N/A Tuner Opinions

[GregO]

Only things I can think are I switched to radials and my diff gears seem to be hurt (lots of clunking).

Tire diameter change ?
Bad Diff scrubbing off MPH ?

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[tdstuart]

The engine setup is the same. If anything I think the last engine had ring sealing issues and this engine isn't burning any oil. Also, this engine I fixed the coolant leaks.

Switched from 305/35R19 MPSS to 305/35R19 Nitto NT555R2 on the rear. Didn't have any good comparison numbers for the summer although I thought it was running slower. Started noticing clunking around the diff, found really worn diff bushings, replaced with aftermarket ones and diff is still making noise, pretty sure diff gears are damaged (not sure if pinion/ring or actual diff gears). I have also actually removed the rear seats and gutted the trunk since the last engine so the car is lighter now too.

But now that its winter d/a and temps are really close to what it was last year and I can see the car is pretty far off. A diagnosis for a different thread haha. Just want opinions on a new tuner because lund didn't seem to think there was any problem that a new tune they gave me ran so much slower.

 

[GregO]

pretty sure diff gears are damaged (not sure if pinion/ring or actual diff gears).

Have you monitored Diff temperature from run to run ?
Did you get the rear cradle, wheel and suspension corrected after running over the metal guard post ?

 

[tdstuart]

Have you monitored Diff temperature from run to run ?
Did you get the rear cradle, wheel and suspension corrected after running over the metal guard post ?

Dont have a diff temp sensor, unfortunately. Maybe I could pull over and put a temp gun on it?

And ya I replaced all the control arms that were damaged and car has been aligned twice since. Plus the whole subframe came out when I did the subframe bushings and diff bushings, didn't notice anything wrong.

What is interesting is the slower new tune (R3b rebuilt) has way different cam timing than my older faster tune (R3). The slower tune also shows around 47 lb/min of air flow while the faster tune is around 51 lb/min air flow.

Cam timing during the 3rd gear portion of the pull:
Old Tune (R3):
Intake: Starts at -20 and slowly climbs to 0 at peak rpm
Exhaust: Bounces around 30-35 during rpm range
New Tune (R3b Rebuilt):
Intake: Starts at 2 and climbs to 25
Exhaust: Bounces around 17-19

Going to try and find an old data log of a faster run from last engine and see what that's showing.
Edit: Difference in runs between previous R3 9.4 second run and current (same tune) R3 10.06 second run seems that previously car was flowing about 1 lb/min of air more throughout the run.
Edit (2): Tried to do some shitty maf corrections for d/a and fuel trims and they seem to be flowing the same (about 54.5-54.9) after corrected...

 

[Cordero1]

It might be SCT. When I flash a tune with my SCT device my trans acts up. I can flash the same exact tune with HP or PCMtec and the trans acts perfectly.

Mine is the 5th vehicle I have had this trans problem with using a SCT flashing device.

So you think it's the sct that causes the trans to act up? It doesn't do it after the flash. It would do it miles later. Or do you mean the sct won't read the afr correctly when on e85?

 

[tdstuart]

So you think it's the sct that causes the trans to act up? It doesn't do it after the flash. It would do it miles later. Or do you mean the sct won't read the afr correctly when on e85?

Car has a built in AFR gauge in the dash screen. What is that reading? Should be around 10 for e85 should be a little over 14 on pump.

Until you figure it out don't go wot. I have seen people on these forums getting e85 tunes that have the wrong afr (afr still set to pump gas)...

Can you read stft and ltft? You should be able to see how much the car is wanting to correct fuel trims over the base map. Anything past -10% to +10% for total fuel correction (stft + ltft) is generally considered getting into the realm of being unsafe.

Not sure if let's say the car is tuned for 91 with about a ~14:1 afr, if putting in e85 and letting fuel trims correct would update the afr or not. Lambda readings I know update with the fuel trim corrections, just not sure if the afr reading will be accurate.

 

[Justgonna send it]

Have you looked at Ortiz performance for tune.

 

[tdstuart]

Have you looked at Ortiz performance for tune.

Haven't but I think I have heard good things. Do you have personal experience with them?

Honestly considering getting pcm tech and tunning car myself. Only about $300 for the software and flash device. Just need to fix my laptop battery haha

 

[K4fxd]

So you think it's the sct that causes the trans to act up? It doesn't do it after the flash. It would do it miles later. Or do you mean the sct won't read the afr correctly when on e85?

Not sure about the AFR, but yes the trans will act OK for awhile then flair and shift harshly. Usually stops if I reflash the tune.

This happened with several cars and a F150. When I used the canned SCT tune it did the same thing. I sent the files to SCT and they could not find anything wrong with the tunes.

 

[Justgonna send it]

Haven't but I think I have heard good things. Do you have personal experience with them?

Honestly considering getting pcm tech and tunning car myself. Only about $300 for the software and flash device. Just need to fix my laptop battery haha

No but I have also heard good things that’s why I’m about to swap. Im on PBD and not that happy. It seem like they don’t listen to the customer anymore. I have had 3 revisions and my speed/rev limiter are still not right. My local shop offers Lund and Ortiz. So it’s a toss up. I was told lund is better for boosted car and Ortiz’s with N/A. But I could be mistaken just what I heard

 

[shogun32]

I can concur with this statement to a “T”. Then once I switched tuners my car runs great with zero issues.

And the winning tuner is?

 

[shogun32]

I second the suggestion to self tune with pcmtech. I haven't seen anybody mention Unleashed nor Steeda. Unleashed did 4 of my vehicles but I drive stick and the f150 was an A10. And I don't care about drag racing.

Steeda has a lot of press on their drag car setting records and such. And a new pumpkin is hardly a great expense.

Have you checked the bushing/bearing that anchors the drive shaft midpoint?

And frankly put the car on a Dyno. And look at it during the runs. A 3 gas probe should be able to confirm afr as well.

 

[robvas]

Bumberas beat Steeda's NA record, they had PBD/Shoemaker tune it

 

[Cordero1]

Car has a built in AFR gauge in the dash screen. What is that reading? Should be around 10 for e85 should be a little over 14 on pump.

Until you figure it out don't go wot. I have seen people on these forums getting e85 tunes that have the wrong afr (afr still set to pump gas)...

Can you read stft and ltft? You should be able to see how much the car is wanting to correct fuel trims over the base map. Anything past -10% to +10% for total fuel correction (stft + ltft) is generally considered getting into the realm of being unsafe.

Not sure if let's say the car is tuned for 91 with about a ~14:1 afr, if putting in e85 and letting fuel trims correct would update the afr or not. Lambda readings I know update with the fuel trim corrections, just not sure if the afr reading will be accurate.

I had no idea the car also had the afr option on it . I know it should be around 9ish for e85. I'll look into it as soon as this freezing cold subsides. I'll look through the last log I sent them. Thanks!

 

[Cordero1]

Not sure about the AFR, but yes the trans will act OK for awhile then flair and shift harshly. Usually stops if I reflash the tune.

This happened with several cars and a F150. When I used the canned SCT tune it did the same thing. I sent the files to SCT and they could not find anything wrong with the tunes.

You'd think a tuner with as many people as juggernaut would know this. I never used an sct tune, only their device for juggernaut tunes.

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