Lund 93 tune worth it?

[331GT]

I do have e85 available near me but it is my daily car. Im don’t know much info about e85. I don’t plan building a whole race car like I said it’s my daily driver. I know they make e85 flex fuel tunes. Im not to sure how it works and how it effects the motor. Im relatively new to all this

fair enough. i daily mine as well. E85 summer, regular pump/non e-85 during winter. i returned mine to stock this past winter and just went back to the E85 tune last month.

drive cycle as i was instructed is to account for varying amounts of ethanol in the tank at each fill up, as it can vary station to station. i was instructed for any e85 fill up to drive for at least 10-15 mins at low load/no WOT. i drive mine very conservatively for probably even longer than that, maybe it's overkill and im being overly cautious. there's a bit more regarding whether you're going from e85 to non-e85 and vice versa, but that's the gist. dont go balls out right away. i dont have a dedicated E85 tune but i believe you have to test each fill up to make sure it's a minimum ethanol content.

I am not sure of long term issues of E85 use. maybe someone else will chime in, or maybe you're not even concerned enough about it if you've made your mind up on not using E85 and you may disregard everything i wrote i can say this much though, cost of a tune if you may use E85 is definitely worth it IMO. if you have an auto, there's still a strong argument for getting a tune. I have been happy with the changes made to how the 10R80 drives after being tuned.

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[VIPR01]

No - same for Flex, E85R different story. I went down the “tune” path trying to convince myself it was worth it. Just save for a blower or upgraded suspension - maybe both. #seatofthepantsdyno is BS!

*Find someone in your area that has any 93 tune - get a demo. Don’t confuse exhaust notes with thinking your putting down legit RWHP. GoodLuck on the research.

 

[coz0502]

If it makes you happy, then that is all that matters. But to continue the discussion, there are 2 factors to look at. First, what did you spend on the ngauge and tune? Just going off of Lund numbers, the ngauge new was about $479 and a tune for a non-FI car is $300, so the combo probably cost you about $800. The question then becomes can you get more performance by spending $800 on something else. Suspension, tires, etc. Second, if you think you might want to continue modding in the future, you have to consider whether the mods you have paid for will be usable in your future setup. If you want to go FI, you won't be using the CAI you bought, so that money is partially lost if you sell the CAI. You'll also have to pay for a tune again whenever you get your other mods done.

It boils down to cost efficiency really. There's nothing wrong with getting an intake and a tune, but the money spent on those won't really help you in the future, depending on your setup. If you go FBO then obviously you keep the CAI and the cost isn't sunk.

Just my thoughts. If you think "I probably have a max of $x I want to spend modding", then it's worth it to plan these things out to avoid spending money you don't have to.

Don't disagree with your reply, everyone's situation is different. I specifically stayed away from cost because $800 might be cheap, expensive or just right for that level of performance increase. Everyone's opinion and pocketbooks are different.

I just wanted to give the guy who asked the questions my feedback. I assumed you had an automatic because of your comments around shift points. He stated he had a base 15 manual and I have a 16 PP manual so wanted to provide my perspective since our cars are both Gen2 manuals.

Mustangfreek gave no indication that he was looking at FI in the future or that his fun budget had limited funds, so I based my reply on his question without speculating on his future plans.

But I also agree about the future mods should be considered comment, no matter how much money you have most people don't like wasting money.

Again, all of these comments are made respectfully, not trying to win an internet argument

 

[Roush05]

Cool...

If you do some quick math cause I’m ocd numbers
nerd

Say a base supercharger kit , $7-8000 plus gets ya 200 ish hp
So roughly 22 hp per $1000

cai, Sct, na tune = 25+ hp is probably a safe number
for under a $1000

So I’d say it’s all part of “chasing hp” game and not a bad thing.

Yeah, numbers are fun. I'm not trying to be difficult at all, just following the conversation. I'm going to do some math as well and see if I arrive at the same conclusion. I'll use the cheapest kits that come with a canned tune. I'm on my phone so I'm just pulling numbers that I can easily find. Couldn't find a vortech or Paxton kit quickly, so I omitted those. I omitted turbos as well because there are just too many variables to consider.

Base procharger P1SC kit is about 7700 and claims a boost to "over 700 hp", so 240 hp over a stock 2021 gt. $31 hp per $1000

Roush stage 2 costs 8400 and gives 750 hp, so 290 hp, 34.5 hp per $1000

Whipple stage 1 costs 8200 and gives 725 hp, so 265 hp, so 32.3 hp per $1000

Jlt intake, x4, Lund tune cost about 1050. Not sure on the exact hp, but we can say that 25 rwhp is probably on the higher side. So about 24 hp per $1000

If there is a better intake, please correct me. But the FI options that I listed average out to 32.6 hp per $1000, or about 35 percent more hp per $1000.

Edit: I just realized I compared crank hp for FI to wheel hp for the intake. Let me fix that.

It's hard to find crank hp claims for intakes...PMAS tune required claims up to 20 whp from the pmas website. JLT says 24 whp from the install video on AM. I'm not sure exactly what the drive train loss would be. Anywhere from 10-15 percent probably. So if we take the higher number of 24 whp from JLT and add in 15 percent drive train loss, we get 27.6 hp. So about 26 hp per $1000.

Don't disagree with your reply, everyone's situation is different. I specifically stayed away from cost because $800 might be cheap, expensive or just right for that level of performance increase. Everyone's opinion and pocketbooks are different.

I just wanted to give the guy who asked the questions my feedback. I assumed you had an automatic because of your comments around shift points. He stated he had a base 15 manual and I have a 16 PP manual so wanted to provide my perspective since our cars are both Gen2 manuals.

Mustangfreek gave no indication that he was looking at FI in the future or that his fun budget had limited funds, so I based my reply on his question without speculating on his future plans.

But I also agree about the future mods should be considered comment, no matter how much money you have most people don't like wasting money.

Again, all of these comments are made respectfully, not trying to win an internet argument

Same here, I'm just talking lol.

I agree on the pocketbooks. That's why I mentioned having a budget and a plan to be most cost effective. If intake and tune is all that you'll want, then the rest of my comment is definitely irrelevant.

I am a manual as well. I made the comment about the auto shift points because they are by far the most attractive part of a tune if you haven't heavily modded your car. I meant that there is less value in the tune for him because he won't get that benefit.

Yeah, there was no indication of mods or budget. I'm more or less just rambling. Have some down time at work so I figured I'd explore the options just for conversation.

 

[VIPR01]

What you didn’t account for with FI is the look on the dude wearing a vineyard vines polo with the collar popped in his Porsche XYZ when you blow his doors off.

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

What you didn’t account for with FI is the look on the dude wearing a vineyard vines polo with the collar popped in his Porsche XYZ when you blow his doors off.

You can’t put a price on something like that.

 

[Hydra5.0]

fair enough. i daily mine as well. E85 summer, regular pump/non e-85 during winter. i returned mine to stock this past winter and just went back to the E85 tune last month.

drive cycle as i was instructed is to account for varying amounts of ethanol in the tank at each fill up, as it can vary station to station. i was instructed for any e85 fill up to drive for at least 10-15 mins at low load/no WOT. i drive mine very conservatively for probably even longer than that, maybe it's overkill and im being overly cautious. there's a bit more regarding whether you're going from e85 to non-e85 and vice versa, but that's the gist. dont go balls out right away. i dont have a dedicated E85 tune but i believe you have to test each fill up to make sure it's a minimum ethanol content.

I am not sure of long term issues of E85 use. maybe someone else will chime in, or maybe you're not even concerned enough about it if you've made your mind up on not using E85 and you may disregard everything i wrote i can say this much though, cost of a tune if you may use E85 is definitely worth it IMO. if you have an auto, there's still a strong argument for getting a tune. I have been happy with the changes made to how the 10R80 drives after being tuned.

Probably no e85 right now. But I’m definitely interested in learning about it. I need to do some research. But you think the Lund 93 tune will be worth it considering it changes how the 10r80 shifts?

 

[ChitownStang]

My biggest complaint is the jerky down shifts when coming to a stop light using paddles at low speed. Does a tune fix this is a question that I can't get an answer to.

 

[331GT]

Probably no e85 right now. But I’m definitely interested in learning about it. I need to do some research. But you think the Lund 93 tune will be worth it considering it changes how the 10r80 shifts?

while i like the changes my tune made to the trans, i dont know that i would personally spend $800 just for that. that's just me. i had the device for a previous car i used it on, so it wasnt a big deal to use it on the mustang.

 

[Mustangfreek]

Good info and chat fellas.

Unsure what I’m doing..lol..Just bored and spitballing.. I’d rather just bolt on a Vmp super and be done with it, but $$

 

[Hydra5.0]

while i like the changes my tune made to the trans, i dont know that i would personally spend $800 just for that. that's just me. i had the device for a previous car i used it on, so it wasnt a big deal to use it on the mustang.

Are there any cheaper tunes out there that are good quality

 

[Mustangfreek]

Pmas CAI intake
18’ manifold on 15’/stick car/3” catback
aed tune .. don’t have 93 or e85, so 92 Tune?

realistic hp number”

30rwhp, 40?

 

[Mustangfreek]

Are there any cheaper tunes out there that are good quality

well you got the device $3-400 and up , plus a tune is about the same $$

@Hydra5.0 so 7-800 minimum I see it from any combo , unless buying used tuner.

edit to add, why don’t the Sct, and others have files for CAI, seems dumb as most pair as the or the like with a CAI, and have to get a tune on top of the tuner price.., ;)

 

[Roush05]

Pmas CAI intake
18’ manifold on 15’/stick car/3” catback
aed tune .. don’t have 93 or e85, so 92 Tune?

realistic hp number”

30rwhp, 40?

From my quick googling, pmas tune required, I saw a 20 whp claim from pmas. Another Google says someone gained 23 whp peak with an 18 manifold swap. But another dyno sheet with everything else held constant on a 2015 gt only yielded 10 hp peak, although it was higher across most of the rpm band. Not sure about the catback, and the octane change depends on what the octane was prior to that. I would imagine you would pick up 40, maybe a little more depending on the fuel.

 

[inspecto]

M-9603-M8A Ford Performance Tune with tool and throttle body

been on mine for 2yrs with no problems you need the one for gen 3
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9452-M8

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