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Bullitt69

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Hi all, just wanted to throw this out there for anyone who is more knowledgeable than I - my experience dates back to the days of carburetors and points/ignitions so I really have no clue.

My 2019 Mustang Bullitt just got the Hellion TT treatment, sleeper kit. It has the Hellion 4-1 headers, Precision 62's, tuned for 93 by Lund's with a BAP (boost a pump) setup with 1050 injectors.

It was running fine for the last 2 weeks I've had it, then Thursday last week I had just started it up and about a mile down the road started backfiring really bad, the check engine light starting blinking and it had absolutely no power and I guess was transitioned into "Limp Mode" (?)

I just barely got it back to my garage, turned it off and here are the codes picked up by my SCT4:
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PO300 - Random/Multicylinder Misfire Detected

PO305 - Cylinder 5, Misfire Detected

PO307 - Cylinder 7, Misfire Detected

PO308 - Cylinder 8, Misfire Detected

PO316 - Engine Misfire Detected on Start Up (first 1000 revoutions)

PO345 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Bank 2

PO349 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent Bank 2

PO390 - Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Bank 2

PO394 - Camshaft Position Sensor B Intermittent Bank 2

UO415 - Invalid Data Received from Antilock Brake System (ABS) Controle Module
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Any ideas about what's going on?

I'm praying it something simple, It's got a new clutch so I haven't gotten into at all except for a few pulls just to see how it feels, never got above 6K RPM.

I can't get it back to the shop for at least a few days, of course this happens right when they get booked to the hilt and have all 4 bays filled up....

Would appreciate any thoughts, this has been on my mind all weekend driving me a bit crazy, more poor baby is DOWN!

-BulliTT69-
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Plimmer

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Could be something has come unplugged. Check that all harnesses and sensors are plugged in properly and that no wires have been cut or broken.
 
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Bullitt69

Bullitt69

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Did you do a crank relearn after the clutch install?
Well, not not me, but I'm sure the shop did. It ran great for 2 weeks and this just happened all of sudden.

Could be something has come unplugged. Check that all harnesses and sensors are plugged in properly and that no wires have been cut or broken.
I will take a look around and see if anything has come unplugged. Checked all the fuses, they seem OK.
 

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Check all the hoses. It sounds like one of the couplings may have popped off. Go from the turbo all the way to the throttle body. I bet you'll find a massive leak.
 

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Bullitt69

Bullitt69

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Well, I did find an oil leak coming from the drivers side Turbo lines today I didn't notice Thursday. Not sure if that would cause all the codes and for the car to go into Limp/Safety Mode.
 

usgiorgi

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Well, I did find an oil leak coming from the drivers side Turbo lines today I didn't notice Thursday. Not sure if that would cause all the codes and for the car to go into Limp/Safety Mode.
Where are the turbos located? Are you able to spin the blade by hand? See if it has any play in any axis. Forced induction is a totally different animal. Since even a small problem can equal a huge discrepancy between how much air the ECU expects vs how much it's getting.

Also check the MAF sensor. If you're using an over-oiled filter on a forced induction car, there's a chance that oil contaminated the sensor. Take the intake off and rub your finger on the inside to see if there's a coating of oil. I did this once on my Volvo S60R. Got all sorts of codes since the air reading was so wrong.
 
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Bullitt69

Bullitt69

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USGiorgi, and the rest of You - These are all very good suggestions - THANK YOU.

Having one of the turbo's take a crap crossed my mind as well, that's something that typically happens in the first 200 miles of use or so. Fortunately if that's the case, I know the company (Precision Turbo) will honor a replacement, they're actually one of my customers for the business I am part owner of, which is dedicated to Quality in general.

So true, in Forced Induction, the computer might be reading a <Leak> in the system expecting more air than what it was tuned for, so this has me thinking about your earlier comment.

I did check what I could get too, all seems OK but again, it's going to take putting it up on a lift to get the whole picture I don't even have a JACK being so spoiled my last 20 years in the Mustang Realm paying other folks to do the work for me. I'm starting to think I should have done a simple Supercharger set up, much less to "Go Wrong", but then again I wouldn't have quite the power increase I was looking for off the bat IDK. Car made 717 HP and 588 Ft pounds of torque with a 93 tune, and although it felt amazing, I know there's room to grow eventually with this set up with the change of a spring, and there's the option of having a boost controller for any damn mood I might be in at the time, which changes often lol.

One thing I've learned over the years, it's never enough, I expect room to grow with this set up as the years go by and it was <seemingly> the best choice in this regard.

Oh well, this summer has been a backstabbing bitch no matter how you look at it, so time, patience and persistence is the only way to look at it.

Truly appreciate it, keep the ideas flowing!

:clap:
 
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Bullitt69

Bullitt69

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Just trying to figure this S#IT OUT damnation.

Thanks Guys. :rockon:

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Well, I did find an oil leak coming from the drivers side Turbo lines today I didn't notice Thursday. Not sure if that would cause all the codes and for the car to go into Limp/Safety Mode.
Don’t think an oil leak is the issue. Bank 2 is the drivers side and your misfire is also drivers side.

If your SCT can do a crank relearn, I’d try that if engine running now, or carefully check the wiring harness on the drivers side and check that everything is plugged in and no wires pinched or broken. Clear codes, if they come back you probably got more serious issues.
 

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wazslow

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Looks like you need to get under the car and tighten all of the oil drain fittings, that's not a big deal. An oil leak is not causing all of those codes though, something else is going on. I have a sleeper kit on my 2016 and have never thrown a single code (knock on wood).
 

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My sct X4 does crank relearns, in fact it has already solved a “wot only misfire” for me. You should do this.. did your shop replace the spark plugs with the install, and if so what are they gapped to?
 
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Bullitt69

Bullitt69

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My sct X4 does crank relearns, in fact it has already solved a “wot only misfire” for me. You should do this.. did your shop replace the spark plugs with the install, and if so what are they gapped to?
The shop replaced the plugs, NKG's I recall - I'm sure they're gapped to what Hellion recommends. This "Crank Relearn", you and Plimmer have both suggested this - where do I access it in the SCTX4? Is the process outlined in the manual? There wouldn't be any harm doing this is there?
 

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Crank Relearn
  1. Go into the Vehicle Functions option.
  2. Then select Special Functions and you will be prompted to turn the key on and continue.
  3. From here select the option for Crank Relearn.
  4. You will get a Notice about doing this procedure after certain engine repairs, select Continue.
 
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Bullitt69

Bullitt69

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Hello Gentlemen,

I do greatly appreciate all your replies.

In a nutshell, and after doing a bit of research, it really could be "ANYTHING"

Using the magic of Google and YouTube, just one of the codes (PO 300) leads me to believe it could be anything from a bad spark plug all the way to a alternator, the PCM or even a failed O2 sensor.



The other codes, well - it could be a bad camshaft (or crankshaft, or both) sensor, something with the wiring, or at the very worst the motor let go.

The installation is very clean, the shop I utilized has a very good rep and he's a busy all the time.

Guess I'm just gonna have to play the waiting game on this, I think with ANY new set up, especially a turbo system, there are bound to be some hiccups.

IDK, if I could do it over again, maybe I would have had better luck a Procharger set up - simple, easy install - just bolt on and go....

I've had a PC on a foxbody, it was noisy and it rocked. Also had a Roush M90 on my 2009 Bullitt, it produced good power and I never had a problem with it.

Just really wanted to do something different for the 19 Bullitt, when it was working, it worked FANTASTIC!!! Feels like driving a Lightning Bolt for Gawds Sake! :sunglasses::sun:

It will come together, eventually....

-BulliTT69-
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