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Looking for a good 3 component door / A pillar speaker combo

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Looking for a good 3 component door / A pillar speaker kit that does not require fitment modifications. I have the BO 12 factory option in my 22 GT and I want to preserve the factory AMP. Minor wiring / soldering modifications are not a problem.
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Have you checked out Hertz 163.3? I just bought the kit and it will be installed as soon as the temperature gets over 40 degrees here in Chicago (summer tires). It comes highly recommended by a shop I trust.
 
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Have you checked out Hertz 163.3? I just bought the kit and it will be installed as soon as the temperature gets over 40 degrees here in Chicago (summer tires). It comes highly recommended by a shop I trust.
I have. Unfortunately I would have to find a place to mount the X-over box. My goal is to simply replace the speakers in the door with better speakers in a CLEAN way and maybe dynomat the door too. When I do sell the car someday, I dont want there to be evidence that the car was modified. Thanks for your response.
 

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I have Hertz DSK 165 speakers in the doors of my 2019 Bullitt which has the B&O stereo. I run the 6.5” door speaker off the factory amp. The tweeters in the A-pillar are fed by an Audio Control 300.4 amp with an Audio Control DM-608 DSP. They fit behind the factory A-pillar tweeter grills too, so it looks 100% factory.

I also use a PAC Audio amp interface with a Toslink adapter and fiber optic cable to feed the DSP and short custom made RcA cables from the DSP to the amp.
 

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Can you buy the Hertz speakers as pairs and install them without the crossover? Won 't the replacement speakers and dynomat be a clue that you modified the car?
 

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Can you buy the Hertz speakers as pairs and install them without the crossover? Won 't the replacement speakers and dynomat be a clue that you modified the car?
Perhaps but I am fine with mods that are not outwardly obvious unless the door panel is removed.
 

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You can install the Hertz 163.3 and use the stock a pillar and door panel. You don’t have to use the Hertz grills. The only way you’ll know is when you listen to the music you didn’t hear with the stock speakers.
 

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Hertz is a great option but I thought I'd give you a second opinion. US Amps Timbre 6&8 are great options. Im not sure if the tweeer fits in that small spot.
The tweter has a cool cover that has a palm tree in it. With a little practice I think any speaker can win a game of hide and seek.
US Amps is from the 90s that have recently been bought and put back on the scene. I personally never owned one of there amps but I did have 2 Orion hcca cheater amps in the 90s. Great nostalgia. US Amps followed shortly after Orion doing good in the competitions. My boy had a 5k Merlin on four 12s and that US pushed about 10k banging those things to the limit.
 

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I have. Unfortunately I would have to find a place to mount the X-over box. My goal is to simply replace the speakers in the door with better speakers in a CLEAN way and maybe dynomat the door too. When I do sell the car someday, I dont want there to be evidence that the car was modified. Thanks for your response.
165.3 + MP70.3 is excellent no need for Xover it's in your DSP already.

You can also plug in a high level mono amp in and add a decent 10 " sub for a huge lift.
 

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No one has mentioned yet that a one-for-one swap will not work well. The midrange and tweeters are wired in parallel with a built-in crossover on the tweeter. If you swap them out you'll raise the overall impedance of the 4 speakers and will lose amplitude (volume) and you won't have any protection for the tweeters. You could install a frequency limiting resistor (bass blocker) but that won't do anything for the change in impedance.
 

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No one has mentioned yet that a one-for-one swap will not work well. The midrange and tweeters are wired in parallel with a built-in crossover on the tweeter. If you swap them out you'll raise the overall impedance of the 4 speakers and will lose amplitude (volume) and you won't have any protection for the tweeters. You could install a frequency limiting resistor (bass blocker) but that won't do anything for the change in impedance.

Great information! In your opinion, what is the cleanest and most stock like method to replace the OEM speakers? Thanks very much!
 

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Great information! In your opinion, what is the cleanest and most stock like method to replace the OEM speakers? Thanks very much!
There’s many opinions on this and mine is “replace all of it”. I know this isn’t feasible or affordable by everyone but it’s honestly the best method.

That being said, the best way to improve stock sound is to treat the doors with sound deadener. You’ll significantly improve the midbass response which is what our cars really lack. You’ll significantly improve can buy a roll of any major brand’s 3-layer sound treatment for about $100 and installation is pretty easy, just time consuming. Plenty of YT videos on it.

So I’d start there and see how it sounds to you afterwards. If you still want more then it’s time to start saving for a system. I’ve yet to hear anyone say they were truly impressed by just a speaker swap on the B&O system.
 
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Yes, I was planning to do some sound deadening while I was in the door. Any thoughts with the PowerBase mustang 6.5" speakers? They appear to be an improvement to stock AND fit perfectly into the OEM mounting holes.
 

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Yes, I was planning to do some sound deadening while I was in the door. Any thoughts with the PowerBase mustang 6.5" speakers? They appear to be an improvement to stock AND fit perfectly into the OEM mounting holes.
I've not heard anything bad about them, but that's as far as I can speak to them. You can replace the 6.5s with any brand, but it doesn't change the signal being sent to them. The way system sounds is dependent on the tuning just as much as the quality of the speakers. If you feed good speakers a garbage signal, you'll get garbage output and the OEM B&O system is tuned for garbage speakers.
 

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I've not heard anything bad about them, but that's as far as I can speak to them. You can replace the 6.5s with any brand, but it doesn't change the signal being sent to them. The way system sounds is dependent on the tuning just as much as the quality of the speakers. If you feed good speakers a garbage signal, you'll get garbage output and the OEM B&O system is tuned for garbage speakers.
I don't understand the comment that the B&O is tuned for garbage speakers. I've replaced my 3.5" door speakers and A pillar tweeters on the B&O system and I'm very pleased with how it sounds now. I also swapped out the Subwoofer in the trunk box, which fixes the bottom end. The B&O speakers do have some issues. But, understanding the system limitations and careful selection of replacement speakers will lead to a pleasing outcome. A competition system it is not, nor would I want that in my car. Got to protect your hearing. I also didn't spend an arm and a leg, didn't rip out the dash and interior just to get slightly better sound. I have several threads on what I did and why. Sound quality is subjective, and I always thought I had a good ear. In my early years as an engineer, I designed and built my own speaker systems and amplifiers. I've built home HiFi subwoofers before the craze ever took off. I still have and use one in my home and it will rattle every door and window in the house.
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