My Custom Audio Build

[ForTehNguyen]

I had a piece of particle board I cut to screw into the backseat I covered it with trunk liner material that had a pretty good color match. Used deck screws to screw the particle board to the back of the seat. Then there are shallower screws to hold the amp to the board. The miniDSP are just double sided taped with velcro. They dont weigh much. The 8 RCA cables kind of help it stay secure too.

I ran the wire like this, under the headliner and A pillar. Main reason was the power cable is ran under the passenger door sill. I wanted to keep all my signal and speaker cable away from the main power cable. Cables had to stop. The trim on the side of the dash isnt very spacious while an overhead run was. Just worked out well

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I came out of the bottom of the A pillar and ran it to a grommet (had to drill a hole in the rubber) to go to the door. I techbraided the wire and heat shrinked the ends to make it more protected and plus the insulation was white and stuck out like a sore thumb

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[Cobra Jet]

Super nice install and tech!

So are you a professional stereo installer?

 

[ForTehNguyen]

no im not, had help from my audiophile friend in parts selection and concept. Turned me into a slight snob now. Before I did any install I surveyed and planned out where I was going to run wire.

 

[gundam83]

I'm about to start my build soon and have everything but the wiring. Can you link me to which exact mouser connector you purchased. Then (correct me if I'm wrong) you soldered something like this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575RFIF2SW/Rockford-Fosgate-RFiF2SW.html to the connector and hooked it straight up to the harness leading from the head unit? Then from there you ran a pair of RCA's to the minidisp?

 

[BadDreams]

Not OP, but I ordered the three connectors from mouser and they all worked just fine

https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produ...142virtualkey53850000virtualkey538-34772-0142
https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produ...161virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-34690-0161
https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produ...160virtualkey53850000virtualkey538-34690-0160

 

[Clarkson]

I am a complete noob about subwoofers and stuff... Just wondering if I can link a subwoofer and maybe some extra speakers to the factory unit (sync3) and operate as usual?

 

[GTP]

[MENTION=15347]ForTehNguyen[/MENTION]
I was thinking that replacing the rear deck speakers with subwoofers is the ideal goal for me, and the first step to a 400a audio upgrade. The beauty is you solve the (lack of) subwoofer problem, plus you don't take up trunk space with an enclosure. The trunk therefore becomes the enclosure (infinite baffle theory).

Also, I am pretty sure that most of the distortion I hear in the factory system is coming from the rear speakers. I have yet to see the rear deck speakers uninstalled. Are they simply full-range paper cone drivers? Or, are they multi-way?

 

[TricarboNate]

[MENTION=15347]ForTehNguyen[/MENTION]
I was thinking that replacing the rear deck speakers with subwoofers is the ideal goal for me, and the first step to a 400a audio upgrade. The beauty is you solve the (lack of) subwoofer problem, plus you don't take up trunk space with an enclosure. The trunk therefore becomes the enclosure (infinite baffle theory).

Also, I am pretty sure that most of the distortion I hear in the factory system is coming from the rear speakers. I have yet to see the rear deck speakers uninstalled. Are they simply full-range paper cone drivers? Or, are they multi-way?

Open air basically, that way.

Good way to blow a sub and sound subpar at the same time. Box is way better.

 

[ForTehNguyen]

rear 400A speaker is paper, not multiway

 

[GTP]

Open air basically, that way.

Good way to blow a sub and sound subpar at the same time. Box is way better.

Nah. My design will have active EQ to control both SPL and excursion. If I use two 10" shallow subs like ForTehNguyen, then there will be plenty of headroom. No worries, certainly none for my needs.

rear 400A speaker is paper, not multiway

That is what I thought. Thanks for the info. Next I need to determine if those speakers have low-frequency high-pass filter. I suspect there is a mild 1st order filter in the low bass to protect the speaker excursion.

 

[ForTehNguyen]

well thats the entire point of a DSP you can filter out the frequencies to the sub that would cause you to hit max excursion at lower wattages. Friend put in a subsonic filter at 30Hz or else we wouldve been hitting max excursion at 30W. Yes not going to go as low as a deeper sub but trunk space and saving 40# of weight was more desireable for me

 

[mumbles]

I'm about to start my build soon and have everything but the wiring. Can you link me to which exact mouser connector you purchased. Then (correct me if I'm wrong) you soldered something like this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575RFIF2SW/Rockford-Fosgate-RFiF2SW.html to the connector and hooked it straight up to the harness leading from the head unit? Then from there you ran a pair of RCA's to the minidisp?

Here is the link to the connectors from the sticky;
34690-0160 - C4270 has the RCA-level audio and noise cancellation.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...x?R=34690-0160

The RF connector should work, then, as you said, run RCA's to the DSP.

 

[gundam83]

Another question, how do you power the dsp? I'm not sure if it's supposed to run off the battery, another power source like the fuse box, or through a distribution block. I'm guessing not through a distribution block as i'd imagine a DSP power cable being very small.

 

[mumbles]

Another question, how do you power the dsp? I'm not sure if it's supposed to run off the battery, another power source like the fuse box, or through a distribution block. I'm guessing not through a distribution block as i'd imagine a DSP power cable being very small.

From what others have said, fuse #23 in the passengers foot well stays active while the radio is active. I would buy a fuse tap from an autoparts store and run a wire from that to wherever you locate the DSP.

 

[gundam83]

From what others have said, fuse #23 in the passengers foot well stays active while the radio is active. I would buy a fuse tap from an autoparts store and run a wire from that to wherever you locate the DSP.

Thanks. Which makes me think of another question. What about the remote wire? Do I tap into the same fuse?

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