coupe3w
Well-Known Member
I think the Mach 1 has a different belly pan.My wife’s convertible had a ton of space AFTER i took the cover and brace off.
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I think the Mach 1 has a different belly pan.My wife’s convertible had a ton of space AFTER i took the cover and brace off.
It could but I didn’t remove the front big belly pan/air dam just the small one behind it with the brace and it opens up all that area.I think the Mach 1 has a different belly pan.
Normally I'd agree, but it doesn't do it actually cold, so unless it's taking 10+ minutes to start slapping then I'm pretty doubtful thats what it is. It sounds exactly like the BBQ tick I've heard on hereThat sounds more like piston slap. Pistons are a bit loose in the cylinders until the pistons get hot and expand causing the clearance to decrease. Piston slap is not common on Coyotes, but doesn't mean it can't happen depending on how the engine was manufactured.
I had a Corvette that had slight piston slap. upon initial cold start-up it was quiet, then as it warmed-up I could hear the piston slap start, and after a few minutes into warm-up it would slowly get quieter and then go away completely. But if your Coyote isn't ticking after it's warmed up, then it's probably not the BBQ tick going on during warm-up because even the Ford SSM 49761 says the BBQ occurs after the engine warms up above 150F.Normally I'd agree, but it doesn't do it actually cold, so unless it's taking 10+ minutes to start slapping then I'm pretty doubtful thats what it is. It sounds exactly like the BBQ tick I've heard on here
Hmm, first confirmation I've ever seen of an additive being used in the engine oil from the factory. Some people suspected it, but nobody has ever confirmed it. More reason not to drop out the factory oil so soon like some people do.So, I finally ran out of Ford pass points and I changed my own oil this time. Used Rotorcraft Synthetic Blend 5w-30, primed the oil filter, and started with the gas pedal fully down to build the pressure. Unfortunately, after I rolled the car off the ramps I noticed very slight BBQ tick . Oh well, I went to the parts store and grabbed a bottle of Ceratec. I had to drain about half a quart of oil out as I filled it to the top not accounting for the Ceratec. Dumped the whole bottle in and almost instantaneously the noise was gone. I have to say that stuff works like a charm, it even quieted the valve train noise.
So I got to wondering, why does the Ceratec instantly fix a "problem" that ford said is completely normal. I asked my co-worker who was the lead Ford engineer that did the coyote engine and this is what he said.
"The ticking noises are genuinely not a problem, unless it isn't actually the ticking noises (Typewriter or BBQ). The pistons are made from aluminum which expand and contract as temperature changes. When it is cold the pistons wiggle a bit (less than millimeters) in the cylinder walls causing the noises you hear. When a new mustang 5.0 rolls of the line it has 5w-30 oil and an additive that we call XL-17. It specifically targets the friction points between metal to metal contact and provides a lubricated lining while cold. This helps the new engines to break in. This is also why no new mustang has any ticking noises. Almost every coyote will develop some noises, these are aluminum blocks and are not very sound absorbing. Most cases won't be loud enough for most people to even notice, but some may be louder. Adding Ceratec will more than likely cure any ticking noises, but I can't say it will fix any problem as the noises do not cause any."
I hope this helps anyone on the thread. It certainly gave me peace of mind. I think I'll be using a bottle every oil change, after all it can only help the engine! Cheers!
I still feel like I would change mine at 1000 just to keep all of the wear material minimized floating around in the engine. But I’d definitely be putting ceratec in on every oil change!Hmm, first confirmation I've ever seen of an additive being used in the engine oil from the factory. Some people suspected it, but nobody has ever confirmed it. More reason not to drop out the factory oil so soon like some people do.
You probably didn't need the whole bottle. I just use 1/3 of a bottle for it to get rid of it.So, I finally ran out of Ford pass points and I changed my own oil this time. Used Rotorcraft Synthetic Blend 5w-30, primed the oil filter, and started with the gas pedal fully down to build the pressure. Unfortunately, after I rolled the car off the ramps I noticed very slight BBQ tick . Oh well, I went to the parts store and grabbed a bottle of Ceratec. I had to drain about half a quart of oil out as I filled it to the top not accounting for the Ceratec. Dumped the whole bottle in and almost instantaneously the noise was gone. I have to say that stuff works like a charm, it even quieted the valve train noise.
So I got to wondering, why does the Ceratec instantly fix a "problem" that ford said is completely normal. I asked my co-worker who was the lead Ford engineer that did the coyote engine and this is what he said.
"The ticking noises are genuinely not a problem, unless it isn't actually the ticking noises (Typewriter or BBQ). The pistons are made from aluminum which expand and contract as temperature changes. When it is cold the pistons wiggle a bit (less than millimeters) in the cylinder walls causing the noises you hear. When a new mustang 5.0 rolls of the line it has 5w-30 oil and an additive that we call XL-17. It specifically targets the friction points between metal to metal contact and provides a lubricated lining while cold. This helps the new engines to break in. This is also why no new mustang has any ticking noises. Almost every coyote will develop some noises, these are aluminum blocks and are not very sound absorbing. Most cases won't be loud enough for most people to even notice, but some may be louder. Adding Ceratec will more than likely cure any ticking noises, but I can't say it will fix any problem as the noises do not cause any."
I hope this helps anyone on the thread. It certainly gave me peace of mind. I think I'll be using a bottle every oil change, after all it can only help the engine! Cheers!
The BBQ/typewriter tick isn't cold piston slap. The BBQ tick is more pronounced after the engine warms up , even Ford says that in their SSM. Piston slap typically becomes less pronounced or goes totally away as an engine warms up.I asked my co-worker who was the lead Ford engineer that did the coyote engine and this is what he said.
"The ticking noises are genuinely not a problem, unless it isn't actually the ticking noises (Typewriter or BBQ). The pistons are made from aluminum which expand and contract as temperature changes. When it is cold the pistons wiggle a bit (less than millimeters) in the cylinder walls causing the noises you hear.
Good to know for future oil changes! After driving for another 100 miles with the Ceratec I have to say the coyote is smoother. This could be placebo effect, but I'm just glad all of the noises are completely gone!You probably didn't need the whole bottle. I just use 1/3 of a bottle for it to get rid of it.
Yes you're correct! I think he was just referring to other noises that we may hear from the coyote.The BBQ/typewriter tick isn't cold piston slap. The BBQ tick is more pronounced after the engine warms up , even Ford says that in their SSM. Piston slap typically becomes less pronounced or goes totally away as an engine warms up.
Hey man, great info....but c'mon now....you've been keeping the LEAD COYOTE ENGINEER in your back-pocket this whole time? Tsk Tsk. Does confirm some info so thanks!So, I finally ran out of Ford pass points and I changed my own oil this time. Used Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5w-30, primed the oil filter, and started with the gas pedal fully down to build the pressure. Unfortunately, after I rolled the car off the ramps I noticed very slight BBQ tick . Oh well, I went to the parts store and grabbed a bottle of Ceratec. I had to drain about half a quart of oil out as I filled it to the top not accounting for the Ceratec. Dumped the whole bottle in and almost instantaneously the noise was gone. I have to say that stuff works like a charm, it even quieted the valve train noise.
So I got to wondering, why does the Ceratec instantly fix a "problem" that ford said is completely normal. I asked my co-worker who was the lead Ford engineer that did the coyote engine and this is what he said.
"The ticking noises are genuinely not a problem, unless it isn't actually the ticking noises (Typewriter or BBQ). The pistons are made from aluminum which expand and contract as temperature changes. When it is cold the pistons wiggle a bit (less than millimeters) in the cylinder walls causing the noises you hear. When a new mustang 5.0 rolls of the line it has 5w-30 oil and an additive that we call XL-17. It specifically targets the friction points between metal to metal contact and provides a lubricated lining while cold. This helps the new engines to break in. This is also why no new mustang has any ticking noises. Almost every coyote will develop some noises, these are aluminum blocks and are not very sound absorbing. Most cases won't be loud enough for most people to even notice, but some may be louder. Adding Ceratec will more than likely cure any ticking noises, but I can't say it will fix any problem as the noises do not cause any."
I hope this helps anyone on the thread. It certainly gave me peace of mind. I think I'll be using a bottle every oil change, after all it can only help the engine! Cheers!
I try not to ask him too many questions too often, lol! He's been kind enough to tell me bits and pieces here and there. I posted one of his responses in another thread about track day temperatures! Also as an automotive engineer myself I know that sometimes we engineers can just make things worse trying to explain somethingHey man, great info....but c'mon now....you've been keeping the LEAD COYOTE ENGINEER in your back-pocket this whole time? Tsk Tsk. Does confirm some info so thanks!
That's the most interesting thing I've allegedly heard a Ford employee say about the tick!"The ticking noises are genuinely not a problem, unless it isn't actually the ticking noises (Typewriter or BBQ). The pistons are made from aluminum which expand and contract as temperature changes. When it is cold the pistons wiggle a bit (less than millimeters) in the cylinder walls causing the noises you hear. When a new mustang 5.0 rolls of the line it has 5w-30 oil and an additive that we call XL-17. It specifically targets the friction points between metal to metal contact and provides a lubricated lining while cold. This helps the new engines to break in. This is also why no new mustang has any ticking noises. Almost every coyote will develop some noises, these are aluminum blocks and are not very sound absorbing. Most cases won't be loud enough for most people to even notice, but some may be louder. Adding Ceratec will more than likely cure any ticking noises, but I can't say it will fix any problem as the noises do not cause any."
So what's his theory on what actually causes the typewriter tick? Adding a friction modifier (as little as 150 mL, which is half a bottle of Ceratec) can cause the ticking to go away almost instantly (as you witnessed). The key to why the tick goes away is obviously due to the friction level of the oil changing from the additive.Yes you're correct! I think he was just referring to other noises that we may hear from the coyote.