JohnVallo
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- Joined
- Feb 9, 2015
- Threads
- 49
- Messages
- 362
- Reaction score
- 599
- Location
- Venice, FL
- Website
- racersreunion.com
- First Name
- John
- Vehicle(s)
- '16 GT350, Shadow Black, Whipple Supercharged
- Thread starter
- #1
I finally completed my GT350 Hood Pin Solution on my 2016 GT350 and I thought it was worth sharing, even though it may not suit everyone. This should work for all 2016-2018 GT350’s
I started by doing some research on any previous installations, (articles, video’s, etc.), -Not many found-
I did find this YouTube video for a 2017 GT350, made at EasyStreetGarage:
This EasyStreetGarage installation on YouTube used the Quick Latch QL-50 kit, (Priced close to 300.00). This installation was not for me, as the location was a point 14 ½” back from front of hood (Too far back in my opinion). I think the reason they did this was to use the existing under-hood steel brackets on the GT350 located there, as well as the FP350S race cars also used this location.
My own preference is a location 6” back from front, and 10-11” in from the sides.
This always looked good and worked well in my 35+ years of late model stock car racing.
Using this location my thought was that I could actually use the Quick Latch QL-38-LP/BP kit, which uses 3/8” OD pins, instead of the ½” OD pins on the QL-50 series. These Hood Pins are rated at 500 Lbs., plenty strong enough, in my opinion. Also, the price was over a hundred dollars less than the QL-50 kit. My other preference was to keep my existing OEM hood latch operational. This is indeed providing a 3 point system. If one were to remove the OEM center hood latch, (or not use it), the QL-50 series 1/2" pins may be your answer.
The difference between the FP350S (Left), and the 2020 GT500 (Right), I like the GT500 's Hood Pin Location Better
Along came the 2020 GT500. It comes from the factory with hood pins. I studied the hood pin setup on this car and was impressed and satisfied that this car’s hood pin location was more in line with my preference. The hood on my 2016 GT350 has previously always fluttered at 120+ mph, (Not that I drive a lot at that speed), but even after I added FP hood struts, it didn’t improve much. So, since the GT500 has the awesome factory Quick Latch pins I thought it was finally time to add mine.
The 2020 GT500 Hood Pin Views, My inspiration for this project. Ford did a superb job here...
My plan was to First install (2) 3/8”-24 steel Rivet Nuts to be located at the strong point of the Carbon Fiber support, to hold the pins Then fit the 3/8” pins in (Higher at first), so I could mark/center-punch and get an exact location for the hood latch pilot hole in the hood itself. The 4" pins need to eventually be shortened, (They are too long). I cut off 1 ¾” of threads from each pin, for final installation
Hood Pin Locations, (Centered in the Strongest Area of the Carbon Fiber Support
After drilling out pilot holes to 17/32, the Rivet Nuts are installed. Used existing pin hardware for install tool.
The Pins need to be shortened, I shortened by 1 1/2" (Shown), But I had to shorten by another 1/4", So... 1 3/4" Total
On the hood, I encountered that the latch location was double layered, as well as uneven on the underside.
-No problem- :
I would drill a ¼” pilot hole through both layers, from the underside center-punch mark. Then hole-saw (just the bottom layer to 2 1/8”). Hole-saw the bottom layer first, there won't be a pilot hole in the Passenger-Side bottom layer. NOTE: Be Very, Very careful when drilling the underside. The Aluminum layers are only about 3/16" apart, and you do not want to drill through the top layer with the large hole saw. Then hole-saw the top layer to 1 1/8”. The 2 1/8” hole in the bottom layer would allow me to use a 2” OD x 1 1/8" ID aluminum washer under the jam nut, creating a strong sandwich effect as well as to allow room to tighten the jam nut.
Hood Latch Hole in Hood, Ready For Latch Installation.
Hood Latch Installation, Note Additional Aluminum Support Washer, (See Material list for how I made these washers)
The instructions that come with the Quick Latch kit are very good. The only changes I made was the drilling order, and to tighten up the specs on the hole sizes. I prefer a more exact fit without holes being too large.
I used a Dremel rotary tool with sanding bit to get an exact fit on the 1 1/8” holes
Hood Prop
If you are using the factory hood prop you need to do a slight modification: Here’s how:
Remove Hood Prop. Spread and remove the bracket from the Hood Prop Rod (Note the hole in the bracket is past the end of the rod itself). Re-install the bracket onto the rod with the hole not past the end of the rod. Drill a ¼” hole on the other side of the factory bracket rivet nut (for the bracket locator tab). Re-install Hood Prop. This effectively moves both ends of the Hood Prop away from the hood pins, still allowing proper operation.
Modified Hood Prop Installation and Location Shown.
Hood Pin Finished Look.
Added a little vinyl work around the latches. Gives them a slightly larger appearance.
QL-38-LP/BP Specifications:
Materials 6061 T6 Aluminum / 303 Stainless Steel
Holding Force: 500lbs per latch
Weight: 3.2 ounces
Height: .875 inch (22mm)
Height Below Mounting Flange: .750 inch (19mm)
OD of the latch mounting flange: 1.75 inch (44.5mm)
Thread size of latch body: 1 1/8 x 24 UNEFHole size required to mount latch: 1.25 inch (32mm)
Pin dimensions: 3/8" ball with 3/8 x 24 thread
Retaining Ring: 1.50 inch (38mm) OD x .25 inch (6.4) thickness
Minimum distance from top of mounting surface to mounting point: 1.125 inch (28.50 mm)
Maximum distance from top of mounting surface to mounting point: 3.50 inch (88 mm)
Maximum mounting angle: 18 degrees
Distance needed to engage pin into latch: .687 inch (17.5mm)
Materials/Tools Needed:
QL-38-LP/BP Quick Latch Hood Pin Kit, cost: $134.99
3/8”-24 steel Rivet Nuts (2), cost around 2.11 ea. + shipping. You can set/draw-up these using the Quick Latch hardware.
Center-punch, small hammer
Metal Hacksaw/Cut-Off saw
Dremel Rotary Tool, w/Sanding Bit
1+1/8” ID x 2” OD Aluminum Washers (2), I made my own from the 1/8" thick aluminum frying pan -Shown Below- , using the following two hole saws.
1+1/8” metal hole saw w / ¼” mandrel
2 1/8” metal hole saw w / ¼” mandrel
1/8" Thick Aluminum frying pan, $1.50 at the thrift store. (Was going to use wife's, but thought better of it!
Reference:
Rivet Nuts (Steel, plated) 3/8”-24 Vendors:
Fastenal PN: 0125628
McMASTER-CARR PN: 95105A152
Sherex Fastening Solutions: PN: CAL2-3724-312
Rivet Nut Installation Video:
I started by doing some research on any previous installations, (articles, video’s, etc.), -Not many found-
I did find this YouTube video for a 2017 GT350, made at EasyStreetGarage:
This EasyStreetGarage installation on YouTube used the Quick Latch QL-50 kit, (Priced close to 300.00). This installation was not for me, as the location was a point 14 ½” back from front of hood (Too far back in my opinion). I think the reason they did this was to use the existing under-hood steel brackets on the GT350 located there, as well as the FP350S race cars also used this location.
My own preference is a location 6” back from front, and 10-11” in from the sides.
This always looked good and worked well in my 35+ years of late model stock car racing.
Using this location my thought was that I could actually use the Quick Latch QL-38-LP/BP kit, which uses 3/8” OD pins, instead of the ½” OD pins on the QL-50 series. These Hood Pins are rated at 500 Lbs., plenty strong enough, in my opinion. Also, the price was over a hundred dollars less than the QL-50 kit. My other preference was to keep my existing OEM hood latch operational. This is indeed providing a 3 point system. If one were to remove the OEM center hood latch, (or not use it), the QL-50 series 1/2" pins may be your answer.
The difference between the FP350S (Left), and the 2020 GT500 (Right), I like the GT500 's Hood Pin Location Better
Along came the 2020 GT500. It comes from the factory with hood pins. I studied the hood pin setup on this car and was impressed and satisfied that this car’s hood pin location was more in line with my preference. The hood on my 2016 GT350 has previously always fluttered at 120+ mph, (Not that I drive a lot at that speed), but even after I added FP hood struts, it didn’t improve much. So, since the GT500 has the awesome factory Quick Latch pins I thought it was finally time to add mine.
The 2020 GT500 Hood Pin Views, My inspiration for this project. Ford did a superb job here...
My plan was to First install (2) 3/8”-24 steel Rivet Nuts to be located at the strong point of the Carbon Fiber support, to hold the pins Then fit the 3/8” pins in (Higher at first), so I could mark/center-punch and get an exact location for the hood latch pilot hole in the hood itself. The 4" pins need to eventually be shortened, (They are too long). I cut off 1 ¾” of threads from each pin, for final installation
Hood Pin Locations, (Centered in the Strongest Area of the Carbon Fiber Support
After drilling out pilot holes to 17/32, the Rivet Nuts are installed. Used existing pin hardware for install tool.
The Pins need to be shortened, I shortened by 1 1/2" (Shown), But I had to shorten by another 1/4", So... 1 3/4" Total
On the hood, I encountered that the latch location was double layered, as well as uneven on the underside.
-No problem- :
I would drill a ¼” pilot hole through both layers, from the underside center-punch mark. Then hole-saw (just the bottom layer to 2 1/8”). Hole-saw the bottom layer first, there won't be a pilot hole in the Passenger-Side bottom layer. NOTE: Be Very, Very careful when drilling the underside. The Aluminum layers are only about 3/16" apart, and you do not want to drill through the top layer with the large hole saw. Then hole-saw the top layer to 1 1/8”. The 2 1/8” hole in the bottom layer would allow me to use a 2” OD x 1 1/8" ID aluminum washer under the jam nut, creating a strong sandwich effect as well as to allow room to tighten the jam nut.
Hood Latch Hole in Hood, Ready For Latch Installation.
Hood Latch Installation, Note Additional Aluminum Support Washer, (See Material list for how I made these washers)
The instructions that come with the Quick Latch kit are very good. The only changes I made was the drilling order, and to tighten up the specs on the hole sizes. I prefer a more exact fit without holes being too large.
I used a Dremel rotary tool with sanding bit to get an exact fit on the 1 1/8” holes
Hood Prop
If you are using the factory hood prop you need to do a slight modification: Here’s how:
Remove Hood Prop. Spread and remove the bracket from the Hood Prop Rod (Note the hole in the bracket is past the end of the rod itself). Re-install the bracket onto the rod with the hole not past the end of the rod. Drill a ¼” hole on the other side of the factory bracket rivet nut (for the bracket locator tab). Re-install Hood Prop. This effectively moves both ends of the Hood Prop away from the hood pins, still allowing proper operation.
Modified Hood Prop Installation and Location Shown.
Hood Pin Finished Look.
Added a little vinyl work around the latches. Gives them a slightly larger appearance.
QL-38-LP/BP Specifications:
Materials 6061 T6 Aluminum / 303 Stainless Steel
Holding Force: 500lbs per latch
Weight: 3.2 ounces
Height: .875 inch (22mm)
Height Below Mounting Flange: .750 inch (19mm)
OD of the latch mounting flange: 1.75 inch (44.5mm)
Thread size of latch body: 1 1/8 x 24 UNEFHole size required to mount latch: 1.25 inch (32mm)
Pin dimensions: 3/8" ball with 3/8 x 24 thread
Retaining Ring: 1.50 inch (38mm) OD x .25 inch (6.4) thickness
Minimum distance from top of mounting surface to mounting point: 1.125 inch (28.50 mm)
Maximum distance from top of mounting surface to mounting point: 3.50 inch (88 mm)
Maximum mounting angle: 18 degrees
Distance needed to engage pin into latch: .687 inch (17.5mm)
Materials/Tools Needed:
QL-38-LP/BP Quick Latch Hood Pin Kit, cost: $134.99
3/8”-24 steel Rivet Nuts (2), cost around 2.11 ea. + shipping. You can set/draw-up these using the Quick Latch hardware.
Center-punch, small hammer
Metal Hacksaw/Cut-Off saw
Dremel Rotary Tool, w/Sanding Bit
1+1/8” ID x 2” OD Aluminum Washers (2), I made my own from the 1/8" thick aluminum frying pan -Shown Below- , using the following two hole saws.
1+1/8” metal hole saw w / ¼” mandrel
2 1/8” metal hole saw w / ¼” mandrel
1/8" Thick Aluminum frying pan, $1.50 at the thrift store. (Was going to use wife's, but thought better of it!
Reference:
Rivet Nuts (Steel, plated) 3/8”-24 Vendors:
Fastenal PN: 0125628
McMASTER-CARR PN: 95105A152
Sherex Fastening Solutions: PN: CAL2-3724-312
Rivet Nut Installation Video:
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