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PP Torsion rear causing car to kick out sideway to right?

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Sean709

Sean709

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Sweet. Around here in CT near me there isnt any shops that good. Most are tire shops with help that probably get to work by walking to it. No clue and I dont even trust them to mount a tire.
I am gonna have to look around maybe a little out of my area for a good alignment shop and as you said tell them what #s I want and the cars use.
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K4fxd

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Use google search and look for a performance mustang shop or a shop that specializes in alignments.

Some ricer shops are real good too, so don't dismiss them. Ask some questions about handling and if they say "we want your car to handle the best it can" that is the shop to go to.

Ask if they set the suspension after each adjustment. If you get a blank stare find another shop.
 

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Not knowing factory specs but just my personal preferences...
I always like my cars to be slightly toed-in. Never toed out.
1.8 neg camber doesn't seem excessive to me. People have run a lot more than that on a road course.
 

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If you want to rule the Torsen in or out as the issue you could always change the diff fluid for a higher viscosity, that changes the toque bias.
how so? Torsen is a MECHANICAL link between left and right. It doesn't give a damn about oil viscosity to 'lock up' or not. Once it's locked it's essentially a solid axle and drives both wheels equally.
 

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1.8 neg camber doesn't seem excessive to me. People have run a lot more than that on a road course.

For me that is a fine number even for the street. It is not ideal for starting line traction at a drag strip or street digs.
 

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Not knowing factory specs but just my personal preferences...
I always like my cars to be slightly toed-in. Never toed out.
1.8 neg camber doesn't seem excessive to me. People have run a lot more than that on a road course.
 

Gregory347

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how so? Torsen is a MECHANICAL link between left and right. It doesn't give a damn about oil viscosity to 'lock up' or not. Once it's locked it's essentially a solid axle and drives both wheels equally.
A Torsen differential is affected by viscosity. Friction is a factor in its operation.
 

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I'll root out the articles but I taffeta the torque bias, varies it quite a bit
 
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I'll root out the articles but I taffeta the torque bias, varies it quite a bit
Heres 2 screen shots from maximum motorsport which sells it.
Screenshot_20201210-124101_Samsung Internet.jpg
Screenshot_20201210-124101_Samsung Internet.jpg
Screenshot_20201210-124118_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
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Heres 2 screen shots from maximum motorsport which sells it.
Screenshot_20201210-124101_Samsung Internet.jpg
Screenshot_20201210-124101_Samsung Internet.jpg
Screenshot_20201210-124118_Samsung Internet.jpg
So the way this reads and how a car launches with left front up more as always with the motor rotation and putting more traction to right rear then that looks to be the one that will get power to it and limit left rear tire torque. Seems like that's what my car is doing as the rear end kicks out to the right and the car nose goes left. If I'm understanding this correctly. Maybe this is causing alot of these people to over correct and lose it.
 

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So I made a appointment with a shop that does alignments on performance and road race cars etc. Efi logics in CT. Bought some Nitto 555r2s and thinking about getting some aftermarket adjustable toe links and putting in before the alignment as I'm wondering if the OEM bushing are letting the toe move a bit. What I'm wondering is others on hear with boosted cars and torsion rears and how they are making out with straight line launching and if this is typical. If so I really wish my car didnt have the pp and will be replacing the 3.73 torsion with a locker and lower numerical ratio which the car needs anyway.
 

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will be replacing the 3.73 torsion with a locker and lower numerical ratio which the car needs anyway.
they'll pay handsomely for it in the EU. And I'm sure there are people who will gladly take the entire pumpkin off your hands.

You should be talking @SteedaTech
 
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I've got a road race set up on mine, mostly steeda parts.My alignment is .10 toe in each side on the rear for a total of .20, thrust angle 0

When on the drag strip and I get rubber an gear changes my car goes straight.

I've got the clutch type LSD.

Ive got a real good alignment shop and I tell them a number they give it to me. It took over 3 hours for the last alignment but it is nuts even side to side.

After the test drive they bring it back on the rack to make sure the settings stayed put.
So my car has the REAR toe OUT about 2.2 total with .09 on left and .13 on right which is within spec but for launching it should actually be have toe IN about 1.3 per side by looking at a few old threads with quotes from Kelly at bmr. I have adjustable toe links coming and going to install before getting alignment. For a street strip car on rear taking some of my rear camber down from -1.8 per side down to around .08 to 1.0 for better contact patch and bringing the rear toe in to -1.0 to -1.3 equal per side instead of the toe out and 0 thrust angle. Seems like as it is with my cars current alignment with rear toe out plus the tire wanting toe out at launch is one of the issues possibly.
 

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but for launching it should actually be have toe IN about 1.3 per side by looking at a few old threads with quotes from Kelly at bmr.
please read an article on the difference between camber and toe. you are mixing them up. Or you're being incredibly sloppy with the decimal point.
 

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Looking at your alignment sheet your left rear is .09 toe out and your right rear is .13 toe in

This will cause the car to go right on a launch or gear change.
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