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Multiple Transmission Issues that Ford Is Denying

Rambl3r

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Those are normal noises for the MT-82. They dont bother me. Eventually, Ill swap out the transmission fluid for the BG Synchro Shift. Lots of owners on here have reported great results. Best of luck with whatever you decide to do! Overall, its a great car.
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Dominant1

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Op change the tranny fluid to amsoil, get an mgw shifter and dyno matt the trans tunnel, double up on it and you will lose 80% of the noise. The mt-82 is junk but there are quite a few band aids to help you live with it!
 

chris_keller

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The "noises" you're hearing sound normal for a drivetrain on this type of vehicle. Perhaps you've never owned a vehicle with 435+HP, but the driveline components (transmission, differential, axles) need to be heavy duty in order to handle the horsepower and torque output of this powertrain combination. As driveline components break in, their operational noise will become more apparent. The larger the transmission/axle assembly and internal components, the more audible noise it will create. Some gear noise from the driveline is NORMAL on these cars; it's not a luxury vehicle, it's a high performance pony car.
Is this sarcasm? Because there are 485 horsepower Challengers, 455 horsepower Camaros, 650 HP Z06 Vettes, etc etc that dont have all these noises and problems with their drivetrains...so why would all the noise and clunking in a Ford be due to this "monstrous" power and heavy duty parts Ford puts out? Answer....its not because of that. It's because Ford used cheap Sh!t called an MT82 in an otherwise great car.
 

TexArmageddon

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Is this sarcasm? Because there are 485 horsepower Challengers, 455 horsepower Camaros, 650 HP Z06 Vettes, etc etc that dont have all these noises and problems with their drivetrains...so why would all the noise and clunking in a Ford be due to this "monstrous" power and heavy duty parts Ford puts out? Answer....its not because of that. It's because Ford used cheap Sh!t called an MT82 in an otherwise great car.
People are still making these claims even after people are putting multiple passes on a stock mt-82 in stock and boosted form? I'd say there is a quality control issue vs the mt-82 being a pod...
 

chris_keller

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People are still making these claims even after people are putting multiple passes on a stock mt-82 in stock and boosted form? I'd say there is a quality control issue vs the mt-82 being a pod...
Could the design of the MT82 be correct and really well designed, capable of handling power and smooth shifting characteristics? Sure! But if the manufacturing process, material selection, quality control, or whatever you want to blame it on creates a faulty end product, it still makes it a POS that needs apparent revision. A lot of people i've heard from that are handling boost and making multiple passes down the track have had their MT82's upgraded by Ben Calimer, not that stock ones dont exist.
 

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TexArmageddon

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Could the design of the MT82 be correct and really well designed, capable of handling power and smooth shifting characteristics? Sure! But if the manufacturing process, material selection, quality control, or whatever you want to blame it on creates a faulty end product, it still makes it a POS that needs apparent revision. A lot of people i've heard from that are handling boost and making multiple passes down the track have had their MT82's upgraded by Ben Calimer, not that stock ones dont exist.
I blaming it on manufacturing process... I've had no whine, clunks, or whatever other noises most complain about. Again, I was like you at one point... but after new personal experiences... Getting one put together right is the issue.
That doesn't make it a CHEAP POS... just ford needs to get the quality control right. From what I'm seeing it's no worse off then the TR6060 if you get a good one.
 

chris_keller

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I blaming it on manufacturing process... I've had no whine, clunks, or whatever other noises most complain about. Again, I was like you at one point... but after new personal experiences... Getting one put together right is the issue.
That doesn't make it a CHEAP POS... just ford needs to get the quality control right. From what I'm seeing it's no worse off then the TR6060 if you get a good one.
From what I've read about other peoples problems, mine isnt all that bad. I did have to "learn" the transmission so to speak. I can shift 1-3 normally without issue, but 4th, i need to pay attention until the car is at operating temp. I have to feel for the slider to grab the syncro then slightly pause for the syncro the bring the gear to speed and let it "suck in" the shifter on its own to go in smoothly or I get a chatter sensation through the shift handle. It's almost the feeling that the cone of the gear is trying to push the syncro back off, pulsing the shifter. 5th gear is like that too. 6th is ok.
 

Cobra Jet

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Chris,

Ignore FordTechOne - if you were to look up any of his responses to ANYONE's genuine concerns about their S550's Quality Control issues on this site - he ALWAYS discounts the User (i.e.: Customer) and turns everything around that it is an owner/operator issue and/or the problems being posted are always merely "normal" for a Ford product.

The guy works for a Ford Dealership - so he can't obviously post in a genuine manner, because of the fear that if he's found out, he *could be* fired from his job if he ever so slightly AGREES that Ford's Quality Control and *some* of the Ford Franchise Ownerships are PURE SHIT.

Unfortunately, the S550 suffers from many QC issues - some being major, some being minor. The major issues, such as noted in this thread should be addressed appropriately and the Ford Customer should be made right...

If you get ANY type of emailed Ford Survey from Ford OR your Ford Service Center, blast the ever living shit out of that survey with negative experiences about the Ford Product AND the Service received. Unfortunately THAT is the only way your Dealer will respond better and work to a resolution with you - another thing is Social media... Hit up Ford's Facebook and other online pages with the complaint... That too will get "action".

Ford's Dealer model, their Quality Control and their Service Center models are broken...it's evident with all of the problems, now going 3 model years into the S550.

Best of luck.
 
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Dominant1

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What i dont get is the mustang is the one with all the problems, the f-150, fusion, focus, explorer none them have the issues the mustang has!
 

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I have been running the BG fluids for a year now. When the temps become single digits or negative, doesn't matter what fluid you have, without the fluids warming up, shifting to second or sometimes third gear is always tough! Third is still better than second though.

The fluids can't help you below 32 degrees. Sitting in the car waiting it to warm up is also pointless, cause you burn more gas in rich conditions and its not good for the engine. What i suggest is, idle the car for about 10 seconds and start driving it, without revving it too high. I try to keep it below 3000 rpms when the engine is cold. When the engine temp reaches normal then do as you please!
 

sKyZ

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I have been running the BG fluids for a year now. When the temps become single digits or negative, doesn't matter what fluid you have, without the fluids warming up, shifting to second or sometimes third gear is always tough! Third is still better than second though.

The fluids can't help you below 32 degrees. Sitting in the car waiting it to warm up is also pointless, cause you burn more gas in rich conditions and its not good for the engine. What i suggest is, idle the car for about 10 seconds and start driving it, without revving it too high. I try to keep it below 3000 rpms when the engine is cold. When the engine temp reaches normal then do as you please!
I completely disagree with this.

By allowing the car to idle and warm up for a few minutes before use, you are allowing the oil to warm up. As Sasuketer stated with the BG fluid, it doesn't operate properly at first in cold temperatures, the same goes for the oil in your engine. By allowing the oil to circulate through an engine that warms up, it is allowing it to flow better and properly circulate throughout the engine.

Also, it allows the aluminum engine components to properly expand and warm up. It also makes sure that the fuel pump isn't frozen from condensation. An engine at idling RPMs will be more likely to just stall out if there is no fuel. If an engine running at 3k RPM/65MPH runs lean, you risk engine damage.

Is a few cents worth of fuel really the reason you are not allowing the engine to properly warm up? :confused:
 

chris_keller

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I completely disagree with this.

By allowing the car to idle and warm up for a few minutes before use, you are allowing the oil to warm up. As Sasuketer stated with the BG fluid, it doesn't operate properly at first in cold temperatures, the same goes for the oil in your engine. By allowing the oil to circulate through an engine that warms up, it is allowing it to flow better and properly circulate throughout the engine.

Also, it allows the aluminum engine components to properly expand and warm up. It also makes sure that the fuel pump isn't frozen from condensation. An engine at idling RPMs will be more likely to just stall out if there is no fuel. If an engine running at 3k RPM/65MPH runs lean, you risk engine damage.

Is a few cents worth of fuel really the reason you are not allowing the engine to properly warm up? :confused:
It has nothing to do with a few cents of fuel. In fuel injected engines, when the engine is cold, the fuel does not combust and evaporate as it should. Fuel injected motors compensate for cold weather by increasing the fuel injected into the engine that, when does not evaporate, can get on the cylinder walls and clean off the oil from the cylinder wall. When that happens, there is NO lubricant protecting your engine as the gasoline has cleaned it off. So, by allowing it to sit and "warm up" you are actually damaging and creating additional wear on your engine.

You don't have to believe me, you can google it if you'd like.
 

jasonstang

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I completely disagree with this.

By allowing the car to idle and warm up for a few minutes before use, you are allowing the oil to warm up. As Sasuketer stated with the BG fluid, it doesn't operate properly at first in cold temperatures, the same goes for the oil in your engine. By allowing the oil to circulate through an engine that warms up, it is allowing it to flow better and properly circulate throughout the engine.

Also, it allows the aluminum engine components to properly expand and warm up. It also makes sure that the fuel pump isn't frozen from condensation. An engine at idling RPMs will be more likely to just stall out if there is no fuel. If an engine running at 3k RPM/65MPH runs lean, you risk engine damage.

Is a few cents worth of fuel really the reason you are not allowing the engine to properly warm up? :confused:
A few minutes is excessive. All the gasoline washing away oil film as well as diluting engine oil. Also, a cold engine idling will create a lot of condensation as well as wreck catalytic converter.
Plus your engine is warmed up but the rest of the car is still cold.
The best way to warm up is allow idle for 30 seconds to 1 minute depending on how cold the weather is. Then drive gently till engine is in normal operation temperature.
All my cars never idle more than 1 minute and none of them burn oil at all even the ones that are prone to burn oil.
 

Genxer

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Seems to me like since he has taken the car in with a complaint, if any issue arises later on he could point to that and get some help from Ford.

When it's cold I always shift slowly, especially 1-2 until about a mile down the road. Yes, it has little quirks. My Honda has always exhibited a slight notchiness when going from 4-5, but it has been doing that for a quarter million miles. 15,000 miles with the Mustang now and its little noises haven't gotten better or worse so I'm not worried at this point. I agree that improving the shifter is beneficial for drivability and fun factor (Ford erred on that one). I've read many posts about how people love driving with an improved shifter however, it won't be a cure all. Just solidly mounting my shifter was enough to keep me happy. If I was in the market I would be looking at the Barton hybrid. That looks like a great solution.
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