New coyote build

[wish i was fast]

I have never seen a max effort engine last more than 40 passes.

i mean just a little performance build. they don't last. a lot are no good at start up

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[K4fxd]

i mean just a little performance build. they don't last. a lot are no good at start up

I said I would start with their 400 inch wet block, not an engine.

That said if what you say is true they wouldn't still be in business.

 

[wish i was fast]

If you want light, the K1 forged rods are about 17 grams lighter than the stock rods and obviously much stronger.

the k1 rods are made at the same place the Manley, eagle, ace, mod max, all the forged h beam rods are made at the same place in china. it what happens after they are made that makes the difference. the callie's rods are the best and they are made at the same place. but look at the rod cap

 

[K4fxd]

i mean just a little performance build.

Why do I think you are jackson 1320?

 

[wish i was fast]

I said I would start with their 400 inch wet block, not an engine.

That said if what you say is true they wouldn't still be in business.

i'm not saying take my word. look them up on you tube

 

[wish i was fast]

Why do I think you are jackson 1320?

fuck that asshole.

 

[K4fxd]

fuck that asshole.

K

 

[wish i was fast]

I said I would start with their 400 inch wet block, not an engine.

That said if what you say is true they wouldn't still be in business.

i understand that all company's have there ups and downs. i just see a lot of downs and rarely hear about any ups from them

 

[K4fxd]

I'm no MMR fan boi. But I do like the 400 inch or 6.6 wet block for N/A max effort street use.

Max effort race I'd go with the dry block.

I'm hoping, fingers crossed, Ford will make 4V Double cam TiVVt heads for the 7.3 as a last ditch FU to the electric movement.

 

[wish i was fast]

i understand that all company's have there ups and downs. i just see a lot of downs and rarely hear about any ups from them​

don't get me wrong i have seen a lot of there products in use in other engines and work perfectly. it just seams to be a problem with there engines

 

[Gerlacha]

Depends on your budget. And also what car. If you are doing 2018+ (The best option for N/A because of the 10-speed transmission) you will probably want the gen 3 heads so you can keep direct injection (although you can delete it).

You can get 5.6L coyote with a 5.2 block / bore and a stroker kit (MMR offers a kit but so do a few other places).

The stroker kits are not very popular. If you think that may be a route you want to go I would call rpg racing engines or fast-forward racing engines. I’m sure they would talk to you and help you out (I called ffre with a question about my build and they gave me good advice).

If you don’t do a stroker kit then either pick up a 5.2 block or get a coyote block and sleeve it + bore it (gen 2 or gen 3 don’t remember which block is technically better).

The ported gt350 heads are the best-flowing heads for the coyote platform (as far as I know). You will need to use modified rocker arms (MMR offers some) and use 11-17 coyote cams. Although as I mentioned earlier if you are doing a 2018+ car it's much easier to do ported gen 3 coyote heads (keep 2018+ cams and keep direct injection).

Let's talk about cams/timing.
If you are going to keep stock pcm/ecu then you need to do some matching.
11-14 car is the gen 1 coyote. So get gen 1 coyote cams and timing components.
15-17 car is the gen 2 coyote. So get gen 2 coyote cams and timing components.
18+ cars are the gen 3 coyote. The gen 3 coyote has more differences in timing components and cams than the last 2 gens. You will absolutely need the gen 3 cams and timing components.

Comp Cams offers N/A cams for all gens of coyotes. There are also custom cam grinders out there that can probably get you better cams. Check the N/A coyote Facebook page I know one of them posts on there sometimes and I'm sure if you made a post asking for custom cams he would respond.

Lets talk about block and head matching:
You can pretty much mix and match the block and heads of the coyote generations.
The gen 3 block uses the spray in liner and has a slightly bigger bore than the gen 1 and gen 2 blocks.
You want to match the gasket to the head (gen 2 head = gen 2 head gasket).
You can run any block in any generation car.

The biggest thing you need to think about is vct. There are some people who delete the vct and get super aggressive cams. I would need to do some more research to see if it would actually be worth it. The vct helps a ton on these cars and its part of the advantage that lets the coyote compete with the bigger displacement v8s. If its a drag car I could see where not having vct could make lots of sense as you would have shorter gears and a high stall converter and basically be 7000+ rpm the whole time.

As far as manifolds go mmr claims their composite manifold is the best n/a manifold. Its 2.6k for just the manifold though. They do have a dyno graph showing good gains over a cobra jet when revved past 7,500 rpm (holding flat power till over 8,500 rpm). But a ported cobra jet is considered one of the best manifolds.

If I were you I would decide on application first. Is this car going to be a drag strip car, race track car, roll race car, street car? If not a pure drag car then you probably want an 18+ with the 10 speed. Then decide on budget and how crazy you want the max effort n/a to be. A tall deck block would get you the most power but its also stupid expensive. Then do some research on deleting the vct and when it makes sense to do so. Picking up some high compression pistons and other upgraded parts will be the easier part of deciding what to do.

I would like to keep the VCT as I’ve read that specific technology is what allows the Coyote to produce the hp/tq it does given its displacement. What kills the valve train, rpms only? Like if I used upgraded valve train components and put the rev limiter at 8000 or so, would it survive? The of the shelves comp stage 2s state rpm range goes up to 7500rpm, so I assume that is a usable range limit, not a physical limit in the cams surviving. Though I could be wrong. If I’m going all the way I would do upgrades springs, gt350 secondaries?
I’m not looking for a drag car. I’m looking for usable street manners and ability to survive longer durations in the upper rpm range on a road course.
Thank you!

 

[Gerlacha]

I'm no MMR fan boi. But I do like the 400 inch or 6.6 wet block for N/A max effort street use.

Max effort race I'd go with the dry block.

I'm hoping, fingers crossed, Ford will make 4V Double cam TiVVt heads for the 7.3 as a last ditch FU to the electric movement.

That would be amazing.

 

[deanm11]

I'm building my 2022 with what seems like similar goals to yours. Retain VVT. I'm retaining 2018 style manifold to retain midrange power/variable runner. But I'm doing the comp cams and valvetrain upgrades in order to do what I expect to be a safe 8200rpm motor. Well, relatively safe.
I expect power drop off 7500+ since not running a CJ but staying in gear longer with torque multiplication will be worth running it to 8200 shift points. Comp says their cams are "NSR" to stock rpms... beyond that they say springs are required. My build:

Comp camps Stage 2(3?) NSR cams
PAC valve springs
Titanium retainers
MMR VVT lightweight plates
Innovators West Balancer
GT350 Tensioners and primary chains
MMR secondary chains
MMR flip bracket
Boundary complete oil pump with Billet gears
Boundary billet crank gear
Davies craig electric water pump.

 

[Gerlacha]

I gotta keep doing my hw. I hadn’t heard of MMR lightweight plates.
that’s a stout path you’re on.

 

[illtal]

I believe RPG offers a NA stroker short block. I would choose that over MMR.

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