Mirror studs spinning any solutions?

[SHOdaddy68]

I'm fine buying a mirror at this point I just want it fixed. (The door painted which was the original issue). They claim they tried pulling and twisting while unbolting and nothing helped. So I'm at the point where I need to pickup the car (they won't cut the bolts out since they said they can't do it without damaging the door). And get the mirror off. How likely am I to fuckup if I just sawzaw the mirror off and either chop away the plastic slowly and carefully or as carefully as I can, it's gunna need paint either way, or just saying fuck it and grabbing a torch and melting the mirror until it's a liquid plastic and can no longer hold. I'm assuming the threaded inserts have a flat backing plate molded into the plastic which means they won't release but will spin?. They spin freely but won't pull out. the shop even said they used a ratchet strap and pulled right to the point that any.mroe force would bend the door.

Sponsored

 

[SHOdaddy68]

Well that sounds like a real $#*TTY situation for sure. Sorry about that bro.
Smacking it with a hammer may cause damage to the mounting plate on the door and dent the door skin when it does come loose. Definitely stay away from the torch. That is unless you have a micro-torch that will put heat directly to the nuts/bolts themselves and maybe transfer some heat through to the anchor point and fuse them in enough to break them loose.
A Sawzall would work too but obviously care would be needed to keep the cut confined to the mirror only.
Whatever you do, you should unplug the mirror from the door harness to prevent and damage to the body harness.

Good luck!

 

[Outlaw]

Well that sounds like a real $#*TTY situation for sure. Sorry about that bro.
Smacking it with a hammer may cause damage to the mounting plate on the door and dent the door skin when it does come loose. Definitely stay away from the torch. That is unless you have a micro-torch that will put heat directly to the nuts/bolts themselves and maybe transfer some heat through to the anchor point and fuse them in enough to break them loose.
A Sawzall would work too but obviously care would be needed to keep the cut confined to the mirror only.
Whatever you do, you should unplug the mirror from the door harness to prevent and damage to the body harness.

Good luck!

I'm going to ask the shop to have it unplugged. They have the door panel off already and window trim removed in prep for the door but got stuck at the mirror also please tell me the window weatherstrip alone the out and inside of the window that it rubs against is more for the window and not water? The outside turn for the little triangle area is removed as is all the trim and stuff and I really hope it won't let water in because it's outside and pouring. Also they informed me that my less than 1 year old xs power d4700 is continually going dead and that they sometimes hear a ticking when walking by. Battery or something else? Only accessories I have are oracle RGB headlights .(Used to kill the battery but now they are wired to a ignition on fuse and only active/searching for Bluetooth when the car is on) And a dashcam but that shuts off at 12v like I have it set and shouldn't kill a battery that is designed to run custom speaker setups etc? This car has been a nightmare honestly but I plan to keep it now so I might as well get it back to 8/10 condition or so

 

[Gen 6 Mach1]

Explain why it's a nightmare, the aftermarket lights , was any other accessories added by you or the previous owner or owners , it's not fair evaluation to put on the car . Year and milage , high mileage daily driven ? Things wear out , all car manufacturers have there problems, Chevrolet has the 6.2 L , Toyota 3.4L twin turbo engines , Nissan, to name a few . Anyway try another shop . This can't be the first S550 Door ever fixed . Good luck .

 

[SHOdaddy68]

I'm going to ask the shop to have it unplugged. They have the door panel off already and window trim removed in prep for the door but got stuck at the mirror also please tell me the window weatherstrip alone the out and inside of the window that it rubs against is more for the window and not water? The outside turn for the little triangle area is removed as is all the trim and stuff and I really hope it won't let water in because it's outside and pouring. Also they informed me that my less than 1 year old xs power d4700 is continually going dead and that they sometimes hear a ticking when walking by. Battery or something else? Only accessories I have are oracle RGB headlights .(Used to kill the battery but now they are wired to a ignition on fuse and only active/searching for Bluetooth when the car is on) And a dashcam but that shuts off at 12v like I have it set and shouldn't kill a battery that is designed to run custom speaker setups etc? This car has been a nightmare honestly but I plan to keep it now so I might as well get it back to 8/10 condition or so

The "Belt molding" weatherstrip does keep some water out but not all of it. The rest flows through the door and drains out the bottom. you may have issues with the window until it all gets back together.

 

[Outlaw]

Explain why it's a nightmare, the aftermarket lights , was any other accessories added by you or the previous owner or owners , it's not fair evaluation to put on the car . Year and milage , high mileage daily driven ? Things wear out , all car manufacturers have there problems, Chevrolet has the 6.2 L , Toyota 3.4L twin turbo engines , Nissan, to name a few . Anyway try another shop . This can't be the first S550 Door ever fixed . Good luck .

2017 got it at 52k miles it's at like 63k now. Radiator fan bearings
wheel bearings,
rotors decided to crack
calipers melted the boots and seized up in the rear
front brembos seized up and took 15+ hours with hammers and sledgehammers and alot of dings and scratches just to remove the pins
driveshaft went
window doesn't seal/hisses wind when driving
Car eats batteries even before I added a single accessories which is 2. A dashcam and the headlights but the headlights no longer get power with the car off and thus shouldn't be an issue and the dashcam shuts down at 12v
OEM rims leaked all around the bead no clear reason why but needed replaced
Taillight corroded and needed fixing/ new wiring.
Holes in trunk where the body tape fell off causing moisture to soak the carpet and create mold.
Fords crappy paint is both missed in spots, rusting through on the roof and peeling/chipping.
Radio knob is messed up and I never use it but it's still broken (tune knob will actually pull outwards and stop working over time and is super stiff and doesn't turn very well).
Dash rattles like a dying animal from behind the gauge cluster area but I've tripped all the trim and there's nothing there that could make the noise.
Fords crappy body design dumps water from the roof and trunk directly into the rear bumper support/brace and it's almost fully rusted through and will require the body to be cut and a new section welded in shortly which for the miles shouldn't need done. For reference my 2006 I had was over 2x the miles and always kept outside and driven in snow and salt and had virtually 0 rust. The 2017 has rust EVERYWHERE. Every steeling and suspension and differential and axle are rusted. Several spots where the rusts is falling off and extremely bad to the point the car will need krown or similar undercoating every year just to try and slow the rust down. And apparently there were even more issues before I got it including it needing a replacement engine at like 20-25k miles and a shop as I was noted ran the car with 0 oil in it for a short time (sub 2 minutes no noticable damage so I couldnt make them replace anything as technically nothing was broken.
And more issues I can't even think of. THAT is why this car is a nightmare. Paid I think 30k after taxes and title transfer for it and had to replace all of that stuff and whatnot and driveshaft alone was 1k+ so I'm probably 40k deep with more to come as I get the car painted and professionally buffed and ceramic coated so I can try to protect it for asking as I keep it and have it remain nice. Could've bought a showroom brand new car for the money I'm into it ffs.

Issues from me,
2018+ intake air box and tube on 2017 (wider tube at Maf) the pcv line coming off the side is running a hole through my coolant tank and I can't find a single solution to delete the line or any replacement tank solutions that fix the issue.

 

[Outlaw]

The "Belt molding" weatherstrip does keep some water out but not all of it. The rest flows through the door and drains out the bottom. you may have issues with the window until it all gets back together.

Just ordered myself a mirror off eBay. It's for a 18-19 but iirc the mirrors are compatible for 15-23. Any idea on if a Ford dealership will have the hardware in stock or if I'll be waiting for shipping for new hardware as it doesn't come with any. The black plastic might need a bit of restoring but for 100$ basically even I can't argue. Way better than the new cost but I am concerned that the nuts will scream free again and spin upon tightening

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

2017 got it at 52k miles it's at like 63k now. Radiator fan bearings
wheel bearings,
rotors decided to crack
calipers melted the boots and seized up in the rear
front brembos seized up and took 15+ hours with hammers and sledgehammers and alot of dings and scratches just to remove the pins
driveshaft went
window doesn't seal/hisses wind when driving
Car eats batteries even before I added a single accessories which is 2. A dashcam and the headlights but the headlights no longer get power with the car off and thus shouldn't be an issue and the dashcam shuts down at 12v
OEM rims leaked all around the bead no clear reason why but needed replaced
Taillight corroded and needed fixing/ new wiring.
Holes in trunk where the body tape fell off causing moisture to soak the carpet and create mold.
Fords crappy paint is both missed in spots, rusting through on the roof and peeling/chipping.
Radio knob is messed up and I never use it but it's still broken (tune knob will actually pull outwards and stop working over time and is super stiff and doesn't turn very well).
Dash rattles like a dying animal from behind the gauge cluster area but I've tripped all the trim and there's nothing there that could make the noise.
Fords crappy body design dumps water from the roof and trunk directly into the rear bumper support/brace and it's almost fully rusted through and will require the body to be cut and a new section welded in shortly which for the miles shouldn't need done. For reference my 2006 I had was over 2x the miles and always kept outside and driven in snow and salt and had virtually 0 rust. The 2017 has rust EVERYWHERE. Every steeling and suspension and differential and axle are rusted. Several spots where the rusts is falling off and extremely bad to the point the car will need krown or similar undercoating every year just to try and slow the rust down. And apparently there were even more issues before I got it including it needing a replacement engine at like 20-25k miles and a shop as I was noted ran the car with 0 oil in it for a short time (sub 2 minutes no noticable damage so I couldnt make them replace anything as technically nothing was broken.
And more issues I can't even think of. THAT is why this car is a nightmare. Paid I think 30k after taxes and title transfer for it and had to replace all of that stuff and whatnot and driveshaft alone was 1k+ so I'm probably 40k deep with more to come as I get the car painted and professionally buffed and ceramic coated so I can try to protect it for asking as I keep it and have it remain nice. Could've bought a showroom brand new car for the money I'm into it ffs.

Issues from me,
2018+ intake air box and tube on 2017 (wider tube at Maf) the pcv line coming off the side is running a hole through my coolant tank and I can't find a single solution to delete the line or any replacement tank solutions that fix the issue.

Dude, the issues you just described hints that this car was possibly flood damaged. My son bought a car (without my input) and it had similar issues with the electrical and rust. And his engine was junk and seized after a short while. Every time I looked at it I found rust where there should not of been. Some cars don't get reported as flood damaged and fly under the radar. So sorry that you are having so much trouble with this car.

 

[SHOdaddy68]

Once you get the old mirror off you should be able to harvest the fasteners you'll need to install your Ebay replacement.

I'm in 100% agreement with the previous comment about prior flood damage. It explains everything on your list of issues.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Is the shop not capable of doing an R&R of the mirror assembly? I mean to me, it doesn’t make sense if they are a reputable body shop - where most body shops should be able to handle and overcome such obstacles when repairing any damaged vehicle OR just doing basic paint repairs. They HAVE to have the tools, skills and tech necessary to remove a mirror base or complete mirror off a door - regardless if it’s a Mustang or other…

Now back to your mirror purchase on eBay…

There are differences between the mirrors from 2015-17 and 2018-2023. The reason being is there were only certain options available to the 2015-17 S550’s that were incorporated into the mirror housing or glass where in 2018-2023, more features that used to be “optional” in 2015-17 then became either standard OR there were additional features in 2018-2023 for the mirror for certain module functions based on the trim level.

Is that a big concern - not really…. Basic function and design should be the same. However if your shop is stumbling with a mirror base and the new mirror you receive has more features than the original, then they might have another curve ball to overcome.

 

[Gen 6 Mach1]

2017 got it at 52k miles it's at like 63k now. Radiator fan bearings
wheel bearings,
rotors decided to crack
calipers melted the boots and seized up in the rear
front brembos seized up and took 15+ hours with hammers and sledgehammers and alot of dings and scratches just to remove the pins
driveshaft went
window doesn't seal/hisses wind when driving
Car eats batteries even before I added a single accessories which is 2. A dashcam and the headlights but the headlights no longer get power with the car off and thus shouldn't be an issue and the dashcam shuts down at 12v
OEM rims leaked all around the bead no clear reason why but needed replaced
Taillight corroded and needed fixing/ new wiring.
Holes in trunk where the body tape fell off causing moisture to soak the carpet and create mold.
Fords crappy paint is both missed in spots, rusting through on the roof and peeling/chipping.
Radio knob is messed up and I never use it but it's still broken (tune knob will actually pull outwards and stop working over time and is super stiff and doesn't turn very well).
Dash rattles like a dying animal from behind the gauge cluster area but I've tripped all the trim and there's nothing there that could make the noise.
Fords crappy body design dumps water from the roof and trunk directly into the rear bumper support/brace and it's almost fully rusted through and will require the body to be cut and a new section welded in shortly which for the miles shouldn't need done. For reference my 2006 I had was over 2x the miles and always kept outside and driven in snow and salt and had virtually 0 rust. The 2017 has rust EVERYWHERE. Every steeling and suspension and differential and axle are rusted. Several spots where the rusts is falling off and extremely bad to the point the car will need krown or similar undercoating every year just to try and slow the rust down. And apparently there were even more issues before I got it including it needing a replacement engine at like 20-25k miles and a shop as I was noted ran the car with 0 oil in it for a short time (sub 2 minutes no noticable damage so I couldnt make them replace anything as technically nothing was broken.
And more issues I can't even think of. THAT is why this car is a nightmare. Paid I think 30k after taxes and title transfer for it and had to replace all of that stuff and whatnot and driveshaft alone was 1k+ so I'm probably 40k deep with more to come as I get the car painted and professionally buffed and ceramic coated so I can try to protect it for asking as I keep it and have it remain nice. Could've bought a showroom brand new car for the money I'm into it ffs.

Issues from me,
2018+ intake air box and tube on 2017 (wider tube at Maf) the pcv line coming off the side is running a hole through my coolant tank and I can't find a single solution to delete the line or any replacement tank solutions that fix the issue.

I'm sorry your having issues, some to most are milage related along with winter driving in salt conditions , don't compare your 17 with the 06 , (my 21 with 7 k and never driven in rain, like living in Arizona low to no humidity,has the cast parts surface rust from washing. And sorry to say as noted above maybe flood damage . I looked at you picture beautiful car . I'm not going to say more , other than cars are not built to last the miles they use to many years ago . Your lucky to see a 10 to 15 year old daily driver still in the road . How often do you see a 2010 anything still on the road , almost never. 10 to 15 years of daily driving any more is pushing it . I purchased a 2009 Impala new daily driver and sold in 2019 ,10 years old , now you don't even see 2010 , 2015 very few . The first S550 are approaching 10 years old , add daily driving in all conditions= short life span . Good luck my Mustang friend . I hope all works out with the door .

 

[DaveB]

2017 got it at 52k miles it's at like 63k now. Radiator fan bearings
wheel bearings,
rotors decided to crack
calipers melted the boots and seized up in the rear
front brembos seized up and took 15+ hours with hammers and sledgehammers and alot of dings and scratches just to remove the pins
driveshaft went
window doesn't seal/hisses wind when driving
Car eats batteries even before I added a single accessories which is 2. A dashcam and the headlights but the headlights no longer get power with the car off and thus shouldn't be an issue and the dashcam shuts down at 12v
OEM rims leaked all around the bead no clear reason why but needed replaced
Taillight corroded and needed fixing/ new wiring.
Holes in trunk where the body tape fell off causing moisture to soak the carpet and create mold.
Fords crappy paint is both missed in spots, rusting through on the roof and peeling/chipping.
Radio knob is messed up and I never use it but it's still broken (tune knob will actually pull outwards and stop working over time and is super stiff and doesn't turn very well).
Dash rattles like a dying animal from behind the gauge cluster area but I've tripped all the trim and there's nothing there that could make the noise.
Fords crappy body design dumps water from the roof and trunk directly into the rear bumper support/brace and it's almost fully rusted through and will require the body to be cut and a new section welded in shortly which for the miles shouldn't need done. For reference my 2006 I had was over 2x the miles and always kept outside and driven in snow and salt and had virtually 0 rust. The 2017 has rust EVERYWHERE. Every steeling and suspension and differential and axle are rusted. Several spots where the rusts is falling off and extremely bad to the point the car will need krown or similar undercoating every year just to try and slow the rust down. And apparently there were even more issues before I got it including it needing a replacement engine at like 20-25k miles and a shop as I was noted ran the car with 0 oil in it for a short time (sub 2 minutes no noticable damage so I couldnt make them replace anything as technically nothing was broken.
And more issues I can't even think of. THAT is why this car is a nightmare. Paid I think 30k after taxes and title transfer for it and had to replace all of that stuff and whatnot and driveshaft alone was 1k+ so I'm probably 40k deep with more to come as I get the car painted and professionally buffed and ceramic coated so I can try to protect it for asking as I keep it and have it remain nice. Could've bought a showroom brand new car for the money I'm into it ffs.

Issues from me,
2018+ intake air box and tube on 2017 (wider tube at Maf) the pcv line coming off the side is running a hole through my coolant tank and I can't find a single solution to delete the line or any replacement tank solutions that fix the issue.

Where did you get this car from? It sounds like it was under water at some point in its life!! Lower east coast or gulf? Hurricane damage

 

[ORRadtech]

Since this thread has been revived I'm curious as to what the outcome was? I hope the OP sees and updates us.

 

[Outlaw]

Since this thread has been revived I'm curious as to what the outcome was? I hope the OP sees and updates us.

Sorry, just checked back in as I'm about to make another post about a diff issue lol, the end result was I got the mirror off and then used vice grips and a sawzall blade and held it to the bolt and used an impact to spin it against the blade and got it out, then the shop scammed me 2k so fuck caliber collision they are scamming pieces of shit

 

[Mach 307]

Ah you should’ve said it was Caliber Collision, sadly any “big” body shop like that sucks.

Sponsored