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Bassackwards

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Good morning all! I believe that I have read every post in this group regarding stereo upgrades! As usual, this makes me question my plan more and more! We once had an Escalade with the Bose system and the "spacious" mode was very pleasant.

I have a 2022 GT/CS convertible with the 9 speaker system. I'm in my mid 50s and have some hearing loss.

I plan to use the factory amp and add a mono amp and sub.

In my cart I have:

Rockford Fosgate R165-S components for the A pillars and lower doors
Rockford Fosgate P132 3.5" 2 way for the upper doors
Rockford Fosgate R1675x2 2 way for the rear side panels

My questions--

Crutchfield says some of these won't fit but others say they do. Is this a problem?

Any negatives to the RF equipment?

Will all these tweeters negatively impact the sound?

Should I eliminate the tweeters in the upper door or leave them?

Would Infinity Reference REF 375TX that can pivot in their housing be more desirable tweeters?

If I switch to these should I change the upper door speakers and rears as well?

For the sub setup I have chosen the Audiocontrol ACM 1 300 with the plug and play harness. It seems to offer 300 watts @ 2 ohms and has great reviews.

I plan to either snag a B&O box and replace the sub or try to build a fiberglass one. If I build I would like to squeeze a shallow 12" in there and am looking at the Polk DV 1242 DVC (1.25 cf box) that has great reviews or the JBL club WS1200 (.75 cf box). Both appear to work well in a smaller enclosure. BTW does anyone know what size the DYI fiberglass ends up being?

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Bassackwards

Bassackwards

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Another option is to spring for Hertz MP 25.3 Mille Pro tweeters then see what else I might want to add. This won't affect my sub options
 

RagmopInKona

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R/F gear is. Very good. The prime or power line is the lower line the punch is the higher end stuff.
 

20ducks

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Keep in mind that a convertible doesn't give much back to the cabin due to the soft top and you drive with the top down. Lower end frequencies are muddled sooooo upgrades won't give you the sound return as a hard top will. Good luck with the install.
 

Socal Stangman

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Too many tweeters. You don’t want tweets in the doors and in the pillars, it’s overkill,especially RF. They tend to have a tweeter that is a little more on the harsh side. Personally I’d look more at the Hertz stuff.
 

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StangTime

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Too many tweeters. You don’t want tweets in the doors and in the pillars, it’s overkill,especially RF. They tend to have a tweeter that is a little more on the harsh side. Personally I’d look more at the Hertz stuff.
Good advice right here. ⬆

Choose only one:
1. A-pillar tweeters only, no upper midrange in the door. Seal the hole behind the panel (I run this way) 2-way system.
2. A-pillar tweeters + upper midrange in the door (NOT a coaxial!) 3-way system.
3. Delete A-pillar tweeters, use coaxial upper midrange.

Go with whatever 6.5" mid-bass with fit in the door.

Note! If you plan to use an aftermarket tweeter, you must use a basic passive crossover to limit low frequency energy to the tweeter or you will fry the voice coil. Consult the spec sheets of the tweeter you plan to use.

The Hertz Mille 2-way kit has fantastic sound quality. Very deep bass if you mount the driver well. The 3-way is even better but complicates the install (requires the passive crossover) and you need to spend way more money to do it.
 
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Bassackwards

Bassackwards

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Good advice right here. ⬆

Choose only one:
1. A-pillar tweeters only, no upper midrange in the door. Seal the hole behind the panel (I run this way) 2-way system.
2. A-pillar tweeters + upper midrange in the door (NOT a coaxial!) 3-way system.
3. Delete A-pillar tweeters, use coaxial upper midrange.

Go with whatever 6.5" mid-bass with fit in the door.

Note! If you plan to use an aftermarket tweeter, you must use a basic passive crossover to limit low frequency energy to the tweeter or you will fry the voice coil. Consult the spec sheets of the tweeter you plan to use.

The Hertz Mille 2-way kit has fantastic sound quality. Very deep bass if you mount the driver well. The 3-way is even better but complicates the install (requires the passive crossover) and you need to spend way more money to do it.



This is the way I'm leaning. Any experience with Crutchfield bass blockers?

What do you think about a JBL 1224 12" club sub in a custom made fiberglass enclosure? They are supposed to perform with a .75 cf sealed box. I'm looking at an Audiocontrol 300 w sub amp.

All I need are cleaner highs and some thump.
 

NGOT8R

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This is the way I'm leaning. Any experience with Crutchfield bass blockers?

What do you think about a JBL 1224 12" club sub in a custom made fiberglass enclosure? They are supposed to perform with a .75 cf sealed box. I'm looking at an Audiocontrol 300 w sub amp.

All I need are cleaner highs and some thump.
I have that sub amp and it’s very powerful for its size. Plenty of boom, boom!
 

StangTime

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This is the way I'm leaning. Any experience with Crutchfield bass blockers?

What do you think about a JBL 1224 12" club sub in a custom made fiberglass enclosure? They are supposed to perform with a .75 cf sealed box. I'm looking at an Audiocontrol 300 w sub amp.

All I need are cleaner highs and some thump.
There is only 1 bass blocker Crutchfield sells meant for tweeters but it has a 5Khz cut-off. Which is ok for a 3-way speaker setup but a bit too high for a 2-way. I recommend using the passive crossover that comes with the tweeters or component set you buy.
 
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Bassackwards

Bassackwards

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There is only 1 bass blocker Crutchfield sells meant for tweeters but it has a 5Khz cut-off. Which is ok for a 3-way speaker setup but a bit too high for a 2-way. I recommend using the passive crossover that comes with the tweeters or component set you buy.

Crutchfield said that the tweeters do not come with a crossover but the component set does. They also said that the 6.5 won't fit but I think they are mistaken on that.
 

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StangTime

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Crutchfield said that the tweeters do not come with a crossover but the component set does. They also said that the 6.5 won't fit but I think they are mistaken on that.
That's correct about the crossovers. I bought the Mille 2-way set (active system. so I didn't use the crossovers). The mid-bass drivers fit just fine with a little custom spacer work. See the link below. At the bottom of the post is a PDF file for the spacer drawing. I also have a 3D printer version for these spacers that includes a rain shield if you have a 3D printer.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/upgrade-9-speaker-system.148312/post-3030397


1679514728099.png
 

RagmopInKona

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Too many tweeters. You don’t want tweets in the doors and in the pillars, it’s overkill,especially RF. They tend to have a tweeter that is a little more on the harsh side. Personally I’d look more at the Hertz stuff.
Well yes and no. As some of us are 50 plus and our hearing isn't as good as it once was and the highs are the first to go. So a speaker set that is "bright" might be better for those that have lost much of the hearing at the high frequencies .
I am having this issue with the oem b.o. set up the highs are ok but the mid bass is way to pronounced with anything other than 80'sdance music or rap.
 
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Bassackwards

Bassackwards

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That's correct about the crossovers. I bought the Mille 2-way set (active system. so I didn't use the crossovers). The mid-bass drivers fit just fine with a little custom spacer work. See the link below. At the bottom of the post is a PDF file for the spacer drawing. I also have a 3D printer version for these spacers that includes a rain shield if you have a 3D printer.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/upgrade-9-speaker-system.148312/post-3030397


1679514728099.png

Those look great but I don't have a printer yet. Maybe my kid has access to one.

Are you running an aftermarket amp? I'm guessing so since factory is lows to the 6.5 and mids and highs to the 3.5/ tweeter.

I'm trying to boost sound without spending a bundle. Blew my budget on buying a new Mustang vs used.
 

Cathul

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Well yes and no. As some of us are 50 plus and our hearing isn't as good as it once was and the highs are the first to go. So a speaker set that is "bright" might be better for those that have lost much of the hearing at the high frequencies .
I am having this issue with the oem b.o. set up the highs are ok but the mid bass is way to pronounced with anything other than 80'sdance music or rap.
No, it's not... hearing loss rarely is below 8-10kHz and most harshness comes from large peaks in the 3-7kHz area and need to be tamed down with a DSP.
With a DSP you can make a metal dome tweeter sound like a softdome tweeter f.e.
There are many good tuned systems with Focal speakers that are considered to be harsh and forward in your face sounding absolutely mellow. It all depends on the tuning and is one of the reasons i would always advice to incorporate a DSP in every system.
If budget is constraint even a smaller DSP amplifier would be way better than any passive system without any equalization available.

And i'm not talking about equalization available in most headunits, but basic 10 channel per driver EQ in the more budget friendly DSP options. This is the biggest asset you can have and could even make the stock speakers sound better than any aftermarket passive system.

I would even go so far and recommend to change the stock amp first for a new and capable DSP amplifier and stay with stock speakers if budget is limited.
 
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Bassackwards

Bassackwards

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No, it's not... hearing loss rarely is below 8-10kHz and most harshness comes from large peaks in the 3-7kHz area and need to be tamed down with a DSP.
With a DSP you can make a metal dome tweeter sound like a softdome tweeter f.e.
There are many good tuned systems with Focal speakers that are considered to be harsh and forward in your face sounding absolutely mellow. It all depends on the tuning and is one of the reasons i would always advice to incorporate a DSP in every system.
If budget is constraint even a smaller DSP amplifier would be way better than any passive system without any equalization available.

And i'm not talking about equalization available in most headunits, but basic 10 channel per driver EQ in the more budget friendly DSP options. This is the biggest asset you can have and could even make the stock speakers sound better than any aftermarket passive system.

I would even go so far and recommend to change the stock amp first for a new and capable DSP amplifier and stay with stock speakers if budget is limited.

It sounds fabulous but I'm hesitant. Spring is here and I'm ready to ride.

I'm looking for a quick easy improvement
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