Question On Steeda Diff Bushing Inserts

[BluePonyGT]

Ok so I'm confused about something. Unless the pinion angle changes why would reinforcing the mount bushings on the differential cause "gear whine"?

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[WD Pro]

Thanks all that replied

I have the steeda inserts on the way and I will install the red bushings

WD

 

[WD Pro]

Ok so I'm confused about something. Unless the pinion angle changes why would reinforcing the mount bushings on the differential cause "gear whine"?

They doesn’t increase the whine - they just have the potential to transfer it to the cabin more due to the increased mount stiffness

WD

 

[BluePonyGT]

They doesn’t increase the whine - they just have the potential to transfer it to the cabin more due to the increased mount stiffness

WD

That's what I've been thinking. So if that's the case why all this talk about swapping gear oils, etc.?

 

[WD Pro]

I can only think that different oils have different sound deadening properties due to thickness and additives etc - I’m not an expert in either of these subjects though

WD

 

[shogun32]

heavier oil resists breakdown under shear and heat. Sound has nothing to do with it.

 

[GregO]

Higher viscosity lubricants have an effect on attenuation.

 

[rs2.royc]

I'm not sure if I was just unlucky, but just wanted to provide a PSA . Once you install the bushing inserts, it is recommended to go back after 100 miles, 500 miles, and so on to check on the bolts. I got mine installed at one of their vendors and was not told about this. 1 year later, one of the bolts snapped and the insert popped out. I called Steeda and was told it should be checked on often. Now I'm waiting for hardware kit and a replacement halfshaft :\

 

[shogun32]

Now I'm waiting for hardware kit and a replacement halfshaft

ouch. was threadlock used? Blue or Orange.

 

[BluePonyGT]

I'm not sure if I was just unlucky, but just wanted to provide a PSA . Once you install the bushing inserts, it is recommended to go back after 100 miles, 500 miles, and so on to check on the bolts. I got mine installed at one of their vendors and was not told about this. 1 year later, one of the bolts snapped and the insert popped out. I called Steeda and was told it should be checked on often. Now I'm waiting for hardware kit and a replacement halfshaft :\

Ugh...what happened to your half-shaft? All I've heard is a re-torque of the front/rear bolts at 100 miles. The rears are 129 Ft. Lbs. The fronts are WAY less, but you can't really reach them with a torque wrench anyway. So a really big wrench and give it some pulls.

The IRS bolts in the front are 129 ft. lbs as well. By the way all of these are supposed to be put in with blue locktite, but at 129 ft. lbs they generally shouldn't go anywhere anyway. The fronts - they could definitely loosen up.

 

[UglyMutt]

I agree with most of you on the diff whine. I just did a stop the hop kit and added the red diff bushings. I have some pretty noticeable diff whine now that I'm not too happy about but the car does feel good. I'm going to drive for a while and see if I get used to it. What's annoying about it is that it is a pretty high pitch whine in my case. I've had some trans whine in different cars but it wasn't that annoying because it was lower pitch.

And I bet steeda is right,... that you would have little to no increased NVH with these bushings if you ONLY have these bushings. But who does that? By the time you have the subframe braces, aluminum subframe bushing inserts, alignment kit AND diff inserts installed you are going to have less options on where that vibration and noise can go without being noticed. It's just the nature of reducing the isolation and compliance of a system.

Oh and anyone who wants to be able to torque everything. You can do it with an offset adapter. You will need to read about how these change the torque but I'm not going to get into the weeds about that here. They make closed end, open end and some hook types ive used in the past.

https://www.mcmaster.com/torque-wrench-adapters/box-end-tight-clearance-offset-sockets-10/

 

[turbofiveoh]

To anybody installing these diff inserts I would strongly recommend installing the BMR sleeve and bolt kit while you're there.

Aside from the sloppy factory diff bushing the factory fastener is undersized when compared to the bushing sleeve creating a hot dog in a hallway situation thus adding to the shear forces on the fastener. Here's a good thread about it: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...al-mount-bolts-issues-resolutions-pics.74891/

 

[Michaelrod813]

From Steeda USA
take 3-4 hours to install and force you to permanently modify the rear IRS suspension with a sawzall, Steeda's does not! Our kit installs in under 1 hour, adds little to no increase in NVH , is adjustable and can be easily removed - it simply doesn't get any better than this!

Blue Mustang thanks for the heads up. I will pass this along to Steeda UK

Steeda Tech

This is so far from true, these add a LOT of NVH lol.

 

[GTP]

I had to remove the front subframe bolts completely, and loosen the rear bolts quite a bit to get the front to come down far enough. Obviously, just make sure you are supporting the differential with a jack and let it come down slowly

I had at least 1/2" gap at the rear subframe bolts, and the fronts completely removed. There was no way to start the shorter front bolts.

Thanks - I have done is already twice (loosened subrame / removed bolts) while replacing rear springs and installing subframe bushing supports but I've seen people saying that that front diff bolts are difficult to install on 18+ since whatever limits the space there is different from 15-17. Thanks again.

On my 2019 car, the gas tank and its heat shield are so close to the subframe that there is only enough space to slip the red bushings in place, but not enough to put in the bolt, including starting from any angle.

It seems to me that the entire subrame would have to be dropped, but I've always had at least two blue bolts installed, and I really don't care to do that just because of this mod.

What's the secret to get the shorter front bolts in?

 

[GTP]

Update:
I gave it another attempt yesterday to get the front inserts and bolts installed. What a waste of 5 hours! I called Steeda twice and talked to their tech (a good guy), but none of his suggestions provided any more clearance between the fuel tank and subframe.

I removed the Steeda subframe alignment sleeves from the blue rear bolts, and lowered the subframe by about 1/2".
I removed the front blue subframe bolts entirely. (With jack support.)
I disconnected the shocks from the control arms.

I suggest Steeda offer a "half kit" at half the price: rear 110mm bolts & washers, and 2 puck inserts.

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