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I ended up selling the 5.2 to a buddy that is planning to drop it into a notch fox.body. He's not sure if he will be going whipple or a centri just yet but it should be done next year. Its been pretty slow going so far. Lol

No it will not crank or start. Just the dinger goes off as if I left the key in the car. I may take it to the dealer as my guy that programmed the car didn't know how to fix it.

I swapped mine last year and the only issue I have either it is that it always thinks a key is in the car. It won't start like that but it will ding when I'm exiting the car and entering like a key is left in it. It will do this whether a key is in my pocket or not. Any thoughts?

I ran Comp 6062's for just over a year and the only issue I had was with the grease fittings falling out. Clean them.super good and lock tite them in place to keep them there for good. Otherwise no issues at all.

Beyond Redline in GB has a nice dyno as well but I wouldn't let them work on my stuff. I've done all the work on my twin turbo 2016. If you need a hand with something let me know.

VL performance really does more imports than anything else. What are you looking to get done?

I'm in Brillion so I'm a ways from you but I've been through most mods as well as power adders on my 16 so I can help you with mods advice.

I'm just east of Appleton in Brillion.

I saw they released it on FB but haven't seen any details on it. Can we maintain the front sway bar? Retain OEM front suspension? Retain EPAS steering rack? Retain front under tray for PP cars?

No I didn't tell them to turn it off. I'd prefer to have it back on and operational. I'll be checking with a dealer that is 1/2 mile from me on friday.

I've completed my swap now. The harness that I used had the one wire oil psi sensor. I bought the sensor for $25 and had Lund map the psi signal to the gauge and the gauge is working well. My only issue is that the pats was disabled before I got the PCM so the pats is confused right now. It...

On my stock gen 2 I was lifting the heads with 17psi of whipple pushing it. Adding head studs sealed it up without having to replace the factory gaskets.

Honestly if you're looking to stay at 900whp I'd just grab a gen 2 short block for 2k or so and call it a day.

I’ve been running the Comp turbos for about 5,000 miles now and I’ve had both grease zerks fall out. I’ve since installed new ones with Loctite 246 which is for high temp operation. They have not come loose since then fortunately.

Hello I purchased the engine and still have the headers. Shoot me a PM.

Sorry to resurrect the dead but this seems to be a solid listing for performing the swap. I'm looking to swap my 2016 Mustang GT PP over to a 6R80 and am curious if this is still a current and correct listing for parts needed? Are there any other tips and tricks found since this thread was...

Any word yet on availability for these headers?

Any update on these headers yet?

Holy crap!!! Now run a compression test and see how much blowby you’re getting. I hope the engine doesn’t need to come out.

Any update on these headers yet? I’m getting ready to toss my tranny back in and if I can get upgraded headers that’s a bonus!!