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PPF, Ceramic Coating, and Window Tint

SuperSnake427

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I know that there have been a lot of questions about PPF (I've read all of the threads). People generally seem to like XPEL Ultimate Plus 10, which is what I plan on doing. This is the first time that I have done this on any of my cars, so I have a few questions:

- My shop recommended that I use XPEL Fusion for the ceramic coating over the PPF. I couldn't find anyone that had used this. Thoughts/experience?
- When they do PPF, the shop that I liked the most said that they take off body panels to wrap them. Is this common?
- What are people paying for PPF (full car), ceramic, and paint correction? I have a few quotes from Southern California vendors and they are about $7k -- seems like quite a bit more than what I hear from some of you!
- What window tint and % are you using?

Anything I should be concerned about? Thanks!
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Twisted O CFTP

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I know that there have been a lot of questions about PPF (I've read all of the threads). People generally seem to like XPEL Ultimate Plus 10, which is what I plan on doing. This is the first time that I have done this on any of my cars, so I have a few questions:

- My shop recommended that I use XPEL Fusion for the ceramic coating over the PPF. I couldn't find anyone that had used this. Thoughts/experience?
- When they do PPF, the shop that I liked the most said that they take off body panels to wrap them. Is this common?
- What are people paying for PPF (full car), ceramic, and paint correction? I have a few quotes from Southern California vendors and they are about $7k -- seems like quite a bit more than what I hear from some of you!
- What window tint and % are you using?

Anything I should be concerned about? Thanks!
Ceramic coat is ok but wont protect from flying rocks or other debris on road or track. The plastic film in xpel is self healing if you scratch it all u have to do is use a heat gun also if u do get a rock or pebble chip with expel u can use a heat gun and peel off the film with ceramic u would have to sand a respray the clear ceramic had limitations and is not as hard as u think it will protect but to a degree most exotics have the expel clear film on the front clip and sides to protect from tire rubber or rocks as far as tint they now have a ceramic tint which stops almost all the ultraviolet rays
 

Snakebite

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My experience....Xpel or 3M works best to ward off flying debris that will chip your paint.

I am not sold on ceramic coatings as chip protection, but rather a process that enhances the paint finish.

As far as tint, I typically go with 20%, which is relative to the back glass of a stock SUV. Darker than 20% may be a citation risk, but I never had an issue with 20.
 

2020GT500

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I have ceramic on Xpel over the entire car with 30% tint for $6K CAD. Edges are wrapped where practical without removing panels, and emblems were cut around. Likely 98% coverage without going all in for 100% coverage.
 

Skwibbs

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I was thinking about this exact thing pretty much. Any great shops around Orlando?
 

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Rev Happy

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I know that there have been a lot of questions about PPF (I've read all of the threads). People generally seem to like XPEL Ultimate Plus 10, which is what I plan on doing. This is the first time that I have done this on any of my cars, so I have a few questions:

- My shop recommended that I use XPEL Fusion for the ceramic coating over the PPF. I couldn't find anyone that had used this. Thoughts/experience?
- When they do PPF, the shop that I liked the most said that they take off body panels to wrap them. Is this common?
- What are people paying for PPF (full car), ceramic, and paint correction? I have a few quotes from Southern California vendors and they are about $7k -- seems like quite a bit more than what I hear from some of you!
- What window tint and % are you using?

Anything I should be concerned about? Thanks!
My quote was around that as well for paint correction, full car PPF (STEK), and ceramic coat. I had 20% on my 96 Cobra and it was a good medium...not too light and not too dark even at night. You'll definitely get tickets out here in LA though with 20% so I'm probably going 35 this time around.
 

kilobravo

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Drew: One thing you need to know is that PPF is not the end all of protection. (There is no such thing short of leaving her in the garage. :-)

Yes, it will prevent very small dings from very small particles but anything bigger than a BB at speed will penetrate the film and it will not heal. The tear will be there for the duration. It's certainly better than nothing but it isn't a force field. :-)

Ceramic is not designed nor intended to be chip protection. It's main purpose is to prevent dirt from sticking to the paint (and this is why installers recommend ceramic on top of PPF, it makes it much easier to clean the vehicle.) Additionally, it enhances the depth of the shine (with or without film.)

The main problems with film are:

1) Once it's on, you can no longer do any paint correction which is why PPF and Ceramic treatments are so expensive. The installers will do the necessary paint correction work first before either are applied. This is also true of ceramic but it does wear off over time, film obviously does not.

2) Film ages as does the adhesive and edges will eventually come loose and attract dirt that also gets to hang around for the duration as it's almost impossible to remove. (The remaining adhesive holds the dirt particles.)

I'm frankly tired of film and will be doing ceramic myself here before too long but I need to polish her one more time to get the clear coat to my satisfaction. :-)

This will be my first experience with ceramic but after watching a number of videos, I'm positive it's NBD to apply to the car, it just takes a little patience and attention to detail.
 
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Tomster

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PPF these days is good stuff. These days, it is durable and will protect your vehicle. If you track, it is a must have. I believe Xpel is 10 mil thick. All ceramics do is put about a 1 micron thick layer of 9H hardness. Ford is notorious for thin paint. The ceramics will give the paint more durability and protection from scratches and nicks, but not like PPF will. One benefit of ceramic coatings are the ease of maintenance and the long lasting enhancement to the paints appearance. Most who don't want to deal with some of the aspects of PPF, opt to do partial PPF and then ceramic coat the rest of the car that does not have film applied.

The first GT350 that I owned went to the track with no PPF. It did a number on the paint. My yellow GT350R has full Xpel. The paint is perfect and the Xpel is very close to perfect as well.

When the 500 comes, It will probably get full PPF. If I cant swing the price tag for full coverage, then I will probably take my own advice and use Xpel on the whole front end, A Pillars, roof, bumper, rear impact area, wing, etc and I will Cquartz the rest of the car.
 

Tomster

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I was thinking about this exact thing pretty much. Any great shops around Orlando?
I can tell you who is the best, but holy crap, he is expensive. He quoted me $6700 for a full car Xpel
 

Tomster

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I know that there have been a lot of questions about PPF (I've read all of the threads). People generally seem to like XPEL Ultimate Plus 10, which is what I plan on doing. This is the first time that I have done this on any of my cars, so I have a few questions:

- My shop recommended that I use XPEL Fusion for the ceramic coating over the PPF. I couldn't find anyone that had used this. Thoughts/experience?
- When they do PPF, the shop that I liked the most said that they take off body panels to wrap them. Is this common?
- What are people paying for PPF (full car), ceramic, and paint correction? I have a few quotes from Southern California vendors and they are about $7k -- seems like quite a bit more than what I hear from some of you!
- What window tint and % are you using?

Anything I should be concerned about? Thanks!
I have never heard of removing body panels to wrap them. Most shops will wrap the edges (which is what you want), but you don't have to remove panels. I have heard of shops removing emblems and vinyl stripes, but not panels.

My area, the best guy I know asked $6700 for a full car. in '17, a full car xpel cost me $5300
 

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kilobravo

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Tom: It comes down to how you drive the car me thinks. Were I a "Tracker" (as opposed to a Trekker," <grin>) I would certainly at least film the front end as you described and probably the rear fenders, too.

But for those who do not plan to race, a full film job is fine, but unnecessary. Get the impact areas covered and keep the paint nude on the rest would be my recommendation to most.

I've never seen 10mil Xpel (or any other PPF brand,) but that's too thick for me. Fine for headlights, bumper, up front stuff but I wouldn't want it that thick on the painted surfaces.

As I say, it's a personal decision but I think I am going to like a ceramic car better than my filmed cars....for my kind of driving.
 

Skwibbs

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I can tell you who is the best, but holy crap, he is expensive. He quoted me $6700 for a full car Xpel
Honestly that's less than I was expecting to pay. Nothing but the best for our babies, yeah? I'm all ears.

I have seen ceramic work wonders before too, and I don't plan on driving her around a ton, track or no track. I wonder what the highest quality, thickest, longest lasting ceramic is. You know, as an option to think about.
 

kilobravo

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Skwibbs: While film thickness IS important, if applied correctly, a single coat of ceramic is no thicker than a few molecules of silicon. Thicker is NOT better for ceramic unless, you repeat the entire process in the same fashion, multiple times. That's what I plan to do...double coat.

Otherwise, the "H" you read about is hardness just like steel, diamonds, etc. It will resist scratches better than an unprepared clear coat but it certainly will not take the abuse that film will withstand. Not even close. So, if you want "chip protection," at least film from the A pillars forward and ceramic the entire car after filming, (or have it done.) But it's not rocket science, it just takes time, patience, and attention to detail. However, if you are unable to do paint correction yourself, have it done along with the film and ceramic. That's my advice, for what it's worth.
 

Jmeo

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I went with Xpel full wrap, and Xpel ceramic over the PPF and it was $6700. I do not track my car, but I wanted the best protection I could get. I have had vehicles ceramic coated a few times, but I think of it more as an alternative to waxing, not really for protection of scratches and chips.

No body panels came off. I purchased a replacement pair of fender emblems so the fenders could be one piece, and not be cut out around the emblems. All the film pieces are stencils the installer will cut from a computer designed file with a film cutting "printer", then applied to the car.

I am 1,000 % glad I spent the money. My last mustangs sand blasted the area directly in front of the rear wheels in less than 5,000 miles. Personally I did not want to see lines, so I had the whole car done.

The fact that my stripes are covered is the part I like the most. They are 100% protected, and I can wash and dry the car like they were painted stripes. I will never have to worry about the vinyl lifting now.

I was prepared to spend $10,000 to get the POTT stripes, so spending $6,700 to protect the $1,000 stripes is still a bargain, as far as I am concerned. That said, I would want film to protect my $10,000 stripes anyway!

My advice is, if you have the means, go full cover PPF, with ceramic, and don't look back.
 
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Skwibbs

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Thanks KB and Jmeo, just the advice I was looking for. Now to just find a fantastic trustworthy shop.

One of my concerns with only doing the film on parts of the car is noticing the difference between the filmed panels and the uncovered ones. I'm quite OCD and my eyes are too good for my own sanity.
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