Another benefit of getting the front end of the car up in the air on jack stands.)
3. Put a large piece of cardboard under the car to catch drips and have an old towel or a few rags handy. (Oil stains concrete and dissolves blacktop/tarmac).
4. Take the fill cap off before draining. (Optional.)
5. Position the bucket rearward of the drain plug, loosen the plug carefully and slowly pull it out of its seat while controlling the oil flow and adjusting the bucket position to catch it. Once the plug is completely out, I typically drop it right into the bucket and fish it out later. (These plastic plugs make it hard to use a magnet to retrieve them....)
6. Allow it to drip for 5-10 minutes, slide the bucket out, retrieve and re-install the plug. Mop up any drips or spills.
7. Transfer the waste oil to a container for recycling. (You will need the empty bucket to replace the oil filter.)
8. Locate the oil filter and grab your choice of filter wrenches.
9. Prepare for a controlled spill when removing the filter -it's full of oil and will spill. I remove the plastic underbelly piece thats below the filter to get additional clearance. You can fashion a piece of cardboard as a drain to try to channel the oil to your bucket (or purchase a moldable piece on Amazon). You've got to shove this tightly under the filter all the way to the engine block cause leakage starts at the seal. You will still get oil on your hand and arm and wherever else it decides to flow. I like to loosen the filter a few turns until oil starts to drain, let it drain for a while, then spin the filter off quickly while keeping it upright like a cup full of coffee. Then pour the oil from the filter into the bucket. I usually just drop the whole filter into the bucket while I get the oil cleaned up.
10. Take some time to wipe up spilled oil from wherever it ends up, including you, the floor and all areas up in the engine bay.
11. Prepare a new filter by slightly lubricating it's o-ring. This keeps the seal from binding while tightening.
12. Wipe the filter sealing surface on the engine to get it good and clean, then spin the filter on as tight as you can get it by hand. Then use your filter wrench to tighten it about 1/4 to 1/3 spin more. Do not over-tighten.
13. Drop the car from it's ramp/stands and fill the engine to the fill mark with fresh oil. Keep in mind that the new filter is empty at this point. Start the car and allow it to run for a few minutes to fill the filter and otherwise circulate the oil.
14. Allow the car to sit for 5 minutes, check the fill level and top it off as needed.
15. Reset the oil life display in the car.

Done!

This is a good explanation; however, I recommend filling the oil filter about 1/2 full will oil to help prevent oil starvation on the first startup. Mark the filter with a piece of tape or chalk and tighten it 3/4 turn past where it touches the base when twisting it on. there is wiring directly under the filter. To prevent oil getting all over the wiring, simply form a piece of aluminum foil over the wire area. Good luck!

 

[1 old racer]

These arent for everyone but I change my oil, installed a diff cooler and installed out a x pipe with just the ramps on my lowered mustang and use these with all my other cars. Just look over the quick jacks. Also I added a review video on them

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