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JL Audio 600/6 Install

Racemaster

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I just finished my install of the JL amp in the factory location.I had already swapped all of the speakers over to the jbl's,but still felt it needed more and cleaner power.Now before everyone gets excited,be forwarned this is not a bolt-in swap.I almost gave up on more than one occasion as I was trying to fit this amp in there.Ford engineers design these cars with cad/cam programs and use every bit of space that they can.That leaves no room for us.A 1/4" left/right up/down means alot.

That being said,I started making "adaptor" plates to mount the JL to the stock bracket.It is 1/4" aluminum.You could do it in 1 piece,but I had some scraps laying around.I used 1/4-20 bolts to mount to the ford plate,and 10-32 screws to mount the amp.
Amp Bracket (Custom).jpg


AmpBracket2 (Custom).jpg


AmpBracket3 (Custom).jpg



Then,to keep the rca cables as short as possible,I made a "breakout" box which contains all of the wiring for the amp.The plugs are the 90 degree version of what others have posted.It also has the pac turn-on box wired to it.Later I drilled the cover of the box with a + pattern and tywrapped the pac unit to the cover.(Not shown)
Breakoutbox2 (Custom).jpg


Breakoutbox (Custom).jpg


The breakout box has to mounted just to the left of the sunglasses compartment..I made a small aluminum 90 degree tab to screw it to the dash.
Breakoutboxmounted (Custom).jpg


There is a ground right next to the amp which I think houses some of the stereo wiring in it.I sanded down the body and used star washers on each side of the lug.I have 0 engine noise using that ground point.I also found some 1 into 2 rca adaptors from monoprice to try and keep all connections as short as possible.Here is the amp wired up.You can see the breakout box to the left.There was no other place to mount it.I was trying for the kickpanel,but with other plugs down there it wasnt possible.
Amp wired3 (Custom).jpg


Amp wired (Custom).jpg


Then of course it didnt end there.The kickpanel had to be trimmed to fit.
Kickpanelcut (Custom).jpg


And the OBD2 connector had to be shimmed down.I made some 1/4" spacers.
OBD2spacer (Custom).jpg


So far,so good.I had the car out today and everything seems to be normal.I didnt hear any engine noise or strange pops or clicks.

I thank everyone on here that has posted the part numbers for the connectors and the schematics from ford.If anyone needs help to try this,let me know and I will try and help as best as I can.

Be well everyone

Jeff
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stang1971

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dude..... thats bad ass.....:hail::hail:
 

Redcruzer

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Yes, impressive work! Whats your feeling on sound quality compared to the original amp? Also could double sided tape be used in place of a mounting bracket or two?
 

dj_rob

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Did you use the previous wires from the factory amp or did you have to make new ones. I already have an amp in my truck that I got installed awhile ago with my Rockford p3. I have the 9 premium system and I'm looking at replacing all speakers inside the car tomorrow but I'm trying see if that factory amp can be a direct exchange with my new Rockford amp or do I have to install a new amp kit
 

RevvdMedia

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Any chance you could make a write-up on that breakout box? Looks simple enough, just curious how the wires running in are connected to the molex connectors. Is that something like a bread board in there?
 

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Racemaster

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I used a piece of prototype board I had laying around.It is from a company called BPS.Mouser stocks it.Part #PR3U.What is nice about it is it has 6 holes per "land".What that enables you to do is stager the wires apart from each other,so you are not trying to jam them all right next to each other.The part # for the plugs are the same,except you change the last digit to a 1 for 90*.Example....34690-0160 is 34691-0160.

The 90* plugs fit perfect in the board,but to use 18 gauge wire I did have to drill out the holes I was using abit.I think I made them .045" or something like that.If you look close you will see the only problem is the left channels,door woofers and rears.Those wires must be soldered from underneath.The rest of them are all on the topside.
I know I should have taken more pictures of the construction of it.
After doing this and seeing what a *itch it is to find a place to mount it,I think it would be easier to do it in 2 boxes.A really small one with a single plug for just the rca's, and another for the speakers and the turn-on device.There is just no room left under that dash to do anything.My hands are just healing from all the nicks and cuts....lol.

Any more help you need,please just ask.

Jeff
 

KevinG

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Does the base GT have a similar setup or is this specific to Shaker/Premium Mustangs?
 

floydbanks28

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The only thing I have a question about is if there are 3 plugs going in and there is only 1 coming from the ACM how does it all flow? Does the prototype board connect the 3 plugs going in all together???
 

mikes2017gt

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GREAT JOB, [MENTION=24433]Racemaster[/MENTION]! That is A LOT of work. I know how it goes; in order to put this thing here, you have to shift this other thing 1/2" that way, but the wiring harness isnt' long enough and on you go.

Great job on the fab'd mounting brackets and breakout box. Everything is labeled too, which will come in handy a year from now when you don't remember what you did. Been there, done that. LOL!

The kickpanel is the icing on the cake. I'm sure when you went to snap it on and it didn't fit you said "You have got to be kidding me?!!!". The trimmed section looks great.

Kudos for taking on such a big project and sharing how you did it.
 

floydbanks28

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I realize now there are three plugs coming out of the ACM, every thread I've seen has only focused on the one. Any way you can go into more detail about how exactly you did the remote turn on wire with that LOC?? like what pins and all that
 

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Racemaster

Racemaster

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Thank you for the kind words gentlemen.Yes it is/was a royal pain in the ass,but worth it.I feel that the shortest you can keep the wiring runs the better.Cables will pick up less noise.Also the ground that is right next to the amp that I used is tyed to the rest of the audio circuit.It is up high to the left of the amp.There is zero noise in this system and all of the sync commands work,like factory.The only thing lost is the center dash speaker.
Mike is correct,fit 1 piece and something else is in the way.It was a pain.
The JL is a great amp,and most would be pleased with the results.But I can never leave things alone,so in went the Helix Psix.Now we have adjustments!

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81102&highlight=helix

Also check out the Hertz speaker install.I am not afraid to mod anything....lol. :crazy:

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66194&highlight=hertz

Any questions or help you guys need just ask.


Jeff
 

Yager77

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Sure Revvd.
I used a piece of prototype board I had laying around.It is from a company called BPS.Mouser stocks it.Part #PR3U.What is nice about it is it has 6 holes per "land".What that enables you to do is stager the wires apart from each other,so you are not trying to jam them all right next to each other.The part # for the plugs are the same,except you change the last digit to a 1 for 90*.Example....34690-0160 is 34691-0160.

The 90* plugs fit perfect in the board,but to use 18 gauge wire I did have to drill out the holes I was using abit.I think I made them .045" or something like that.If you look close you will see the only problem is the left channels,door woofers and rears.Those wires must be soldered from underneath.The rest of them are all on the topside.
I know I should have taken more pictures of the construction of it.
After doing this and seeing what a *itch it is to find a place to mount it,I think it would be easier to do it in 2 boxes.A really small one with a single plug for just the rca's, and another for the speakers and the turn-on device.There is just no room left under that dash to do anything.My hands are just healing from all the nicks and cuts....lol.

Any more help you need,please just ask.

Jeff
Where can I find the breakout boxes? Part number? ...Such a great idea! I really hope you can help,
Best wishes
 

celica0774

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I can understand how the various factory audio connections work with aftermarket amps, but what happened with the CANBUS pins 15 and 16 on C2385A? Did you just leave them disconnected, and this did not trip a trouble code?
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