Opg install, Whats all required?

[db252]

That is most likely from no oil left in the tensioner and no oil pressure from obviously not running yet. That should not be there when you start the car up. Be sure to clean the old silicone of the joints before adding the new silicone and reassembly.

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[Jakebiscamp]

That is most likely from no oil left in the tensioner and no oil pressure from obviously not running yet. That should not be there when you start the car up. Be sure to clean the old silicone of the joints before adding the new silicone and reassembly.

Thank you for your help. Cleaned it up and put everything back together!

 

[Gloucesternige]

Hi everyone, what a great thread you put together here, thank you!!

I'm from across the pond in the UK and will be doing this upgrade as soon as I get my S550 later this year.

I have a lot of experience building engines, though not the Coyote, and must admit I have never even heard of a stretch to fit belt?? This leads me to ask a simple question, that may have a very simple answer.. why don't you just route the belt all round the pulleys with the water pump pulley removed and then fit the bolts into the pulley with the belt on?

I also want to ask the reason why you haven't removed or even dropped the front of the sump to make the sealing of the joints and the pick up pipe fitting easier? i guess there must be a good reason for this?

 

[tsloms]

Hi everyone, what a great thread you put together here, thank you!!

I'm from across the pond in the UK and will be doing this upgrade as soon as I get my S550 later this year.

I have a lot of experience building engines, though not the Coyote, and must admit I have never even heard of a stretch to fit belt?? This leads me to ask a simple question, that may have a very simple answer.. why don't you just route the belt all round the pulleys with the water pump pulley removed and then fit the bolts into the pulley with the belt on?

I also want to ask the reason why you haven't removed or even dropped the front of the sump to make the sealing of the joints and the pick up pipe fitting easier? i guess there must be a good reason for this?

I replaced my opg and timing gear a few months ago. Only the AC belt is a stretch to fit belt. I hadn't seen one of those either before this but it seems to work well. The other belt is just a standard belt with a spring loaded tensioner.

As for the oil pickup tube it has an o ring on it so sealing it back up is not a challenge. Honestly it wasn't that bad to get to the lower bolt with a standard combination wrench. Dropping the pan would be much more work than the minor inconvenience of reaching the lower bolt.

 

[Gloucesternige]

I replaced my opg and timing gear a few months ago. Only the AC belt is a stretch to fit belt. I hadn't seen one of those either before this but it seems to work well. The other belt is just a standard belt with a spring loaded tensioner.

As for the oil pickup tube it has an o ring on it so sealing it back up is not a challenge. Honestly it wasn't that bad to get to the lower bolt with a standard combination wrench. Dropping the pan would be much more work than the minor inconvenience of reaching the lower bolt.

OK, thanks. I hadn't realised the car had a separate AC belt.

When I mentioned the sealing issue, I meant the seal between block/front cover/sump at the inverted T shaped intersection. I guess if no one has suffered oil leaks here then as you say, the extra work is not worth it?

Has anyone actually had the OPG and TG fail? what happened?

 

[tsloms]

OK, thanks. I hadn't realised the car had a separate AC belt.

When I mentioned the sealing issue, I meant the seal between block/front cover/sump at the inverted T shaped intersection. I guess if no one has suffered oil leaks here then as you say, the extra work is not worth it?

Has anyone actually had the OPG and TG fail? what happened?

Upon assembly of the front cover use a good RTV such as Ultra Black at the seams of the oil pan/ front cover as well as at the valve cover/ front cover. This ensures that it will not leak. In my opinion any time you can not disturb a seal such as the oil pan you will have better chances of it not leaking. Modern engines and sealing techniques don't really leak anyways.

There has been a few OPG's fail. The end result is that the outer ring of the gear cracks apart and the pump fails. There is much speculation out on this topic but it seems to be a result of bouncing off the rev limiter or using a 2 step that causes the breakage. Using an aftermarket damper tends to help as well.

I replaced mine for peace of mind. While not necessary it's one less thing to worry about in the future. Spend $600 on parts to save a $6000 engine.

 

[Roh92cp]

OK, thanks. I hadn't realised the car had a separate AC belt.

When I mentioned the sealing issue, I meant the seal between block/front cover/sump at the inverted T shaped intersection. I guess if no one has suffered oil leaks here then as you say, the extra work is not worth it?

Has anyone actually had the OPG and TG fail? what happened?

Here is my OPG failure thread.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63037&highlight=OPG+failed+street

 

[Gloucesternige]

Here is my OPG failure thread.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63037&highlight=OPG+failed+street

Thanks Roh,

I just read all 34 pages and am now even more convinced this needs doing....

 

[Roh92cp]

Yeah well I'm glad my story and experience my help you. I was a true believer that It wouldn't happen to me, becuase I was not hard on my car and never planned to drag race or beat on it real hard. If you need some help and plan to do your gears reach out I can help with any questions.

 

[Deadmau5]

No problem. Ive installed a few sets of opg's and crank sprockets now so im pretty familiar with it. I charge $350 for install if anyone is interested lol.

if only you were in dallas, tx

 

[asylum938]

Quick question for the timing gurus.

I just put the chains back on. Followed the service manual.

When I put the passenger chain back on after rotating the crank back to 12oclock I had to slightly rotate the crank to get the colored like to line up on the crank sprocket.

The driver side went on perfect. However I'm concerned that I may be off a tooth.

The engine turns freely via crank bolt and I don't feel any binding. Is their any way to be 100% sure it's correctly timed?

 

[db252]

First off, when putting the timing chain on after putting the drivers side, you put the key way back to the noon position AND then do one more complete rotation back to noon. Just saying so to make sure you did that. Take a look at these pics. As long as the dark links are on the timing marks, you are good. Does this help or do you need more info?

 

[asylum938]

I did do one full rotation and then back (forward)to 12 per the manal.

I've rotated the crank 20 or so times and haven't had the dark links line back up, I know it should take upwards of 70 crank revolutions to do that so not super concerned there. However I did have to rotate the crank maybe a tooth to get the dark link lined up on the pass side. So that's where my concern comes in.

However I just don't want to button it up to realize I may be off a tooth.

Wasn't sure if there were marks somewhere else to reference off of to make 100% sure .

The cams seem to line up via the Ford manual as well. Pass at 11 when keyway at 12 and driver at 3ish when keyway at 5

 

[db252]

If you want to be absolutely sure, it's easier to reset timing as in disassembly and take the chains back off and reinstall them. You certainly don't want to button everything up and be one or any teeth off.

 

[asylum938]

Well I was just getting ready to start over, turned the keyway to 12 and the dark links lined up perfectly on the pass side.

Sooo, paranoid for no reason haha

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