I’ve watched that video a few times lol. The difference is they are setting it up as standalone, so they have additional setup options like how you want to use the inputs and outputs. I’m using the Maestro harness so most of those initial setup options don’t apply.
But, I believe the subwoofer level setting is applicable to your situation.
I messed around with it again tonight. Re-flashed the DSR-1 and checked all of my connections. Now the sub channels are working fine. Not sure what I did differently, but glad it’s working
.Thanks! To answer your questions, yes, my door and backup chimes still play through the speakers, and yes, I do get a slight popping sound from the speakers when the car finally goes to sleep.
If you go with the DSR-1 / Meastro harness combo, this will allow chimes to play through the new audio system as it emulates the factory amplifier Can-Bus connections.
I'm glad you got it working. Likely the re-flash fixed some glitch in the system.I messed around with it again tonight. Re-flashed the DSR-1 and checked all of my connections. Now the sub channels are working fine. Not sure what I did differently, but glad it’s working
Good to hear that you have it all working. Regarding the popping noise through the speakers you can usually reduce this by setting your gains on your amps lower. Are your amps class A/B or D? I have noticed over the years sometimes a little popping or static is hard to avoid with Class D amps, but tweaking gains usually reduces it.I messed around with it again tonight. Re-flashed the DSR-1 and checked all of my connections. Now the sub channels are working fine. Not sure what I did differently, but glad it’s working
Thanks! To answer your questions, yes, my door and backup chimes still play through the speakers, and yes, I do get a slight popping sound from the speakers when the car finally goes to sleep.
Sorry, I don’t. I started off with rough measurements of the spare tire well and pieced together some cardboard boxes to about the same size, and then just cut the box down in small increments until it fit wheee I wanted it to at the bottom of the well. Cut the hole in the center where the bracket sticks up out of the week, and then traced the cardboard template onto a piece of 1/2 in MDF. Cut that out and trimmed and filed it down until it fit how I wanted it to. Then I just built everything up from there based on what I was adding and how I wanted the final look and function to be.You don't have the measurements for the amprack at hand, don't you?
And do you just use the standard trunk floor cover? Does it bend or do you support it with the amprack so you can put heavier things into your trunk?
Hey, good find. But may I ask you if you could post a photo of what you did? And which tape you used? I just found one 'Tesa' tape, and it's only about 3/4" wide; want to make sure it's the same you used. Also curious where exactly you wrapped the parts, and about how many turns. I assume the fix is to actually create pressure (when seat is latched) on that part, right? My car started rattling near the passenger C-pillar, and hope that's the culprit. Thank you.
Yes, it’s the 3/4” Tesa tape. I’m guessing it acts to fill a void which allows the latch to bang against the bracket when the bass is causing a lot of air movement. I wrapped about a 2” long piece three times around the vertical portion of the bracket, moving it down with each pass. I tried to keep it to 1 layer as much as possible to prevent it from not latching and to allow it to unlatch. I added a little to the top and bottom as well. Here are a few pictures:
