New coyote build

[Gerlacha]

Hello,
I have been searching this site, TMO and SVTP regarding gathering a build list for a max N/A coyote build. I like to learn hands on, so would like to build up the long block myself vice buying a turnkey Aluminator or something complete. Ideally I would like to install it into an 11+. I think that really likely turns into an 18+ in order to take full advantage of the DI and fuel system controls that the later models have. Can anyone provide a build list that I could attempt to mirror to build myself? Basic idea is a:
5.2 predator block
stage 3 heads and cams, Gen 3 heads best place to start?
CJ intake
Unknown TB
The rods, pistons are my biggest unknown. I would like to run a flex tune with the high compression 13:1 that follows.
thank you for your time

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[Cordero1]

There is actually a thread on SVTP with a build list similar to what you started to count off, but this guy is boosted. Just recently sold his car I believe as well.

 

[Gerlacha]

Thank you I’ll see if I can dig it up!

 

[wish i was fast]

max NA build i would stick with stock rods with arp ls1 bolts and je pistons. keep it light as possible

 

[Gerlacha]

That makes sense for maximum ability to rev. I would like to build it myself to learn but I assume there is a reason well known shops get paid up do the work

 

[Racinjason65]

A “ max effort” na build would Be a heart breaker, you’d spend more on head work, valve train and cams than a basic supercharger would cost, and make 200hp less.

 

[Gerlacha]

I’ve read that. My last mustang was a mildly built 03 cobra so I know how sweet FI. It’s good to have good options available.

 

[K4fxd]

My idea of a max effort N/A build would start with a 400 inch MMR wet block.

 

[Racinjason65]

My idea of a max effort N/A build would start with a 400 inch MMR wet block.

They are building me a sleeved, Billet Bryant crank 5.3, but it’s not going to be na

 

[tdstuart]

Depends on your budget. And also what car. If you are doing 2018+ (The best option for N/A because of the 10-speed transmission) you will probably want the gen 3 heads so you can keep direct injection (although you can delete it).

You can get 5.6L coyote with a 5.2 block / bore and a stroker kit (MMR offers a kit but so do a few other places).

The stroker kits are not very popular. If you think that may be a route you want to go I would call rpg racing engines or fast-forward racing engines. I’m sure they would talk to you and help you out (I called ffre with a question about my build and they gave me good advice).

If you don’t do a stroker kit then either pick up a 5.2 block or get a coyote block and sleeve it + bore it (gen 2 or gen 3 don’t remember which block is technically better).

The ported gt350 heads are the best-flowing heads for the coyote platform (as far as I know). You will need to use modified rocker arms (MMR offers some) and use 11-17 coyote cams. Although as I mentioned earlier if you are doing a 2018+ car it's much easier to do ported gen 3 coyote heads (keep 2018+ cams and keep direct injection).

Let's talk about cams/timing.
If you are going to keep stock pcm/ecu then you need to do some matching.
11-14 car is the gen 1 coyote. So get gen 1 coyote cams and timing components.
15-17 car is the gen 2 coyote. So get gen 2 coyote cams and timing components.
18+ cars are the gen 3 coyote. The gen 3 coyote has more differences in timing components and cams than the last 2 gens. You will absolutely need the gen 3 cams and timing components.

Comp Cams offers N/A cams for all gens of coyotes. There are also custom cam grinders out there that can probably get you better cams. Check the N/A coyote Facebook page I know one of them posts on there sometimes and I'm sure if you made a post asking for custom cams he would respond.

Lets talk about block and head matching:
You can pretty much mix and match the block and heads of the coyote generations.
The gen 3 block uses the spray in liner and has a slightly bigger bore than the gen 1 and gen 2 blocks.
You want to match the gasket to the head (gen 2 head = gen 2 head gasket).
You can run any block in any generation car.

The biggest thing you need to think about is vct. There are some people who delete the vct and get super aggressive cams. I would need to do some more research to see if it would actually be worth it. The vct helps a ton on these cars and its part of the advantage that lets the coyote compete with the bigger displacement v8s. If its a drag car I could see where not having vct could make lots of sense as you would have shorter gears and a high stall converter and basically be 7000+ rpm the whole time.

As far as manifolds go mmr claims their composite manifold is the best n/a manifold. Its 2.6k for just the manifold though. They do have a dyno graph showing good gains over a cobra jet when revved past 7,500 rpm (holding flat power till over 8,500 rpm). But a ported cobra jet is considered one of the best manifolds.

If I were you I would decide on application first. Is this car going to be a drag strip car, race track car, roll race car, street car? If not a pure drag car then you probably want an 18+ with the 10 speed. Then decide on budget and how crazy you want the max effort n/a to be. A tall deck block would get you the most power but its also stupid expensive. Then do some research on deleting the vct and when it makes sense to do so. Picking up some high compression pistons and other upgraded parts will be the easier part of deciding what to do.

 

[EFI]

max NA build i would stick with stock rods with arp ls1 bolts and je pistons. keep it light as possible

If you want light, the K1 forged rods are about 17 grams lighter than the stock rods and obviously much stronger.

 

[Gerlacha]

It’s great you can mix and match heads. I assume that will continue on with the fourth gen coyotes coming out soon. I think I would like to build the long block out completely and then swap it for the existing engine and either keep the stock one as a spare or sell. It would be gen 3 components going in as that’s what the stock cars PCM is. I would like to keep the variable valve technology active in order to not lose lots on the low rpm range as I would like to be able to street the car on nice days (lower Michigan).

Is following the FSM sufficient for a intermediately skilled at home mechanic enough to build the long block myself? There are guides for days regarding installing cams, I don’t see very much on building and balancing the bottom end though.

 

[wish i was fast]

If you want light, the K1 forged rods are about 17 grams lighter than the stock rods and obviously much stronger.

if they are lighter, then i would not bet on them being stronger

 

[wish i was fast]

My idea of a max effort N/A build would start with a 400 inch MMR wet block.

i have never seen one of there engines last even one year

 

[K4fxd]

i have never seen one of there engines last even one year

I have never seen a max effort engine last more than 40 passes.

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