Overheating… again

[tosha]

Ill have to test holding the rpm tomorrow as it is late, my guess is temps will go up.

Have you tried this by any chance?

The method I remember to get rid of air pockets on old cars - start the engine on a cool car, turn on the heater at max heat and while it's warming up, hand pump (squeeze) the upper radiator hose continiously until it fully warms up and then keep pumping it more until it's too hot. That may be bs on a modern 5 liter engine, don't know. but I did it anyways when changing coolant recently and things seem to be working fine. You haven't mentioned if you tried it, so I thought I put it out there.

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[tdstuart]

“Performance water pump kit for 2011-2021 5.0L and 2015-2020 5.2L engines. Pump delivers 30% improvement in flow over standard pump.”

I’d want that 30% for a few reasons.
Performance Pack radiator for another few reasons.

The MMR mod is in and done with no easy access so there’s no going back to stock freeze plugs w/o a lot of heartache. I think there’s merit in the crossover but only if a few other fundamental flow dynamics are met.

One other thing crossed my mind to ask; stock grill, aftermarket or modified stock ?

In my eyes it's just bandaids to the problem unless there is an actual problem with the water pump or radiator.

And it's a stock grill not modified at all.

 

[tdstuart]

Have you tried this by any chance?

The method I remember to get rid of air pockets on old cars - start the engine on a cool car, turn on the heater at max heat and while it's warming up, hand pump (squeeze) the upper radiator hose continiously until it fully warms up and then keep pumping it more until it's too hot. That may be bs on a modern 5 liter engine, don't know. but I did it anyways when changing coolant recently and things seem to be working fine. You haven't mentioned if you tried it, so I thought I put it out there.

Wouldn't hurt to try but I think the vacuum pump would have gotten all the air out

 

[K4fxd]

The PP radiator is min for sizing with your power levels.

If you are certain the head gaskets are correct and are sealed properly I would first improve the radiator.

 

[GregO]

In my eyes it's just bandaids to the problem unless there is an actual problem with the water pump or radiator.

Sometimes BandAids become an unintentional solution.

 

[tdstuart]

The PP radiator is min for sizing with your power levels.

If you are certain the head gaskets are correct and are sealed properly I would first improve the radiator.

My friend has a bolt on gen2 mustang driving in this same weather. His car sits at 199 cht temps even when it’s 110+. I firmly believe my cooling system is adequate.

There just has to be something wrong

 

[GregO]

@K4fxd
Does this look about right for GT vs GTPP ?

 

[tdstuart]

I’m not doubting the upgraded radiator and water pump wouldn’t help, my point is I know others with modified mustangs driving in this heat with no problem and last summer I had no problems.

My friend has a bolt on mustang and he is sitting at 199 cht. My mustang maybe makes 20-30hp more but only in high rpm not in normal driving. He probably makes more torque during normal driving rpm.

 

[K4fxd]

Looks about right on the radiator.

Looks like you have the upgraded radiator, I would install it and if the problem goes away, all is good. If it keeps overheating you have other issues.

Your bottom hose is hotter than the top? Air flow issue or clogged radiator.

 

[tosha]

Imo, under same conditions and everything else being the same, bigger radiator will just delay the same inevitable result. Car shouldn't be overheating when cruising on highway, temps shouldn't jump just because AC is turned on. In either of these scenarios, it's not making any excessive power that needs cooling upgrades. I would bet on a restriction/issue with coolant flow, whatever is causing it.

 

[tdstuart]

Looks about right on the radiator.

Looks like you have the upgraded radiator, I would install it and if the problem goes away, all is good. If it keeps overheating you have other issues.

Your bottom hose is hotter than the top? Air flow issue or clogged radiator.

No that’s not my photo. I have a stock radiator.

But ya maybe a clogged radiator.

 

[Cory S]

The PP radiator is min for sizing with your power levels.

If you are certain the head gaskets are correct and are sealed properly I would first improve the radiator.

He shouldn’t need to at all. Stock cooling system is 100% sufficient as designed. Normal driving conditions in Arizona on 115° days doesn’t even cause issues. Power level really has nothing to do with radiator sizing. Beating around here and there along with normal driving even at higher speeds (Not 120+mph sustained obviously) puts no more thermal load on the cooling system. High sustained road course racing for 12-20 minute sessions is where thermal effectiveness plays the biggest challenge on a cooling system.

I make a little more power than stock (LOL) My cooling system is OEM stock, has no problem handling 90-95°F days of tooling around flogging the car, even with the extra heat under the hood from the blower, and the engine having to turn it. Not to mention everything is BLACK!!

I rarely see CHT’s over 204°F. Usually it hovers between 192-198°.

 

[Soulja4187]

If it’s not a clogged radiator maybe a hose is collapsing during load? Have you checked your ethanol content to make sure you aren’t running lean during normal driving? Flash back the stock tune and run 91 or 93

 

[GregO]

I have a stock radiator.

Stock OEM original installed or stock replacement ?

How much engine oil was in your cooling system after the head stud issues last go around ?

 

[tdstuart]

If it’s not a clogged radiator maybe a hose is collapsing during load? Have you checked your ethanol content to make sure you aren’t running lean during normal driving? Flash back the stock tune and run 91 or 93

Might be too many mods to flash to stock tune. I honestly don’t understand how a hose would collapse if it’s pressurized, can someone educate me?

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