Keyless entry not working on passenger side

TexasRebel

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dealership checked out my car's passenger handle and said all was fine. Did talk to me about battery saving feature and that the computer systems of the car do drain the car slowly. He took one look at the fact that my car is just about 1 year old with 3677 miles and said that I should hook up a battery charger with auto float mode to it. He said that our car has the ability to stop the alternator from charging the battery and spin freely/ disengage a clutch as another fuel saving method. As long as the car has enough juice to run the car, the alternator is disengaged. When it gets low, it will reengage and charge the battery again. He did say that because of this , it is not uncommon for the battery to fail sooner.

moral of the story, drive your car more often or take measures to keep the battery above 12 volts.
No need to disengage the shaft on an alternator from the pulley. Easier to just remove the voltage from the field coil.





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Fly2High

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No need to disengage the shaft on an alternator from the pulley. Easier to just remove the voltage from the field coil.
I have no idea how it is done all I now is that it is not like what I am use to nor have I ever heard before now about reducing engine drag in this fashion.
 

pyrophilus

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yes. I do not have a dash cam but I do have a GPS module that can drain down a car battery.

I am thinking this is a car battery issue. Below a certain voltage it doesn't work on the passenger side


Please when you have the passenger side not working, record what the voltage of the battery when everything is off.
I have NOTHING plugged/wired into my '19 GT. Only after reading this thread, I noticed that my passenger side doesn't work. Picked up used on Dec 8th. Picked it up with wife. I opened passenger side door for her, and door handles were working fine unlocking car.

After reading this thread 1 week ago, I noticed my passenger side door handle is not responsive.

A few days later, all of sudden I noticed that the passenger door handle is locking/unlocking fine.

I just ran outside and put voltage tester on the posts of my battery (pass door handle still not locking/unlocking), it registered 12.11 volts. I think that, low, right??? Shouldn't be at LEAST 12.40???

I hooked up a harbor freight trickle charger to the battery, and i immediately put voltage tester on the batt (with trickle charger connected). It is registering 12.17 V.

I will leave it plugged in overnight (9pm right now). Will check 12 hours later, I will try pass door handle first (driver's side works just fine), and working or not, will do another check on the battery voltage.
 

pyrophilus

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So when I checked voltage it at 9pm, 12.11 V
Connected harbor freight trickle charger.
10pm, 12.03 V!
I realized it is going to rain overnight (car outside), so I went outside to disconnect, but I checked voltage. It is 11:32 pm, and batt voltage was now up to 12.31V.

Pass. door handle still not unlocking car when I grab handle. I tucked extension cable plug inside engine bay, and decided to leave it plugged in overnight.
 
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Rod27

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  • Thread starter
  • Thread Starter
  • #80
For anybody who has the this problem and have a Dash Cam hardwired, when you shut your engine off does the car shut off everything within 30secs to 1 minute, vs the regular 10 minutes the car would stay on after the engine has been stopped?
 

pyrophilus

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This morning I went outside, before getting in the car, thought, maybe...

Went to passenger side and touch the door handle... it unlocks!!!! I touch the ribbed part and it LOCKS!!

I immediately put voltmeter on the battery post. It registers 12.06V, so I am not sure if it is the battery?

The handle continued working. I drove to autozone and asked them to test batt. He said it's perfectly fine, but it's just very low and needs a charge (71%).

I come home, try the handle, it's still working.

Just to test it, I try locking unlocking repeatedly. After 6 consecutive lock/unlock using the handle touch (on passenger side), the door knob went dead again.

I checked voltage and the battery still registered 12.06V.

I am now pointing myself to a possibility of water entering the door?

The driver's side window used to sporadically not go back up, but after blowing out the wet plug and putting on dielectric grease, the driver side window problem is totally fixed.
 

rmxdavid

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This morning I went outside, before getting in the car, thought, maybe...

Went to passenger side and touch the door handle... it unlocks!!!! I touch the ribbed part and it LOCKS!!

I immediately put voltmeter on the battery post. It registers 12.06V, so I am not sure if it is the battery?

The handle continued working. I drove to autozone and asked them to test batt. He said it's perfectly fine, but it's just very low and needs a charge (71%).

I come home, try the handle, it's still working.

Just to test it, I try locking unlocking repeatedly. After 6 consecutive lock/unlock using the handle touch (on passenger side), the door knob went dead again.

I checked voltage and the battery still registered 12.06V.

I am now pointing myself to a possibility of water entering the door?

The driver's side window used to sporadically not go back up, but after blowing out the wet plug and putting on dielectric grease, the driver side window problem is totally fixed.
Have the same problem and a very interesting post. I have con
This morning I went outside, before getting in the car, thought, maybe...

Went to passenger side and touch the door handle... it unlocks!!!! I touch the ribbed part and it LOCKS!!

I immediately put voltmeter on the battery post. It registers 12.06V, so I am not sure if it is the battery?

The handle continued working. I drove to autozone and asked them to test batt. He said it's perfectly fine, but it's just very low and needs a charge (71%).

I come home, try the handle, it's still working.

Just to test it, I try locking unlocking repeatedly. After 6 consecutive lock/unlock using the handle touch (on passenger side), the door knob went dead again.

I checked voltage and the battery still registered 12.06V.

I am now pointing myself to a possibility of water entering the door?

The driver's side window used to sporadically not go back up, but after blowing out the wet plug and putting on dielectric grease, the driver side window problem is totally fixed.
I had the same problem and have read the entire thread. To support what Fly2High mentioned, I have no doubt that this problem is related to a low battery condition. The problem will be more noticeable for those that either drive very little (possibly due to Covid and working from home) or the car is not a daily driver. In my case, it's double trouble as I am working from home and given the car is a daily driver, it has been sitting outside in 20-25 degree weather for weeks. When I do drive, my commute to work is 15 minutes.

As a side note, just last Thurs. I had my car into the dealer for warranty work on my rear windows not rolling all the way up (Convertible) and a front strut that was making noise and later that evening (After the service dept. was closed) I went to pick my car up around 6pm and my car would not start. Ironically, I had just fully charged the battery the prior Sun. night so I had a good feel that the battery was going bad. I had left the car at the dealer and 1st thing Fri. morning the dealer pulled the car in and checked the battery and determined it had 2 bad cells.

Conclusion:
1.) These cars have battery drain - How much drain is up for debate but my answer is more than normal.
2.) If you don't drive daily and live in an area where temps get down well below freezing at night, you are going to have more problems then fair weather owners.
3.) Not convinced the battery is sized right for the car. I am not an expert just seems 590 cranking amps which I know is not related to running the electronics and battery drain is a small battery for a V8 that hold 10qts of oil and has more electronics then the average car.
4.) During cold weather and when the car is sitting for long periods of time or both, the battery is going to have be either trickle or slow charged.

BTW - Passenger door keyless entry would not work (Driver side and Trunk did) but car started fine at 11.99 volts. Drove the car for approx. 30 minutes pulled back in the driveway and passenger door worked fine. I should have taken another reading but too cold outside. A good charged battery IMO should be around 12.3 - 12.6v. I believe that anything around 12v or less, strange things like this are going to happen.

Also last thing for those with the FordPass. Once you get the notification that the car is in battery save mode or shutting down, more than likely, the car is not going to start period. Lastly being it is Winter, I think it's time to honestly man up and put my car in the garage and park my Wife's car outside :)
 

pyrophilus

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Hey, actually it is how the keyless entry works. Or at least, I am having same trouble as you so don't feel too low. You are not alone.

Anyways, that was also same logic for two of my friends who own 2015 and 2017 mustangs. You cannot use keyless entry to passenger side, and my guess is that you, as a driver, will never need to open passenger side first before opening the driver's side. I believe that the only time when the keyless entry "works" on the passenger side is only if driver's side is open.

I leased a 2015 EB and the passenger side door handle locked/unlocked from touch just fine.
I then leased a 2017 EB and passenger side door handle also worked fine to lock and unlock the car.

My 2019 is having thos problem, so I don't think the passenger side door handle not responding is by design.

My brother in law's 2015 F150 lariat also has no problem on any of the door handles responding to touch.

My dealer loaned me, fusion, escape, and explorers (2016 through 2020 models), and none of them had a thing where the passenger side door handle did not respond to touch to lock/unlock either. I think this is a mustang-only problem, to just some mustangs.
 

Torched10

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I leased a 2015 EB and the passenger side door handle locked/unlocked from touch just fine.
I then leased a 2017 EB and passenger side door handle also worked fine to lock and unlock the car.

My 2019 is having thos problem, so I don't think the passenger side door handle not responding is by design.

My brother in law's 2015 F150 lariat also has no problem on any of the door handles responding to touch.

My dealer loaned me, fusion, escape, and explorers (2016 through 2020 models), and none of them had a thing where the passenger side door handle did not respond to touch to lock/unlock either. I think this is a mustang-only problem, to just some mustangs.
I think I recently read a post that when closing the door adcshutting it down,click the fob twice and it shuts off many of the drain items like the key fob searcher.coukd be wrong
 

pyrophilus

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I think I recently read a post that when closing the door adcshutting it down,click the fob twice and it shuts off many of the drain items like the key fob searcher.coukd be wrong
I read that too, double lock on remote puts car to deep sleep mode. I have tried both (single or double click to lock), when door knob wasn't responsive, and it didn't revive it.

I have also tried to double click or single click lock when the handle was responsive and it didn't make the handle go non-responsive.

I am really at a loss. It's at the dealer right now, I am hoping they can figure something out.
 

pyrophilus

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I think the problem is fixed.

I brought the car into the dealership for a couple of warranty items, and I asked them to look at:

1. passenger side door handle not locking/unlocking.
2. driver's easy entry/exit not returning the seatback to the original position.

The dealership tests couple of things for all cars dropped off and these include alignment and battery health.

The last page of the scanned pdf has the report where the battery failed the test.
2 days before I dropped the car off at the dealer, I took it to Autozone and they attached their battery tester. The person told me that the battery is healthy, just low on charge (70%).

I checked the standing voltage before dropping it off at the dealer, and the resting voltage of the battery was 12.1 to 12.3 volts at the highest.

The dealer service said that they replaced the battery under warranty. The service writer said that the technician told him that if the battery falls below 70% some of the electrical components do not work correctly. Apparently, my old battery was less than 50%.

I picked up the vehicle, and both the easy entry and the passenger-side door handle touch lock/unlock are working fine. I put a voltmeter on the battery and it showed 12.54V.
 

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rmxdavid

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I think the problem is fixed.

I brought the car into the dealership for a couple of warranty items, and I asked them to look at:

1. passenger side door handle not locking/unlocking.
2. driver's easy entry/exit not returning the seatback to the original position.

The dealership tests couple of things for all cars dropped off and these include alignment and battery health.

The last page of the scanned pdf has the report where the battery failed the test.
2 days before I dropped the car off at the dealer, I took it to Autozone and they attached their battery tester. The person told me that the battery is healthy, just low on charge (70%).

I checked the standing voltage before dropping it off at the dealer, and the resting voltage of the battery was 12.1 to 12.3 volts at the highest.

The dealer service said that they replaced the battery under warranty. The service writer said that the technician told him that if the battery falls below 70% some of the electrical components do not work correctly. Apparently, my old battery was less than 50%.

I picked up the vehicle, and both the easy entry and the passenger-side door handle touch lock/unlock are working fine. I put a voltmeter on the battery and it showed 12.54V.
Bingo, thanks for confirming.
 

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