MT82-D4 rebuild thread

[Scootsmcgreggor]

You’d have to build a jig to heat treat those forks after welding to straighten them out and bring the strength back. Aluminum distorts a ton when welded, all else being equal. Especially fillets like those shown, and welding castings can have variable results depending on the casting quality and alloy. I’ve done a fair bit of aluminum welding and I don’t think I’d take those on, would recommend billet if possible.

Sponsored

 

[Turbogeek]

@NGOT8R I hope you don't mind the thread bump, but would you be able to tell us what the medium and large puller you use during the thread are? Are they equivalent to the OTC 1039 that the Ford manual mentions, or something else? I'm looking at stripping a non-D4 MT-82 and the ones you've used look like just the job.

 

[NGOT8R]

Yes, the OTC brand pullers are the ones that I have.

 

[Turbogeek]

Thankyou for the tip - the OTC 1040 fitted great, and did the job without breaking a sweat (or luckily anything else.....)

 

[Grimreaper]

Would the otc 1039 work? 11 inch reach vs 15 of the otc1040

 

[Turbogeek]

Probably, the factory manual calls out the 1039. In my case there was about $10 difference between the two, I had a discount code for Zoro.com.
No affiliation with Zoro, just where I found it cheapest new.

 

[Turbogeek]

Coming back to this one, a thing to note is that for a non-D4 'box, the hook end of the legs on the 1040 puller are slightly too wide to fit either side of the centre support plate with the puller assembled. The way around this is to disconnect one leg of the puller and maneuver the legs in individually.

Also, not sure if the 1039 would be long enough to remove the centre support, as the manual for the non-D4 calls out the use of the synro gear pack remover instead. The 1040 was set to the middle holes on the legs, and was quite far extended.

The 2nd gear and centre support was very easy to remove, however.

 

[NGOT8R]

Coming back to this one, a thing to note is that for a non-D4 'box, the hook end of the legs on the 1040 puller are slightly too wide to fit either side of the centre support plate with the puller assembled. The way around this is to disconnect one leg of the puller and maneuver the legs in individually.

Also, not sure if the 1039 would be long enough to remove the centre support, as the manual for the non-D4 calls out the use of the synro gear pack remover instead. The 1040 was set to the middle holes on the legs, and was quite far extended.

The 2nd gear and centre support was very easy to remove, however.

Good stuff! Please keep posting. Can you share any info. on how many miles you had on the tranny when you pulled it, what problems you were experiencing and whether you were easy or hard on it?

Any plans to upgrade the internals? I don‘t know if they make billet forks for the MT82, but they can be enhanced/reinforced with additional welding and/or cryogenically them, along with all other hard parts.

 

[Turbogeek]

Thankyou for allowing me to gatecrash your thread! Actually this gearbox is a spare that I bought to take apart, with the view to stripping and repairing the one in my car. This 'box is an S197 one, I'm told it had around 100k miles on it but was crunchy into 4th gear. I've found the plastic shift pads are loose in the shift fork, but I'm not sure if that's enough to cause an issue.

The one in my S550 only has 65k miles on it, and is daily driven carefully, but has what I think is a rough countershaft bearing, as it's grumbly in every gear except 5th.

My plan is to practice on this 'box, and then at some point attack the one that's fitted to the car.

As I didn't want to spend $$$ on the all the special tools I made a front seal puller, got the detents out with pry bars after heating the case gently with a hot air gun, and then got stuck with the gear stop pad.

So I made a tool for my slide hammer, using Home Depot's finest steel stock (lol) and a 5/8-18 nut.

The front seal puller worked a treat, whereas the stop pad puller didn't, it just started to give up.

So adding some sides for triangulation got it a bit stronger. It's messy due to Flux Core weld spatter, but it worked.

I can share drawings for the seal puller and stop pad puller if anyone's interested. For next time, I'll definitely make a smaller version of the stop pad puller for the detents.

I've now got the centre support out, and am about to try to get the shafts out.

Sponsored