MT82-D4

[Scootsmcgreggor]

At least for the 15-17 cars they are not the same as the bell housing bolt patterns are different. Also overall trans length is a bit different between the two (I believe because of the bellhousing differences). Hence why FTBR makes a shift bracket for each variant. trans cross member is also different between the two. Coyote and Ecoboost block architecture is essentially the same for 18+ so dunno how it would be any different for the 18+

Sponsored

 

[illtal]

At least for the 15-17 cars they are not the same as the bell housing bolt patterns are different. Also overall trans length is a bit different between the two (I believe because of the bellhousing differences). Hence why FTBR makes a shift bracket for each variant. trans cross member is also different between the two. Coyote and Ecoboost block architecture is essentially the same for 18+ so dunno how it would be any different for the 18+

I remember them being both "D4" you cannot use an older one on the newer engines....
just don't know if they are indeed "different" from each other.

 

[NGOT8R]

You're build seems legit. I don't have the time or the expertise to build a tranny.
look here

Stage 1:

• Updated Ford hard parts
• New carbon fiber synchro's
• Billet 1-2 and 3-4 forks
• New seals, bearings, etc.
• Upgraded Calimer made 3rd and 4th gear.

That parts list and service sounds good and should make for a stronger tranny.

I think if I buy this get the upgraded 3/4 gear and the billet forks with the 26 Spline input shaft it would be a pretty stout transmission (and cheaper than a Magnum XL still). I have the shifter which would be transmission mounted so the movement of the transmission during shifts shouldn't "lock out" the gates anymore.

Definitely cheaper than a T56 Magnum XL swap. The trans mounted shifter should also be of benefit to you. What clutch will you be using with the Calimer tranny? Any plans for a half shaft upgrade?

 

[NGOT8R]

When did Calimer start adding the 3/4 billet gears to their Stage 1 builds? I had read about some 3/4 broken gears. Maybe he changed the way he approached the build in terms of adding those gears since they were prone to breaking.

I hope it works out for you and you get a well build and significantly stronger tranny than the factory one. Heck, I’ve also got my finger crossed and hoping mine will last and handle whatever I throw at it too.

 

[illtal]

Definitely cheaper than a T56 Magnum XL swap. The trans mounted shifter should also be of benefit to you. What clutch will you be using with the Calimer tranny? Any plans for a half shaft upgrade?

I will need those and maybe a CF DS with repeated beatings: I don't plan on drag racing just more half mile and circuit stuff when I get a chance.

Edit:

Spec seems to have enough holding capacity. Centerforce claims to have enough force but I'm not so sure. any recommendations? I'm not too sure which on I would want. I should see ~1300 WHP on a sheet at some point but of course riding around like that wouldn't be the plan.

 

[illtal]

When did Calimer start adding the 3/4 billet gears to their Stage 1 builds? I had read about some 3/4 broken gears. Maybe he changed the way he approached the build in terms of adding those gears since they were prone to breaking.

I hope it works out for you and you get a well build and significantly stronger tranny than the factory one. Heck, I’ve also got my finger crossed and hoping mine will last and handle whatever I throw at it too.

I am not sure when he started this but my eyes opened when I saw this. 3/4 are the most used gears. There is an option to add the 26 Spline input to stage 1/2 as well. I don't want the noisy stage 3. For that I WOULD just buy a Magnum XL and deal with that instead.

 

[NGOT8R]

I will need those and maybe a CF DS with repeated beatings: I don't plan on drag racing just more half mile and circuit stuff when I get a chance.

Edit:

Spec seems to have enough holding capacity. Centerforce claims to have enough force but I'm not so sure. any recommendations? I'm not too sure which on I would want. I should see ~1300 WHP on a sheet at some point but of course riding around like that wouldn't be the plan.

Will you be removing and reinstalling the tranny yourself? I found it to be a bit of a PITA (more so, tedious careful work to avoid resting the weight of the tranny on the input shaft and making sure it seats against the engine block without forcing them to come together). With that being said, I would want to use a clutch that will allow you to grow into it since you’ll be adding more power. If you don’t mind pulling it again to upgrade the clutch down the road then I would say get what is capable of handling the current power level.

I went with the Ram Pro Street twin disc cerametallic. It’s definitely a much different feel and harder to drive on the street than the factory organic clutch. I haven’t learned to able to really slip it, which makes it tougher to drive at slow speeds. I haven’t stalled the car yet, but have come close a few times. It seems like the clutch is either on or off. It’s more clutch than the car needs, but I was aware of that going into it. I just accepted that because I didn’t want to be pulling the tranny anytime soon, so that was the determine factor for me.

 

[illtal]

Will you be removing and reinstalling the tranny yourself? I found it to be a bit of a PITA (more so, tedious careful work to avoid resting the weight of the tranny on the input shaft and making sure it seats against the engine block without forcing them to come together). With that being said, I would want to use a clutch that will allow you to grow into it since you’ll be adding more power. If you don’t mind pulling it again to upgrade the clutch down the road then I would say get what is capable of handling the current power level.

I went with the Ram Pro Street twin disc cerametallic. It’s definitely a much different feel and harder to drive on the street than the factory organic clutch. I haven’t learned to able to really slip it, which makes it tougher to drive at slow speeds. I haven’t stalled the car yet, but have come close a few times. It seems like the clutch is either on or off. It’s more clutch than the car needs, but I was aware of that going into it. I just accepted that because I didn’t want to be pulling the tranny anytime soon, so that was the determine factor for me.

This one is the one you bought?
Ram 60-2239 2018-2021 Mustang GT Pro Street Dual Disc Clutch Kit w/300 Series Discs (lethalperformance.com)

I'm thinking P SS or ST trim

 

[NGOT8R]

I bought this one direct from Ram Clutches.

https://ramclutches.com/product/60-2239N/

Sponsored