Performance Pack remorse?

[OppoLock]

Some good info here. It looks like I can skip the PP altogether. Especially if the suspension bits aren't up to snuff. A good tower brace/adjustable shocks/sway bars combo should do the trick.

Coilovers and tires would do the trick.

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[gsxr1300]

how much fluid does the mt-82 hold?

 

[SeventhWard]

Like many guys who ordered an Auto and didn't get the Limited Edition and didn't wait for the rumored Auto PP in 2016, I'm very curious to learn about an aftermarket setup that outperforms the PP. I've read about guys who've added their own K-Braces & Strut Tower Bars for a few hundred bucks, which sounds great. What I really want to hear about is aftermarket rear sway bars and a full suspension package to rival the factory PP.

-SeventhWard

 

[Swoope]

not sure what anyone wants.

but the stock car with a better set of shocks is more than most can handle..

pp = brakes, springs, sways, gear, cooling..

on the street you need, better car control / none of the above..

beers

 

[JRitt]

I have to agree with Swoope. If I was buying a GT for street-only use, I would do the following: Drive a standard GT and GT/PP back-to-back. If I liked the way the PP car handled better, I'd buy the PP and sell off the parts I didn't need. If I was satisfied with the way the standard GT handled and didn't plan to go aftermarket, I'd pass on the PP, as there's not a lot in it that's of great benefit for road use.

If I was planning to track my GT, I would definitely buy the PP for the additional $2500 and do the following:

• Strut-tower Brace- Keep it for the extra stiffening
• Larger Radiator- A valuable performance addition when doing hot laps that would cost at least $500+ if you went aftermarket.
• Unique Chassis Tuning- great, thanks
• Larger Front and Rear Sway Bars- Keep them unless I didn't like the suspension setup on track
• Heavier Front Springs- Same as the above
• K-Brace- Keep it for added stiffening
• Brembo Front Brakes- Sell the front brake calipers and discs and get an aftermarket brake kit that had a smaller disc, was more efficient, and would fit under 18" wheels of my choice. You'd probably get at least $1,000 for them on the used market.
• Staggerd Wheels (19x9 and 19x9.5)- Sell them for a lighter 18" package that I liked better. I'm not sure what the OEM parts would go for, but I'm guessing $1,000 at least. I'm sure there are plenty of standard GT or EcoBoost guys who would like them.
• Unique Stability Control Tuning- Good
• Torsen Helical Differential/3.73 Gears- As others have said, very nice additions that should help considerably when trying to get out of corners and accelerate on the track.
• Gauge Pack- Cool
• Spoiler Delete- I was never a big spoiler guy anyway

If you bought the PP and sold the brakes and the wheel/tire package, you'd nearly pay off the cost of the entire PP. If you didn't like the shocks, springs, and sways, you'd likely be able to sell those off for at least $500.

So for track use, it seems like it's almost a no-brainer to order the PP and then sell off the components you don't want or need, and replace them with ones more suited to taste. IMO the PP is a great value at $2500, and definitely a bargain vs. what it would cost to buy the individual parts. The rear end and radiator are really nice additions that are a pain in the arse to do after the fact, since they involve considerable labor. Since there are so many other trim levels, I don't think you'd ever have any trouble getting solid money back for the OEM wheels/tires, brakes, shocks/springs/sways from the PP. There are always guys looking for the OEM parts off of the higher trim levels, and that holds true whether it's a Mustang, Vette, 911, M Car, or AMG.

 

[klumpikat]

I have to agree with Swoope. If I was buying a GT for street-only use, I would do the following: Drive a standard GT and GT/PP back-to-back. If I liked the way the PP car handled better, I'd buy the PP and sell off the parts I didn't need. If I was satisfied with the way the standard GT handled and didn't plan to go aftermarket, I'd pass on the PP, as there's not a lot in it that's of great benefit for road use.

If I was planning to track my GT, I would definitely buy the PP for the additional $2500 and do the following:

• Strut-tower Brace- Keep it for the extra stiffening
• Larger Radiator- A valuable performance addition when doing hot laps that would cost at least $500+ if you went aftermarket.
• Unique Chassis Tuning- great, thanks
• Larger Front and Rear Sway Bars- Keep them unless I didn't like the suspension setup on track
• Heavier Front Springs- Same as the above
• K-Brace- Keep it for added stiffening
• Brembo Front Brakes- Sell the front brake calipers and discs and get an aftermarket brake kit that had a smaller disc, was more efficient, and would fit under 18" wheels of my choice. You'd probably get at least $1,000 for them on the used market.
• Staggerd Wheels (19x9 and 19x9.5)- Sell them for a lighter 18" package that I liked better. I'm not sure what the OEM parts would go for, but I'm guessing $1,000 at least. I'm sure there are plenty of standard GT or EcoBoost guys who would like them.
• Unique Stability Control Tuning- Good
• Torsen Helical Differential/3.73 Gears- As others have said, very nice additions that should help considerably when trying to get out of corners and accelerate on the track.
• Gauge Pack- Cool
• Spoiler Delete- I was never a big spoiler guy anyway

If you bought the PP and sold the brakes and the wheel/tire package, you'd nearly pay off the cost of the entire PP. If you didn't like the shocks, springs, and sways, you'd likely be able to sell those off for at least $500.

So for track use, it seems like it's almost a no-brainer to order the PP and then sell off the components you don't want or need, and replace them with ones more suited to taste. IMO the PP is a great value at $2500, and definitely a bargain vs. what it would cost to buy the individual parts. The rear end and radiator are really nice additions that are a pain in the arse to do after the fact, since they involve considerable labor. Since there are so many other trim levels, I don't think you'd ever have any trouble getting solid money back for the OEM wheels/tires, brakes, shocks/springs/sways from the PP. There are always guys looking for the OEM parts off of the higher trim levels, and that holds true whether it's a Mustang, Vette, 911, M Car, or AMG.

If anyone wants to sell off their Brembos and lives in SoCal, please IM me with a quote.;)

 

[Jeepwx03]

Selling off parts you didn't need could hurt the resell value.

 

[klumpikat]

Selling off parts you didn't need could hurt the resell value.

Aren't you rushing things? ;)

 

[Jeepwx03]

Aren't you rushing things? [emoji14];)

Not really. Changing a car from stock narrows your resell market. That is why so many return cars to stock when selling or trading, including me.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Not really. Changing a car from stock narrows your resell market. That is why so many return cars to stock when selling or trading, including me.

If you like the car well enough to keep it past any available loan term, and make thoughtful mods, I doubt there'd be much difference.


Norm

 

[Paulie]

I don't think in so Ca. you could have too much brake power, but then again I don't drive with boots on.
Too much cooling... um ok, but power is heat. Guess you plan on leaving the engine stock.

 

[Kowalski]

This forum is a trip. No matter what pointed question folks asked on separate threads, the resulting conversation is the same. LOL

 

[klumpikat]

This forum is a trip. No matter what pointed question folks asked on separate threads, the resulting conversation is the same. LOL

You mean when someone predictably jumps in and says something meaningless like this?

(Just messin' with ya.;))

 

[Grintch]

One can order gears by themselves. And the base brakes are fine for the street. I've driven three GTs so far and they handle the guess-timated 360 at the rear wheels. I have to keep an eye on the Ford Racing for some suspension-only kit.

If you are only street driving, the stock GT suspension is fine. If you ever see a road course, the brakes matter A LOT. Followed by the Torsen diff. Either of which would likely cost close to the PP's price premuim with labor.

 

[SVTFreak]

If you are only street driving, the stock GT suspension is fine. If you ever see a road course, the brakes matter A LOT. Followed by the Torsen diff. Either of which would likely cost close to the PP's price premuim with labor.

This.

90% of the people here that think the need PP don't. The brakes are the biggest plus to it for a street car. I have it only cause it came on the LE. Although I admit I love the brakes. I would opt for PP for the brakes alone if your future included a blower or turbo (and you want the manual). You can build up a pretty big head of steam and good brakes are a great thing.

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