Looking for recommendations on 2 piece rotors

[Cajunrice]

What are people using? I don't do track days but drive aggressive and looking for performance not comfort. Are the Steeda ones any good?

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[luc]

If you don’t track your car you don’t need the improvement, weight reduction and slightly better fade resistance , that 2 pieces rotor bring
Since you will never feel the improvement, even with aggressive street driving, it would only be cosmetic in your situation
Performance come from brake pads… way before anything else

 

[Jstang23]

If you don’t track your car you don’t need the improvement, weight reduction and slightly better fade resistance , that 2 pieces rotor bring
Since you will never feel the improvement, even with aggressive street driving, it would only be cosmetic in your situation
Performance come from brake pads… way before anything else

This^^

2 Piece rotors are like long tube headers, unless you're already full bolt on e85 and ready for those last few hp you won't really notice the difference. If you don't track your car 10 times a year in a high level then you will never notice the difference. You'll actually get a bit less bite because normally two pieces are drilled and slotted so less surface area. Just get some higher strength pads. I recommend the G-Loc GS-1 street pads!

 

[SheepDog]

What are people using? I don't do track days but drive aggressive and looking for performance not comfort. Are the Steeda ones any good?

I have the Kenny Bell 2 piece rotors.

In conjunction with forged wheels, I definitely felt the difference in steering response, and for sure the car stops faster when shedding 14lbs off of each corner. (I had the birdnest HP wheel before, which are heavy as shit) Reducing rotational unsprung mass does make a difference.

If you just want better stopping performance, upgrade the pads first. I have the Gloc A6 autocross pads (not on the car currently) and they bite really hard, and do not fade on the street. They do however, make slow stops a bit difficult to modulate, and they dust like crazy so take that into consideration. I haven't tried the GS-1's

 

[EFI]

I don't do track days but drive aggressive

I highly doubt even aggressive driving on the street comes anywhere near the abuse brakes see on a track. Even stock PP brakes are solid on track for most regular people, so on the street they are more than enough. Again I doubt you'll be going past their capabilities on the street without going to jail.

If you want a better feel or bite, get some more aggressive pads and maybe different fluid. But rotors are one of the last things that need attention, especially on a street car.

 

[SheepDog]

 

[tosha]

"if you are racing competitively" is a keyword)) I bet you that same car on same tires in same conditions will have exactly the same braking distance on either stock or 2 piece rotors. Steering feel, sure if you can tell the difference. Most people won't in a blind test.

For track and competition use is a different case. It's also totally ok to install them for looks btw))) I myself have a set of Girodiscs waiting for a warmer weather to get installed. But if it's just for street and better feel, stainless steel brake lines and more agressive pads will save quite a bit of money and give mostly the same performance.

 

[Andy13186]

Happy with my baer eradispeed+ drilled and slotted rotors, I have about 40k miles on them and havent had any problems and would do it again. I think the total amount of rotating mass lost from the full set was around 30 lbs. I like the fact that these brakes actually help with all aspects of performance due to their lighter weight : acceleration, handling and braking is all improved along with looks, and rotors are a wear item you will need to replace eventually anyway. Very easy to justify this mod imo.

 

[Bluemustang]

If you don’t track your car you don’t need the improvement, weight reduction and slightly better fade resistance , that 2 pieces rotor bring
Since you will never feel the improvement, even with aggressive street driving, it would only be cosmetic in your situation
Performance come from brake pads… way before anything else

And the tires do the stopping. Brake pads manage the heat.

 

[Prodigal]

I’ve been satisfied with my Steeda 2 piece rotors. Great weight savings, reasonable cost, awesome support from Steeda. Add some stainless steel brake lines while your doing the swap.

 

[Caleb]

I'm using Performance Friction (PFC) rotors, very happy with them. Lighter than stock but no noises or other compromises.

 

[TeeLew]

I'm using Performance Friction (PFC) rotors, very happy with them. Lighter than stock but no noises or other compromises.

By far the best option, even if the most expensive.

 

[TeeLew]

A ChatGPT level of understanding concerning unsprung mass and it's effect on the car isn't really what you need to make an informed decision.

It takes a certain amount of brake disc mass to be able to turn a large amount of kinetic energy into heat. The outer ring of the disc will always be iron and it will always be heavy. The portion of the disc which provides the weight savings is the bell. Changing that part to aluminum will save you about 7# per corner. This reduction in unsprung mass will help the tire follow the road a fraction better. The brake bell is concentrated to the center of the disc, so the reduction in rotational inertia will help the car accelerate just a fraction faster, but it is tiny...I mean absolutely next to nothing.

If you're racing, and lap time actually counts, then lighter discs might get you 0.01 or 0.02 seconds around a full-sized track and you'll be happy to do it. For track days, it's silly. The honest truth is you could go from stock cast iron to carbon and probably not be see it on a watch. You'd probably feel that something was different in the steering, but it's going to be difficult to turn that into actual lap time around the track.

PFC is the best. I think Girodisc is the next best and a lot more accessible. Everything else I'm aware of is Chinese. They'll work, but if you were to race them, you'd go through *a lot* of discs and hats

 

[spankybranch]

I'm using Performance Friction (PFC) rotors, very happy with them. Lighter than stock but no noises or other compromises.

I am on the fence between the PFC and Girodisc. Just intermediate HPDE use and starting to get into time-trial/time-attack format stuff on occasion.

Are you sourcing them through that UK distributor I see on here?

 

[SheepDog]

A ChatGPT level of understanding concerning unsprung mass and it's effect on the car isn't really what you need to make an informed decision.

It takes a certain amount of brake disc mass to be able to turn a large amount of kinetic energy into heat. The outer ring of the disc will always be iron and it will always be heavy. The portion of the disc which provides the weight savings is the bell. Changing that part to aluminum will save you about 7# per corner. This reduction in unsprung mass will help the tire follow the road a fraction better. The brake bell is concentrated to the center of the disc, so the reduction in rotational inertia will help the car accelerate just a fraction faster, but it is tiny...I mean absolutely next to nothing.

If you're racing, and lap time actually counts, then lighter discs might get you 0.01 or 0.02 seconds around a full-sized track and you'll be happy to do it. For track days, it's silly. The honest truth is you could go from stock cast iron to carbon and probably not be see it on a watch. You'd probably feel that something was different in the steering, but it's going to be difficult to turn that into actual lap time around the track.

PFC is the best. I think Girodisc is the next best and a lot more accessible. Everything else I'm aware of is Chinese. They'll work, but if you were to race them, you'd go through *a lot* of discs and hats

You don't think that the Baer products can stand up to racing conditions?

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