Lowering questions

[Hotlaprc]

I am ordering swift springs and installing them on my factory performance Pack shocks. Is there any other things I will need to buy to have the alignment done? Car has 20x10 front wheels and 20x11 rear wheels .... thanks

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[Chad11491]

depending on how much camber you want to run you might need camber plates. they're never a bad idea. I only run -1.8 all around right now so i don't need them. if you're going to road course or autocross you'll definitely want them.

 

[jasonstang]

I think depending how much camber you want. The lower you go, the more camber the suspension will have. Factory holes don't have much adjustment ability. You will need camber plates and adjustable rear linkages.

 

[BMR Tech]

Is the car your daily driver?

Do you road course the car?

If the car is NOT your daily driver - regardless of all other variables, I would recommend just enjoying the car as the camber is after lowering. It will perform nicely!

If you use the car for road course and Autocross duty, I would suggest a quality Caster Camber plate. There are some good ones out there, including our CP001 which have a high quality 3/4" bearing. I recommend using a brand with a 3/4" bearing as they are stronger, quieter and longer lasting.

If you use the car alot on the street, and you do not race the car often, I would highly suggest saving some cash and just using our FC003 Camber Bolts.

Here is a Link to our Camber Adjustment options:
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1495&superpro=0

We have a sale going right now, for 15% off and Free Shipping when using the code TG2016.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Enjoy!

 

[Bluemustang]

I'm a DD and I ended going with the BMR camber bolts. After lowering with the track pack springs and shocks, the factory didn't allow enough Camber adjustment to get back in spec. I ended up going with -1.6 up front and -2.0 in the rear. Handles like rails on the street.

 

[Hotlaprc]

I drive the car 2 to 3 times per week .... and will autocross 2 to 3 times per year. My drive to work is though some mountains and curves. I like to push the car ... but also do t wanna buy new tires as often for improper camber settings .... kinda want best of both worlds but don't wanna go too aggressive on camber

 

[Norm Peterson]

I drive the car 2 to 3 times per week .... and will autocross 2 to 3 times per year. My drive to work is though some mountains and curves. I like to push the car ... but also do t wanna buy new tires as often for improper camber settings .... kinda want best of both worlds but don't wanna go too aggressive on camber

Bad toe is much tougher on tires than bad camber by itself. However, changes in camber toward more negative cause the toes to change slightly (from 'in' to either 'less in', zero, or 'slightly out' - depending on how much the camber changed).

What would probably be best for you would be a set of springs with more stiffness and minimal advertised lowering, which you'd buy for the stiffness increase. Just my opinion, but 'minimal lowering' might be up to about 3/4" only, which in turn will limit the amount of negative camber change to half a degree or less. That you're pushing the car in the corners a bit more than most drivers in itself suggest that you should be running slightly more aggressive cambers than "factory preferred" (which is with average drivers in mind). Otherwise, you'll be beating up the outside shoulders faster instead.

It's the stiffness that gives you virtually all of the cornering benefits; the CG lowering doesn't do much until you're about to completely unload at least one of the inside tires in a corner, and you aren't going to get anywhere near that on the street.


Norm

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