New EGO Stubby Nozzle

[DFB5.0]

For anyone using an EGO leaf blower to dry their cars, the brand has just introduced their own short/stubby nozzle specifically intended for the detailing industry.

US Links -
EGO Power+ AST2000 Handheld Blower Short Tube Attachment (powerplusparts.com)
EGO AST2000 Blower Short Tube Attachment for EGO Handheld Leaf Blowers | eBay
EGO | Handheld Blower Short Tube Attachment – Car Supplies Warehouse

AU Links -
https://egopowerplus.com.au/handheld-blower-short-tube-attachment-ast2000/
https://www.tradetools.com/ego-blow...suits-lb5300e-lb5800e-lb6500e-lb7650e-ast2000
https://www.amazon.com.au/EGO-AST2000-Handheld-Blower-Attachment/dp/B0CN98N4T1/ref=sr_1_1?adgrpid=143929538340&hvadid=632860925438&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9072083&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5439511637070533149&hvtargid=kwd-1211926325433&hydadcr=27823_363082&keywords=ego+blower+short+nozzle&qid=1704878320&sr=8-1&th=1





I've been using a 3D printed version, which has been flawless apart from the difficulty in removing it from the unit. The EGO version is injection molded and features a quick release tab.

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[FKE SNK]

Thank you for posting this. I had the same stubby nozzle you did and you have to pry it off to remove it. After almost breaking it the last time, I stopped removing it. Makes it difficult to blow leaves when you are actually using the tool as intended.

 

[StangTime]

I bought this one on Amazon. Almost identical to the new EGO one. I've been using it for a couple years now. Absolutely perfect for the EGO and came with a silicone protector ring.
https://www.amazon.com/Stocky-Drying-Nozzle-Blower-Power/dp/B0BKSYR1YQ

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

So if i don't rub against the paint with the standard plastic attachments that came with my EGO, there is no advantage to buying this product?

 

[DFB5.0]

So if i don't rub against the paint with the standard plastic attachments that came with my EGO, there is no advantage to buying this product?

The main reason to use a stubby nozzle is that it makes it much easier to work around the car with.

 

[kilobravo]

I have never used a leaf blower to dry a vehicle but air drying, regardless of the method, is IMHO, much better than using drying towels for two reasons, it's faster and requires no contact with the clear coat.

Adding the stubby nozzle makes perfect sense. It's the same concept as CQB barrel lengths so you can maneuver in tight spaces and in this case, make it a whole lot easier to dry the car without banging into it when maneuvering the working end.

Instead, I went the electric route with a Metrovac Max Blaster.

Granted it's not inexpensive but, it has what I believe are a few important pro's.

- Soft rubber hose and tips
- The output is quite warm and accelerates the drying process
- Easier to get into cracks and crevices than a leaf blower and, less risky.
- Considerably quieter than a 2-stroke leaf blower (about the same volume as an electric one.)
- Most important to me is it's made in the USA.

I love the darn thing but you do need a dedicated 20A circuit as it gobbles up the amps.

Sorry to have hijacked the thread. <smiling>

 

[skinnyb]

I got the stubby nozzle for my blower, mine is a Ryobi though. It works fantastic, and I agree it does make drying much faster and touch free. I do go back afterward with a drying towel and quick detailer to finish up all the little drips that inevitebly will surface. That damn PP spoiler and rear deck lid panel will leak for days :(

 

[MAGS1]

I got the stubby nozzle for my blower, mine is a Ryobi though. It works fantastic, and I agree it does make drying much faster and touch free. I do go back afterward with a drying towel and quick detailer to finish up all the little drips that inevitebly will surface. That damn PP spoiler and rear deck lid panel will leak for days :(

I haven’t had too many issues with the decklid panel but my GT350/GT500/Mach 1 “swing” drips from the corners for a few days. Not sure exactly why because I blow what seems like all the water out of there .

 

[skinnyb]

I haven’t had too many issues with the decklid panel but my GT350/GT500/Mach 1 “swing” drips from the corners for a few days. Not sure exactly why because I blow what seems like all the water out of there .

Yeah, I even open the trunk and let it drain for a few minutes too, still will leak after shutting. Hood vents too, I always open it and wipe all around the engine bay, blow it out and still will drip if I drive it within 48 hours afterward. And don't even get me started about the rear marker lights. Them beasts hold soapy water too :(

 

[MAGS1]

Yeah, I even open the trunk and let it drain for a few minutes too, still will leak after shutting. Hood vents too, I always open it and wipe all around the engine bay, blow it out and still will drip if I drive it within 48 hours afterward. And don't even get me started about the rear marker lights. Them beasts hold soapy water too :(

Same here with the trunk and I also do the same with the hood. Drives me nuts because that residual water leaves spots . I usually don’t have an issue with the marker lights. The honeycomb grille is a real pain though. First world problems I guess

 

[RowdyRam]

I got the stubby nozzle for my blower, mine is a Ryobi though. It works fantastic, and I agree it does make drying much faster and touch free. I do go back afterward with a drying towel and quick detailer to finish up all the little drips that inevitebly will surface. That damn PP spoiler and rear deck lid panel will leak for days :(

I wish I could find the same for my Ryobi blower. My model has a rounded outlet on the main body. Also, I didn't originally buy it for use on the car, rather for use on our back patio and driveway.

 

[skinnyb]

I wish I could find the same for my Ryobi blower. My model has a rounded outlet on the main body. Also, I didn't originally buy it for use on the car, rather for use on our back patio and driveway.

The Stubby Nozzle Co makes them for about all blowers. He has a store on Etsy that sells them, might give him a shout and give him the exact model, you never know.

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

The main reason to use a stubby nozzle is that it makes it much easier to work around the car with.

Gotcha. Might give this a try.

 

[DFB5.0]

The concept of a stubby nozzle for leaf blowers has been a thing for a few years now. Initially, it was centered around the EGO machines, in particular Obsessed Garage teaming with Apex Air to produce an integrated, OE look and OE functioning attachment geared towards drying cars. The key to the Apex version is that it has two release tabs, which is to allow for further attachment to be fitted to the stubby setup.

ApexAire Home
EGO Blower Stubby Nozzle | Obsessed Garage




After an initial batch had fitment and supply issues, Apex Air decided to refocus manufacturing of the attachment in the USA. Sadly for Apex, while they were dealing with that (nearly two years), various outlets began producing 3D printed versions, and now even EGO have got in on the deal, leaving Apex holding the keys to a car that drove away long ago.

In my case, I ordered a 3D printed version shortly after getting an EGO 765. While it certainly works well, it doesn't have a release tab for easy conversion from car dryer to leaf blower.

Stubby nozzle co - Etsy Australia

Now that EGO have started to make their own, the full RRP of the EGO item is actually less money than the 3D printed version, $49.95 AUD vs $63.36 AUD. And to top it off, the EGO version has the release tab.

In practice, all three versions do the same thing. For me, I probably don't need the quick release tab as I don't use my EGO 765 for anything other than car drying and the occasional driveway blow down. If you are using the blower for what it was intended to do, as in blowing leaves, with some car drying thrown in the mix, having the ability to quickly and easily change nozzles via the EGO or Apex versions would be the wise move.

 

[kilobravo]

..but my GT350/GT500/Mach 1 “swing” drips from the corners for a few days.

Yeah, I even open the trunk and let it drain for a few minutes too, still will leak after shutting. Hood vents too, I always open it and wipe all around the engine bay, blow it out and still will drip if I drive it within 48 hours afterward.

Same here with the trunk and I also do the same with the hood.

Guys, I was more than a little surprised to hear about this dripping long after drying the vehicle as I have never seen this happen with mine. Sure, one or two drips here and there but not as y'all have described.

That said, I do take a short spin after drying to get the rust film off the rotors and most importantly, to dry the pads. Speaking of which, if you don't do this and instead, just park her back in the garage, you run the risk of serious rust damage to the pads. Ask me how I know.

The first sign of the pad problem is when you go to back the car out the next day and despite giving it throttle, the car won't move because, the pad/or pads is/are stuck to the rotor(s). Eventually, more throttle will break things loose and you'll hear (and feel) a pretty good POP as the vehicle "lurches."

Granted, the amount of rust is directly related to the amount of wash and rinse water the calipers, i.e., pads receive but trust me, it doesn't take much on those big, front pads.

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