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Per Ford (officially) the 2011-2019 F150/Mustang 5.0 “Typewriter Tick” is a normal characteristic

RagmopInKona

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An easy way to tell if that were the case would be to disable/disconnect the oil pressure bypass that lowers oil pressure at low RPM.
Not really at it is flow over time. As in how fast the oil in the hydraulic follower can flow out of the unit over time. Faster rpm leaves less time for it to flow out and bottom out. It isn't psi it is flow over time.
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The BBQ/typewriter tick isn't coming from the valve train. The valve train may make some of its own normal noise, but it's not the typewriter tick. If it was, it would be evident that it was in the top of the engine.

The random typewriter tick is more evident in the bottom end (under the car behind the front wheels). When Ford use to fix the ticking under warranty, they usually just replaced the short block, not the heads and valve train.
 
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blk_bean_s550

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An easy way to tell if that were the case would be to disable/disconnect the oil pressure bypass that lowers oil pressure at low RPM.
I did this to quiet lifter tick I was having at idle, the lifter tick went away once it started getting proper oil pressure. The BBQ tick is still present, mostly on the driver's side and low, like it's coming from the bottom of the block or the oil pan. It's not super loud but it's definitely apparent if you listen for it
 

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I did this to quiet lifter tick I was having at idle, the lifter tick went away once it started getting proper oil pressure. The BBQ tick is still present, mostly on the driver's side and low, like it's coming from the bottom of the block or the oil pan. It's not super loud but it's definitely apparent if you listen for it
How did you disable the oil bypass and did it throw any lights on the dash??
 

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blk_bean_s550

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How did you disable the oil bypass and did it throw any lights on the dash??
I just unplugged it, I think I shared a picture further up the thread but I'm not 100% sure, it's been a while.

No CEL's, doesn't show up on the dash in diagnostic mode as a code either.
 

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Well I changed the oil in my 21 Mach 1 yesterday at 1650 miles. I wasn't sure if it had been changed before because I bought it used with 1555 miles on it. So it had been changed before as there was a mess of oil on the inside of the belly tray. I bought a nice oil filter removal tool. but it didn't fit the Mach 1. I think the oil filter is closer to the chassis because of the oil cooler. Not sure though. But anyway it sure was a pain to get to the filter. I had to go and get a cheap tool to remove the filter. Finally got it off. Used a Motorcraft FL 500S filter along with 10 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-30 Synthetic Blend oil. Glad to report no tick and it didn't tick before the oil change either. I did pre-fill the oil filter and cranked the engine over (by holding the gas pedal to the floor) to build oil pressure before starting it. So far all is good.
 

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Well I changed the oil in my 21 Mach 1 yesterday at 1650 miles. I wasn't sure if it had been changed before because I bought it used with 1555 miles on it. So it had been changed before as there was a mess of oil on the inside of the belly tray. I bought a nice oil filter removal tool. but it didn't fit the Mach 1. I think the oil filter is closer to the chassis because of the oil cooler. Not sure though. But anyway it sure was a pain to get to the filter. I had to go and get a cheap tool to remove the filter. Finally got it off. Used a Motorcraft FL 500S filter along with 10 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-30 Synthetic Blend oil. Glad to report no tick and it didn't tick before the oil change either. I did pre-fill the oil filter and cranked the engine over (by holding the gas pedal to the floor) to build oil pressure before starting it. So far all is good.
When I had my first oil change they told me if you run the Motorcraft 5w-30 synthetic blend you won't develop tick. Obviously you have to assume they are trying to get you to buy their product but, it does make sense. Synthetic blend is probably a little "stickier" than full synthetic. Might be another factor when preventing tick.
 

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When I had my first oil change they told me if you run the Motorcraft 5w-30 synthetic blend you won't develop tick. Obviously you have to assume they are trying to get you to buy their product but, it does make sense. Synthetic blend is probably a little "stickier" than full synthetic. Might be another factor when preventing tick.
Interesting.... I m at 4100 and one oil change and 1/3 bottle ceratec. I used the motorcraft blend. No tic, yet.
 

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Just bought a '19 Bullitt with 23K miles and it definitely has piston slap when cold. Good thing is, it's not nearly as bad when it warms up. The one LS-powered car I had also had piston slap when cold. Don't remember if my Boss 302 did, but those had forged pistons. No 2000rpm tick though.

I'm just going to keep driving it. It feels like the power is there, and it's not burning oil at any noticeable rate thus far.
 

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What's interesting about my car is it only does the BBQ tick when it's warming up, not when it's warmed up. Somewhere around 180FCHT I can hear it if I drive past a wall or something that reflects the sound. Then magically when it's fully warmed up it's gone again. Very odd.
 

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What's interesting about my car is it only does the BBQ tick when it's warming up, not when it's warmed up. Somewhere around 180FCHT I can hear it if I drive past a wall or something that reflects the sound. Then magically when it's fully warmed up it's gone again. Very odd.
That sounds more like piston slap. Pistons are a bit loose in the cylinders until the pistons get hot and expand causing the clearance to decrease. Piston slap is not common on Coyotes, but doesn't mean it can't happen depending on how the engine was manufactured.
 
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Well I changed the oil in my 21 Mach 1 yesterday at 1650 miles. I wasn't sure if it had been changed before because I bought it used with 1555 miles on it. So it had been changed before as there was a mess of oil on the inside of the belly tray. I bought a nice oil filter removal tool. but it didn't fit the Mach 1. I think the oil filter is closer to the chassis because of the oil cooler. Not sure though. But anyway it sure was a pain to get to the filter. I had to go and get a cheap tool to remove the filter. Finally got it off. Used a Motorcraft FL 500S filter along with 10 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-30 Synthetic Blend oil. Glad to report no tick and it didn't tick before the oil change either. I did pre-fill the oil filter and cranked the engine over (by holding the gas pedal to the floor) to build oil pressure before starting it. So far all is good.
My wife’s convertible had a ton of space AFTER i took the cover and brace off.
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