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Poly Bushings in Rear

NeverSatisfied

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So I don't see this talked about much but I needed to replace my worn toe link ball joints on my '21 base GT in the rear knuckles. While I was in there I installed the poly rear cradle inserts and poly bushings in the rear lower control arms from Steeda.

I have gone with lockouts, spherical bearings, etc in the past on my 2019 PP2 and wasn't pleased with the increased NVH.

So far, poly seems like a good compromise for those that pound out road miles and don't want added NVH. I can't sense any increased NVH from the upgrade. I also drilled the control arm through to the bushing inner sleeve so I can grease them.

We'll see how they hold up...

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shogun32

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Make sure you use fully synth grease
 

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Do you have any tips for doing the toe link bearings ? :like:

WD :like:
 
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Do you have any tips for doing the toe link bearings ? :like:

WD :like:
remove the knuckle and do it in a harbor freight press.
 

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how did you unbolt the control arm on jackstands? i cant get enough leverage under there.
 

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how did you unbolt the control arm on jackstands? i cant get enough leverage under there.
knuckle removed, shock removed, pivot axle out of the way, 12 point box end wrench, and some love taps with mallet to get it started. It’s a terrible spot to get at.

One of reasons I swapped to poly is I can now torque at droop and no issues with torquing at ride height.
 

GTP

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how did you unbolt the control arm on jackstands? i cant get enough leverage under there.
I bought a 24mm gearwrench. It was big enough to have strong internal ratchet. I unbolted the toe link at the inner end. Then I had access to the big 24mm bolt and after placing the wrench onto it, I smacked it with my dead blow hammer to crack it loose. From there I backed out the bolt but not all the way. You have to stop before there is not enough clearance to remove the wrench, because the ratcheting works only one way! If you can find the switchable gearwrench in 24mm, buy that.
 

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Some compliance can be a good thing.
 

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I had to troubleshoot such a "rattle" sound in the rear, jacking my car up 5 times. It turned out to be "sticking" spherical bearings in the pair of aftermarket toe links. If you have those, and you also have your OEM links, then put them back in to see if that cures it.

I am on new J&M toe links now.
 
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I was running the fp bushings but they were worn out. I replaced with a new set. I had to do wheel bearings too they were getting crunchy. I think the heat from those inverted rear brakes really takes a toll on things—I’ve given up on the rear caliper dust boots and just run without them.
 
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Ca you guys please post some pics of the torn boots for reference?
 
 








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