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Oil catch can?

dguzzi

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I think if you pull the PCV valve hose and its dripping with oil, a catch can might be a good idea. I never heard of negative experience having one. Just another thing to check. (some of us like that)
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horsepower addiction

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On high hp cars keeping oil vapor out of the incoming air is important. High power cars can fill a catch can in a couple runs down the track if they are spinning too 8000rpms there is a lot of blow by

the water steam cleans the combustion chamber, exhaust runners, valves, and cools down in incoming air and the methanol raises octane up to 110-120
 

CAELUM

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Is it really beneficial to install an oil catch can, if the car already have like 100k? If so, do you need both passenger and driver side or just passenger side?
J&L Passenger side only, or Ford Performance.
 

Mcgyver

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My catch can picks up about half a coke can over 5,000 kilometers ( 3,000 freedom units) when I change oil.

I think it is worth the effort no matter the age if the engine. In fact the older the engine the more blow-by it will have. And of course if you plan to drive it in the upper rev range it will pick up even more.
The idea here is to prevent the engine knocking through reduced octane levels.
Water methanol seems like overkill unless you have boosted it.
 

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SVTchris

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I got the Ford performance, but seems like a pain to empty it.... How often should I check the can?
I check it every oil change (5K miles). It is really not as hard to empty as some people make it out to be. Some insist on unscrewing the 4 screws on the lid and using a turkey baster to suck up the oil which is difficult and unnecessary. If you read the instructions closely, just undo the factory style quick disconnects from each side of the canister, lift off the bracket, pour contents out of the LOWER nipple, slide back onto the bracket and snap the quick disconnects back on.
 
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I check it every oil change (5K miles). It is really not as hard to empty as some people make it out to be. Some insist on unscrewing the 4 screws on the lid and using a turkey baster to suck up the oil which is difficult and unnecessary. If you read the instructions closely, just undo the factory style quick disconnects from each side of the canister, lift off the bracket, pour contents out of the LOWER nipple, slide back onto the bracket and snap the quick disconnects back on.
The little plastic clips seems like a pain to undo and easy to break
 

SVTchris

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The little plastic clips seems like a pain to undo and easy to break
The clips may look fragile but they are factory grade connectors. I will say the orientation of my left clip on the canister is harder to release, at least on my set up, so I disconnect where it connects to the valve cover and slide the canister off of the bracket with the left tube intact. Once off, it is easier to undo the tube quick disconnect on the canister to pour out the oil the lower nipple and simple to snap it all back together.
 
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Daveknight

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The clips may look fragile but they are factory grade connectors. I will say the orientation of my left clip on the canister is harder to release, at least on my set up, so I disconnect where it connects to the valve cover and slide the canister off of the bracket with the left tube intact. Once off, it is easier to undo the tube quick disconnect on the canister to pour out the oil the lower nipple and simple to snap it all back together.
It was a little difficult to connect the hose, it wouldn't click when I attach it, so I had to push on the clip to make it click.
 

SVTchris

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As long as it did click, I think you should be good. They do need a good push to get them connected.
 

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MAGS1

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It was a little difficult to connect the hose, it wouldn't click when I attach it, so I had to push on the clip to make it click.
If you have a pair of angled needle nose, those work well for getting the clips released. Make sure when emptying to pour out of the lower of the two nipples as mentioned above.
 

CAELUM

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I got the Ford performance, but seems like a pain to empty it.... How often should I check the can?
Yes, FP is difficult. I't check at 1000 to see relative to how full it is. Then either sooner but most probably later. It will vary depending on many factors including the weather-moisture from temperature changes, humidity, and of course how you drive it (i.e. lost of pulls). You may find it isn't neccessary to check until you do an oil change.
 

Jstang23

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To be quite honest, if your engine is stock you do not need a catch can. The 18+ Gen 3 coyotes have port injection as well so it cleans all the super important bits every time you drive the car. Unless you are running a pretty specific 93 octane tune then the octane loss due to blow-by is negligible. I would open the 100 or so buck on something more important like fixing the rear end of the car.
 

MAGS1

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To be quite honest, if your engine is stock you do not need a catch can. The 18+ Gen 3 coyotes have port injection as well so it cleans all the super important bits every time you drive the car. Unless you are running a pretty specific 93 octane tune then the octane loss due to blow-by is negligible. I would open the 100 or so buck on something more important like fixing the rear end of the car.
Agreed it’s not absolutely necessary but I consider it a nice to have. I used FordPass points so it didn’t cost me anything (other than the price of the car and service appointments that got me said points).
 

SVTchris

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Agreed it’s not absolutely necessary but I consider it a nice to have.
I agree, not necessary but its a mod that only has upside with no downside (unless you forget to empty it when full).
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