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Oil Cooler Question

DB83

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Hey everyone. I'm getting the filter relocation kit from MMR, and will be adding a large Setrab oil cooler and oil thermostat. Running -10 lines everywhere.
My question is, does all the oil go through the cooler? or is there a bypass built into the engine that diverts only some of the oil to the cooler? I've been told that if all the oil goes through the cooler i should run-12 lines instead.

Any input?? Thanks!!
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ddozier

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Ford Performance advises -12AN lines too and from the oil cooler. The concern is flow and pressure drop across the core of the cooler. Larger coolers have larger pressure drops. Everything in the plumbing of the cooler has an impact on flow and pressure. The size of the lines and the number of bends all impact oil flow and every possible step that you can take to limit the reductions of oil flow should be taken. Sometimes there is nothing you can do to make the installation work but a 90* AN fitting is more restrictive than a 45* AN fitting and a 45* fitting is more restrictive than a straight fitting. Each restriction adds to the overall reduction of flow and peak pressure drop. The Coyote oil pumps move a lot of oil and the piston squirters use a lot of oil flow to cool the pistons.

I am not a big fan of moving the oil filter unless you have a fitment issue like running a forward mount twin turbo setup. Most relocation kits move the oil filter forward and if you decide to build a proper splitter you may end up having to remove the splitter each time you have to change the oil filter. Also the relocation kit now adds yet another restriction in the path of the oil and then you will be adding another restriction with the oil thermostat.

I use the Setrab oil M22x1.5 sandwich adapter with the thermostat and bypass all in one unit, here is the part number 19-STP76-22-180-22. You need to order their ProLine fittings in -10AN or -12AN for the connections at the sandwich adapter as they have a special thread length and maximize oil flow at the adapter. You will be removing the OEM oil cooler so you will need a short filter assembly insert, I am not 100% sure this is the correct number but your dealer parts department can help you get the correct piece AL3Z-6890-A.
.

Not sure what Setrab cooler you are leaning towards but the Series1 oil coolers are too small for road course use unless you are looking at the 72 row unit, the Series6 oil coolers in the 50 or 60 row with good placement and good airflow will handle almost everyone's needs. If you are planning to run 30+ min sessions or back to back sessions you should consider a Series9 48 row or bigger but they are hard to install due to their larger size. I would also price the Earl's UltraPro coolers as they are identical to the Setrab coolers and can usually be found for a little less.

Take your time and plan out each part and think about how they will effect the flow and pressure of the oil system when you decide what pieces and the final placement of the parts in the system. The oil system is a critical system on the car and has to be designed with that in mind. Adding an oil cooler for serious track duty is a good idea but adding an under sized or poorly designed oil cooler can cause more harm than good. Use straight fittings as much as possible and the largest size lines you can make work, also oil lines move and grow when under pressure so make sure when you plumb the lines themselves that you account for some movement and add protection to the lines from rubbing on any part of the car. Try and keep the radius of the hoses as large as possible. Seal all the openings in the duct work from the lines passing through them.

Dave

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I’m using AN10 lines on my cooler, and seemed to have followed ddozier advice with only 30 deg fittings and easy bends in line. I’ve done plenty hot day and cold day track events with no issues, although my oil cooler cracked at my last event, so now I get to buy another one.

You should probably get a sandwich plate with a thermostat built in. Normally the sandwich plate allows oil to flow both through the cooler and bypass, with most probably bypassing due to shorter path and lower flow restriction. Then as the temp rises, the thermostat will begin to close the bypass and force all oil to travel through the cooler.
 
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DB83

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Thanks for the help guys!

Bit annoying that I already bought the filter relocation kit and the -10 lines and fittings. Good thing i didn't get the thermostat yet!
Does the stock oil system send all the oil to the cooler/filter though or only a certain percentage? As i've already got the -10 lines i'll give them a go.
I was going to run the Setrab 9 series 34 row cooler as per recommended by Setrab when i spoke to them. They said it wouldn't hurt to go bigger, but for what i'm doing (non competitive track days 20-30 minute sessions) it would be more than enough.

@Plimmer do you run the sandwich plate on the stock oil filter location? Or did you remove the stock filter/cooler assembly all together? Any issues with oil filter fitment?

@ddozier i'm assuming you removed the whole filter/cooler assembly then? Did you just replace it with the Ford XL2Z-6890-AA piece you mentioned and a setrab sandwich plate? Or did you have to use some sort of a block off plate too?

Thanks for the help guys!!
 

baevid

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I'm in the same boat as you were I bought the filter relocation kit and piecing together parts... when it would have been better to piece everything on it's own but I'll try to make it work.

Will watch this thread so I'll some more idea for mounting :)
 

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I've been monitoring the oil temp in the readout and even under track use it never gets anywhere near out of the green zone, runs about 3/4 of the way up the green. Is this thing accurate? I know it's calculated not from a sensor, but I would think Ford's algorithms would be well enough developed that it should be able to give a pretty decent guide.
 

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Thanks for the help guys!

Bit annoying that I already bought the filter relocation kit and the -10 lines and fittings. Good thing i didn't get the thermostat yet!
Does the stock oil system send all the oil to the cooler/filter though or only a certain percentage? As i've already got the -10 lines i'll give them a go.
I was going to run the Setrab 9 series 34 row cooler as per recommended by Setrab when i spoke to them. They said it wouldn't hurt to go bigger, but for what i'm doing (non competitive track days 20-30 minute sessions) it would be more than enough.

@Plimmer do you run the sandwich plate on the stock oil filter location? Or did you remove the stock filter/cooler assembly all together? Any issues with oil filter fitment?

@ddozier i'm assuming you removed the whole filter/cooler assembly then? Did you just replace it with the Ford XL2Z-6890-AA piece you mentioned and a setrab sandwich plate? Or did you have to use some sort of a block off plate too?

Thanks for the help guys!!
Mine is a simple Mishimoto sandwich plate. I also added a temp sensor for proper temp readings. There is plenty room for oil filter. Removed the stock cooler and plugged to water cooling lines.
F4929A9D-0AF7-45AE-958E-0ADA64DAC694.jpeg
 

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I've been monitoring the oil temp in the readout and even under track use it never gets anywhere near out of the green zone, runs about 3/4 of the way up the green. Is this thing accurate? I know it's calculated not from a sensor, but I would think Ford's algorithms would be well enough developed that it should be able to give a pretty decent guide.
If everything is stock I would trust it. I bet it is conservative even. Grassroots tested GMs calculated value on the camaro and it was conservative. I know this is a different company but usually a certain amount of conservatism is applied on these things.
I have had to cut some sessions short on hot days with the factory setup. I'm not at a point yet where I'll change anything. Higher skill, stickier tires, modifications, climate, track layout, etc. All factor into your cooling needs.
I've done 2 lapping days on an oil change and I creep up to, but still avoid, the yellow region. Oil analysis came back still really great with 8000km change. So I have some comfort on the gauge. Oil pressure is a good one to watch too.
 

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If everything is stock I would trust it. I bet it is conservative even. Grassroots tested GMs calculated value on the camaro and it was conservative. I know this is a different company but usually a certain amount of conservatism is applied on these things.
I have had to cut some sessions short on hot days with the factory setup. I'm not at a point yet where I'll change anything. Higher skill, stickier tires, modifications, climate, track layout, etc. All factor into your cooling needs.
I've done 2 lapping days on an oil change and I creep up to, but still avoid, the yellow region. Oil analysis came back still really great with 8000km change. So I have some comfort on the gauge. Oil pressure is a good one to watch too.
I would expect they would have scienced that out fairly well given the amount of data they must accumulate when they are developing an engine. The only power adder (I use the term loosely) I have is PP2. Have Ford track suspension, 220TW 305s square on 11s, suspension bushings, diff bushings, brake cooling ducts, motor mounts/trans mount, got rid of all the extraneous weight I can find without gutting the doors type of thing. I change my oil/filter about every 7-8 track hours, trans and diff about every 10-15 hours. I never run more than 5 laps at a time on hot days because the diff overheats if I do. Have never seen the oil temp go near the yellow at all, it's always the diff that craps out first but it only has done that on the fastest track I run, the slower more technical tracks don't bother the diff nearly as much. Probably going to bite the bullet and do the FTBR diff cooler. I run Pennzoil PUP 5W30.
 

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Mine is a simple Mishimoto sandwich plate. I also added a temp sensor for proper temp readings. There is plenty room for oil filter. Removed the stock cooler and plugged to water cooling lines.
If you change out the lower coolant hose for a 2014 GT without the factory cooler you get rid of the plastic ventury thingy that was feeding the OEM cooler and you will see a drop in CHT due to removing the restriction it is adding to the coolant system. I guess you could also use a straight coupler and just clamp the hoses back together after you cut out the plastic piece but you would have another possible failure point. The correct hose is under $30 on RockAuto.

Hose without oil cooler take-offs

24179-1_TOP_A__ra_p.jpg

OEM hose with Oil Cooler take-offs
24437-1_TOP_A__ra_p.jpg


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Excellent, just ordered the hose.

Can anyone confirm the part number for the cooler insert XL2Z-6890-AA, my dealer is being useless!
 

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What's the part number for the hose that you ordered? I believe I will need the same.
 

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