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Cathul

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Well, two 10'inch subs have more cone area than one 12 inch sub.
So it's natural that they have higher SPL.

With one driver each ported is higher SPL though.
See my screenshot. WinISD model of both sealed and ported 10w3v3 with 32liters each. Ported is tuned to around 32Hz.
Both simulations have a lowpass BW 18db at 50Hz and both have a highpass at 21db LR24db (to limit excursion below the excursion limit).
Green is ported, blue is sealed. Ported wins down to about 22Hz. ;)
jl10w3v3comparison.JPG


I guess this is the reason that Marc from CAF has chosen a ported box for the blueprint.
Ported is also way less excursion between 50Hz and 25Hz, which means lower distortion.
excursion.JPG
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Well, two 10'inch subs have more cone area than one 12 inch sub.
So it's natural that they have higher SPL.

With one driver each ported is higher SPL though.
See my screenshot. WinISD model of both sealed and ported 10w3v3 with 32liters each. Ported is tuned to around 32Hz.
Both simulations have a lowpass BW 18db at 50Hz and both have a highpass at 21db LR24db (to limit excursion below the excursion limit).
Green is ported, blue is sealed. Ported wins down to about 22Hz. ;)
jl10w3v3comparison.JPG


I guess this is the reason that Marc from CAF has chosen a ported box for the blueprint.
Ported is also way less excursion between 50Hz and 25Hz, which means lower distortion.
excursion.JPG
If the trunk was bigger I could do 2 ported drivers... but a single ported 12" box is using more volume than 2 sealed 10's. AND the dual 10's were cheaper than a single 12". I added the filters and they look very close in terms of response.

Curious to see how yours turns out.
 
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mikes2017gt

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Here are a few pictures of the new sub enclosure build after Marks (Caraudiofabrication.com) blueprint.

Subwoofer_front.jpeg
Subwoofer_side.jpeg
That is one solid-looking box! Is that 25mm MDF or 19mm (3/4"?) It seems the rest of the world has easy access to 25mm (1") MDF but here in the states you have to buy it buy the pallet of like 50 sheets.
 

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I know this is an old thread and apologies for that but I just went through this whole thread. It was amazing to learn. @mikes2017gt , did you ever finish this off and what were your thoughts? Do you still have the car?
 

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Wow! Such an awesome build! I started my project with just replacing the factory "sub" with a zen dual 12s box. Was going to just mount the amp on the box, but this thread inspired me to do the amp rack. Still a work in progress (I used an old shelf from a stereo cabinet to mount everything while I work on the final amp rack). Now, I think I'm going to replace the door/rear deck speakers...has anyone tried to not use a DSP and only the LC8i?
 

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Excellent thread. I’m stealing some of your ideas for my own setup which I’m in the process of building. I’m in Australia so I’ve got the Eruo version of the 2018 Mustang PP1 GT with the Shaker system. I’m just about to see where the easiest way to feed a power cable is for our battery’s which are on the left hand side of the engine bay.

so far I’ve managed to shove in two Focal E30kx subs between the wheel well which was a task and a half to say the least.

next step is to try and fit an amp for the front stage under the dash to save as much wiring as possible…

thanks again for inspiring my own build, sneaky couple of preview pics included. Box is exactly 2.5 cuft sealed.

A3BB0FD7-C014-4CFB-A8C5-748EF2BE319E.jpeg


596DF4B7-FE97-4B0A-BF50-2289F5E7F190.jpeg


7238BBC2-2373-4025-A3E4-F78C4CEFADA9.jpeg
 

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mikes2017gt

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Thanks for the compliment. The stand-offs are acrylic. 1 3/4" I think. Just parted them off on a lathe. Drilled and tapped. The were bolted from the bottom. I drilled a hole through the board and then a second hole to accommodate the 5mm led. Question..is your box a ported one?
For whatever reason, I stopped receiving notifications of replies to this thread. That, and I've been really wrapped up with work. Lost my job during the pandemic, found another job, then changed jobs....twice. Been a crazy couple of years!

I still have the Mustang and the system is still going strong. The sub is not ported. It is a JL Audio Stealth Box (sealed) for the 15-17 Mustangs. For a small sealed box, it pounds with a 600W RMS amp. I actually bought a JL W6 with intentions of building a ported box for it, but never got around to it for reasons stated above. Still have the W6 and and the 4" Precision Port I'm planning on using one of these days. Plus, I still really like the fact that you see nothing when I open the trunk, unless you happen to peer into the lower right corner where the sub is.

I got the system's tuning close enough without going too crazy with measurements and incessant tweaking to get the last little bit of time alignment perfect. Sometimes, real world listening and tweaking until it "sounds right" works out sounding better than when some graph shows "perfection." I will say that going with a DSP was the best thing I ever did. The amount of tweaking you can do is almost limitless. The ability to tweak crossover points and slopes and the granularity with parametric and graphic EQs is just fantastic. By far, the JL TWK-88 is the most important part of gear in the system.

I have actually upgraded the midbasses in the front doors. I was overpowering the Morels, even highpassing them at 90Hz. and blew them to pieces. :rockon:

On a whim, I decided to try some pro audio drivers, specifically, Eminence Beta 6As. Link: Eminence Beta 6A

Though they are 8-ohm drivers, the sensitivity is 94db. The cones are treated, so safe for automotive door use. RMS power handling is a crazy 175W with a proper highpass of around 95Hz. I am feeding them with 120W apiece, from bridging two channels on the XD600-6V2 amp. There is NO shortage of volume and the midbass is excellent. Keep in mind I have those 3/4" thick PVC mounting rings that are glued and screwed to the door, so the drivers have a solid mounting platform from which to operate.

I have not found the need to sound treat the door panels or the inner door skins. The double layer of Dynamat Xtreme (I think that's what it's called) I put on the outer door skin, plus the FastRings foam plugs that go behind the driver do a pretty good job of deadening things. Would it be better if I treated the doors entirely? Probably. But I don't think the ROI would be worth it.
 
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mikes2017gt

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BTW, wanted to add that the floor supports have been 100% reliable and work perfectly, though in hindsight (seeing chowman90's LED supports) they could've been smaller. And looked better. And been all nice and lit. :like:

Meh, they are functional. I regularly carry cases of water and 50lb bags of water softener salt in my trunk and have had no issues at all with the floor sagging.

Very happy with the system overall, and that's a good thing based on the amount of work it took to install and tweak everything!
 
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mikes2017gt

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Hey Mike, just thought I'd post this as you inspired me to work on my project.

20201122_145339[1].jpg


20201121_160016[1].jpg

I seriously love those LED-lit acrylic uprights. They do the same job as my "plank supports" , take up a lot less space and look way better. Well-done!
 

Ben James

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I got the system's tuning close enough without going too crazy with measurements and incessant tweaking to get the last little bit of time alignment perfect. Sometimes, real world listening and tweaking until it "sounds right" works out sounding better than when some graph shows "perfection."
Amen brother. I had a go at doing my own frequency tuning and time alignment by ear (Helix P Six DSP) to get it in the ballpark. To get it 'perfect' I then got my whole system professionally time aligned and frequency response flattened. Well.... I've just reverted back to my 'by ear' setting as the professionally done setting sounds..... boring...

Maybe my ears are getting deaf in certain areas LOL!

I have not found the need to sound treat the door panels or the inner door skins. The double layer of Dynamat Xtreme (I think that's what it's called) I put on the outer door skin, plus the FastRings foam plugs that go behind the driver do a pretty good job of deadening things. Would it be better if I treated the doors entirely? Probably. But I don't think the ROI would be worth it.
Yep. I treated the inner skin, and the trim panel but I honestly cant tell much difference apart from the extra 4 pounds of weight I've just added for minuscule results. There's a bit of a squeak at high volume next to my right mid which I bet is one of the plastic securing clips. I would have been better off just doing the outer door skin, a little around each speaker, putting some fabric tape around each securing point, and a bit of foam behind the bass driver like you did.

One thing I didn't think about until I was halfway through my install was that once you put sound deadening in, its kinda difficult to go and take it back out. It ends up being about 25-30lbs plus that's gonna be adding to your audio weight gain.

Maybe in a SUV that's no big deal, but in a Mustang we gotta hold up our performance street cred ;)
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